ASSESSMENT OF SKIN CARE PRODUCTS 17 (17) (18) (19) (20) (21) (22) (23) (24) (25) (26) (27) (28) (29) (30) (31) (32) (33) (34) (35) H. Tagami, Electrical measurement of the water contents of skin surface, Cosmet. Toiletr., 97, 39-47 (1982). H. Tronnier, Differenzierte Feuchtigkeitsmessungen an der menschlichen Haut, •rztl. Kosmetol., 10, 291-308 (1980). H. Tronnier, Dermatologisch-pharmakologische Methoden zur Priifung kosmetischer Priiparate und Grundstoffe, ,i•rztl. Kosmetol., 10, 361-387 (1980). H. Tronnier, Vergleichende Messungen der Hornschicht-Hydration, Fette, SeiJ•n, Anstrichmittel, 83, 442-449 (1981). H. Tronnier, Der Hydratationszustand der Haut, J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 32, 175-192 (1981). V. Wienert, G. Hegner, and H. Sick, Ein Verfahren zur Bestimmung des relativen Wassergehaltes des Stratum Corneum der menschlichen Haut, Arch. Dermatol. Res., 270, 67-75 (1981). G. Hegner, V. Wienert, H. Sick, and W. Gahlen, Hautfeuchtigkeit und Lebensalter, alters- und geschlechtsbedingte Topographie der Hautfeuchtigkeit, Fortschr. Med., 99, 486-490 (1981). V. Wienert and A. Keilhauer, Der EinfluB von Harnstoff auf den Hydratationsgrad des Stratum Corneum der menschlichen Haut, Akt. Derm., 7, 20-21 (1981). G. Padberg, Modifizierte Methylenblau-Methode zur Priifung des Rauhigkeitsgrades der Horn- schicht, J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 20, 719-728 (1969). U. Hoppe, R. Lunderstiidt, and G. Sauermann, Quantitative Analyse der Hautoberfliiche mit Hilfe der digitalen Signalverarbeitung, Arztl. Kosmetol., 16, 13-37 (1986). U. Hoestermann, Dissertation, University of Munich (1986). T. H. Cook, T. J. Craft, R. L. Brunelle, F. Norris, and W. A. Griffin, Quantification of the skin's topography by skin profilometry, Int. J. Cosmet. Sci., 4, 195-205 (1982). U. Hoppe, Topologie der Hautoberfliiche, J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 30, 213-239 (1979). U. Hoppe and G. Sauermann, Quantitative analysis of the skin's surface by means of digital signal processing, J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 36, 105 (1985). P. Corcuff, J. de Rigal, and J. L. Leveque, Image analysis of the cutaneous microrelief, Bioeng. Skin, 4, 16-31 (1982). G. E. Nilsson, Measurement of water exchange through skin, Med. Biol. Eng. Comput., 15, 209-218 (1977). J. Pinnagoda, R. A. Tupker, T. Agner, and J. Serup, Guidelines for transepidermal water loss (TEWL) measurement, Contact Dermatitis, 22, 164-178 (1990). S. Dikstein, A. Hartzshtark, R. Bercovici, and W. Courage, Verteilung von Talgspiegelmessungen bei gesunden erwachsenen Frauen, Arztl. Kosmetol., 15, 41-44 (1985). S. Dikstein, A. Zlotogorski, E. Avriel, M. Katz, and M. Harms, Comparison of the sebumeter and the lipometre, Bioeng. Skin, 3, 197-207 (1987). APPENDIX I Cream "N" (oil-in-water-emulsion) Cream "K" (water-in-oil-emulsion) Ingredients: Ingredients: Water Water Decyl oleate Paraffin oil Mineral oil Petrolatum Cetearyl isononanoate Glycerin Cetearyl alcohol Lanolin alcohol Polyglyceryl-2-PEG-4 stearate Ceresin Glycerin Octyldodecanol Ceteareth- 12- Decyl oleate Hydrolyzed elastin Magnesium/aluminum stearates Allantoin Magnesium sulfate Fragrance Citric acid Phenoxyethanol Fragrance Methylparaben Propylparaben Methyldibromo glutaronitrile

18 JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS APPENDIX II Questionnaire Part 1 Name: 1. a) Skin Type: b) Sensitivity: Age: dry normal mixed greasy o o o o high normal none O O O 2. a) Product used for daily care b) Product used for night care c) Do you use make up ? yes no O O 3. Type of product used for face cleaning Part 2 4) Spreadability on skin: 5) Penetration into skin: 6) Richness of the cream: 7) Skin afterfeel: very good very bad o o o o o very good very bad o o o o o too rich well balanced poor o o o positive airrib. negative artrib. o soft o dry o smoolh o rough o relaxed o dull o comfortahle o greasy o •ell-groomed o stick3 o onpleasant 8 a} I:ragrancc likes: •er3 good •ery bad O O O O O b) Fragrance intensi• it: *cry' good • cry bad O O O O O 9 a} Skin tolerance: es 0 no O b) Change of skin conditiou: positive unchanged negative O O O c) Change of surface: positive tinchanged negative O O O I0) Starting and finishing dates: ........................................ 11) Frequence of dail) use: ........................................ 12) Additional likes and dislikes: ........................................ APPENDIX III LIST OF TASK FORCE MEMBERS Dr. Achim Ansmann, Henkel KGaA, Henkelstr. 67, 40191 Dfisseldorf Stephan Bielfeldt, Creachem GmbH, Max-Planck-Str. 6, 37603 Holzminden Dr. Doris Billek, Wisplerstr. 2, 22609 Hamburg Dr. Rudolf Bimczok, Wella AG, Berliner Allee 65, 64274 Darmstadt Dr. Hansjfirgen Driller, Marbert GmbH, Bonner Str. 155, 40589 Dfisseldorf Dr. Gero Feistkorn, Wella AG, Berliner Allee 65, 64274 Darmstadt Dr. Friedrich Heinze, Jade Cosmetic, Hanauer Landstrage 523, 60386 Frankfurt am Main Dr. Rudolf Hfittinger, Kiippersheide 8, 45133 Essen Dr. Bernd Komp, Betrix Cosmetic GmbH, Frankfurter Str. 151, 63268 Dreieich Dr. Hans LautenschNger, Chem. Fabr. Rhenus, Erkelenzer Str. 36, 41179 M6nchengladbach Marie-Christine Leneveu-Duchemin, Beiersdorf AG, Unnastr. 48, 20253 Hamburg Prof. Dr. Lothar Motitschke, Marbert GmbH, Bonner Str. 155, 40589 Dfisseldorf Lothar Pohl, MV Kosmetik GmbH, Donatusstr. 112, 50259 Pulheim