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j. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 42, 45-57 (January/February 1991) Development of safety hair colorants using silver-zeolite as oxidative catalyst YURI OKANO, HITOSHI MASAKI, SUMI MINESHITA, MASASHI FUJII, KEN-ICHI SAKON, and KAZUSHIGE SUZUKI, Noevir Co. Ltd., Shiga Central Research Laboratory, Japan. Received October 8, 1990. Presented at the 16th IFSCC Congress, New York, October 1990. Synopsis The most important hair colorants on the market, because of their effective coloring, are the oxidation dyes. They consist of primary intermediates, oxidants, and couplers. In most cases, hydrogen peroxide is em- ployed as the oxidant, but it can cause damage to hair. Therefore, there has been much hope of finding a better and safer hair colorant. In our studies, we have found a hair colorant in which the primary interme- diates are oxidized in the presence of silver ions used as a catalyst without hydrogen peroxide. In order to dye hair, oxidation of the intermediates must take place within the hair. If the oxidative reaction is completed outside of the hair strand, the enlarged dye molecules will not diffuse within the hair strand. If the reaction proceeds slowly, it is too time-consuming for hair coloring. We have succeeded in controlling the elution rate of silver ion catalyzing the oxidation reaction by holding it within the zeolite. By controlling the pH, the contents of the silver-zeolite, and the composition of the solvent, the elution rate can be best controlled for dyeing the hair. Furthermore, tannin contained in plant extracts has been used as the coupler for increasing safety. The hair coloring products using silver-zeolite as an oxidation catalyst and the plant extracts as a coupler source, were shown to be safer in the Ames mutagenicity tests that we have conducted. We have also found less damage by microscopy than with conventional hair dyes using hydrogen peroxide. INTRODUCTION The coloring of hair has been one of the most important acts of adornment since the origins of man. The usual reasons for coloring the hair are the following: to change the natural color, to change the color of the hair temporarily, or to hide or color the gray hairs that begin to appear with age. In Japan hair colorants for gray hair have been a necessity of life for centuries. Modern systems of hair coloring may be divided into three categories: temporary col- oring, semi-permanent coloring, and permanent coloring, which consists of so-called oxidative dyes. As the name indicates, permanent coloring provides effectively perma- nent coloration and it is the most important hair colorant on the market. 45