JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS lating a more detailed catalogue it is noticed that approximately the same number can be found among the oeabiatce, concluding with several of the Compositce and a few examples from miscellaneous families. Arranged in the previous sequence it is noted, as with the spices, t•hat certain groupings with dominant characteristics emerge and within these room can be found for the miscellaneous items. A consideration of this listing would seem to indicate that the fundamental of a typical culinary "Herbal" note is most likely to be found in a balance between the carvone and anethole bearing plants, for instance, in sage-thyme and dill- coriander. In so far as the synthetics are con- cerned, and after reviewing the list of some seventy items which possess green-leaf and herbaceous odours, these would appear to be more suitable for the construction of folial, verdure and fern aromas or, to put it briefly, as with the oakmoss and lichen group, more satisfactory results can be obtained from a few. simple permutations upon the essen- tial oils from some of the plants listed above, rather than elaboration from the synthetic aromatics. THE AMBER FRAGRANCE Most perfumers have their own special interpretations of the indis- pensable Ambreine note and it is interesting to observe 'just how many of the adjuvant fundamentals con- tribute to its tonal make-up. For 200 instance, we find the resinous l•ab- danura Crete, the rooty vetivert and the woody santal and cedar esters, balsamic vanillas, spicy patch- ouli, and the warmth of clary sage, as well as the musky •adence of angelica and ambrette oils, the fragrant top-notes from the rue aldehydes and ketones, and finally the floral sweetness of rose, iris and jasmin. From such a wealth contributed by the natural materials, assistance from synthetic products only seems justified when economical versions have to be considered and, in this direction, isoamyl and isobutyl cin- hamares, supported by the nitro musks, are probably the most suit- able diluents. THE AROMA OF HONEY This note is one of the most useful in the gamut of the adjuvants and, moreover, comparatively simple in ::: construction, being based upon vari- ous combinations of the aliphatic, aromatic and woody alcohol phenyl- acetates plus a trace of diacetin. Such compounds are almost uni-): versal sweeteners and impart depth 5 body and tenacity to every base in which they are incorporated, but probably the outstanding quality::': observed•(after the sweetness) is the ability to enfold, subdue and mellow the "medicated" after-odour found : with so many of the synthetic? aromatic chemicals of the ether?!i:i , phenone and ketone class. If these honey bases contain? phenylacetic acid and some methyl quinoline, the note begins

•":•/•½edome more pomade-like and waxy, :•iCut the civetal backnote, although at •,•'.ifirSt not particularly prominent, has }? • t•ndency to become very obtrusive. •}•}•??.•:: THE ALDEHYDIC NOTES with the xtive, •}?ffimers have evolved their own aliphatic aldehyde complexes purpose or individuM tonality, and work in this Mthin the past decade has :been made e•ier by the purity and mbility of the materials which become available. ß The normal rance cannot, of be extended, but interesting •:Sauxiliaries have occasionally }?eared for instance, the di-methyl :•)½?:and di-ethyl acetals of octy], decyl, ?•:undecylenic, cinnamic and amyI- •. cmnamic aldehydes and citral, which •:'•(suggest many probable uses not •.•:Oossible with the aldehydes them- ?Selves. Furthermore, there are Mso •.' •a number of newer a•yl and cyclo- :?•:.•hexanol esters whch a•ord consider- •?able support to the earlier bases of Cthe fruity pseudo-aldehydes. .:• The incidence of some of the above- :/mentioned lemon and orange acetals, /decyl acetate and methyl undecylen- ate and also the alpha and beta nerol : esters, enable considerable improve- ß 'ments to be effected upon certain of the eau-de-colo•e formulations re- :• sulting in a marked increase of the freshening facton This is also observed with the advent of the nardenised versions of PERFUMES terpeneless oils, from which also emerge floral tones of unsuspected sweetness, delicacy and purity.' Because of the greater importance of the Citrus odour in toilet waters, this item has been segregated from the following section. THE FRUITY GAMUT It is remarked, in the metamor- phosis of blossom fragrances to the finality of fruit odours, that the fruity gamut passes through the stages of unripe, ripe, over-ripe and even rotten and, furthermore, the size and texture of the fruit itself is important enough to receive some consideration. For instance, the large and hard fruits which contain ¾ery little juice •--such as apples and pears, may be contrasted with the smaller and softer berries and cur- rants, and also with lemons, limes, -grapefruit and oranges--all of which yield a considerable amount of fragrant juice when subjected to light pressure. The fruity nuance is of consider- able importance when one comes to give the final touches to the simula- tion of blossom fragrances and particularly in modern fantasy com- positions, but it is not always easy to klecide upon the most suitable fruity inflection to be employed. 'I:he term "fruity" is in fact too general to be of practical utility and guidance for specific purposes. It is observed, as with the spices and herbals, that various complementary and supporting groupings are pos- sible, which are more effective than 201