434 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE Fingernails (see also Nail enamels) mechanical properties of, 198 moisture content of, 198 Foundations color rendering powder and base make-up, 326 zirconia-coated spherical complex silica, application to, 198 Fragrances (see also Odors) antibacterial and antioxidant activity of fragrance materials, 95 Frictional measurements and cationic polymers on hair, 51 Gels (see also Emulsions) ointments containing Aloe vera, 255 SLN, incorporation into, 313 Gloss and cationic polymers on h•tir, 51 Glycerin in alleviating skin dryness and irritation, 86 effect on short-term measurement of skin moisturization, 13, 79 Hair bending properties of, 330, 355 cationic polymer adsorption onto, 51 cationic polymer deposition on, 119 coconut and mineral oils, penetration into, 169 color, 103 cross section, 103, 297 diameter, 103, 169, 355 dichromatic reflection model in, 242 elements in, 297 frictional measurements of, 51 gloss, 51 gray vs black, 103 growing activity and procyanidins, 253 luster, measurement of, 237 mechanical extension of, 185 opacity, 51 penetration pathways into, 265 restructuring by protein derivatives, 332 root, elemental distributions within, 297 silicone oil deposition on, 131 straightening, 196 swelling, effects of oil penetration on, 169 tensile strength of, 103 transverse swelling of, 103 treatments, 169, 355 type, in hairspray analysis, 281 variations along fibers, 297 virgin segment, elemental distributions within, 297 wet combing force of, 103 Hair care fixative, 337 products, 68 shampoo application, foaming, and rinsing, 71 Hair cuticle abrasion of, 103 cell surface, 185 cell membrane complex (CMC), 185 movement of, 185 and perming and conditioning, 185 scale structure of, 185 tryptophan damage on, 103 Hair damage (see also Hair cuticle) and bleaching, 332 and grooming, 330 photodamage, ambient dependent, 334 and relaxing, 332 UV, on natural gray hair, 103 and weathering, 330 Hair dyes photoprotection by, 377 Hairspray dynamic analysis of, 281 solvent composition in, 281 Hormones calciotropic, and the skin, 146 Lipid(s) nanotubes as skin penetration modulators, 344 pathlength in stratum corneum, 339 solid lipid nanoparticles (SLN), occlusive properties of, 313 Melanin and sun exposure, 91 up regulation by UVB exposure, 327 Microscopy fluorescent, in examination of polymer deposition on hair, 119 in vivo confocal, in skin optics, 91 SEM, in study of polymer film on hair surface, 337 TEM, to study penetration pathways in hair fiber, 265 Moisturizers (see also Skin moisturization) in alleviating dryness and irritation, 86 Mosquito repellency new method for testing, 417 Nail enamels technique for preventing pigment sedimentation in, 196 Occlusion effect of topicals in an SLN carrier system, 313 Odor(s) (see also Fragrances) control, application of aroma formation mechanism of plants to, 197 products to prevent body odor in the aged, 326

SUBJECT INDEX 435 Oils coconut, penetration into human hair fibers, 169 mineral, penetration into human hair fibers, 169 silicone, deposition from shampoo, 131 Opacity and cationic polymer on hair, 51 Oral hygiene products determination of fluorine and sodium monofluorophosphate in, 399 Personal cleansing products antibacterial substantivity of, 369 Photoprotection (see also Sunscreens) by hair dyes, 377 of natural gray hair, 103 UVA protection, 412 Photostability of sunscreens, 412 of UV filters, 1 Physical appearance influence on others, 325 Pigment(s) in color cosmetics, 419 pearl, in "color rendering powder," 326 Polymers (see also Cationic polymers Polymer deposition) analysis by pyrolysis-gas chromatography, 197 effects of fluorescent dye on, 119 and ester technology, 346 in hairspray, 281 style memorizing for hair fixative, 337 Polymer deposition (see also Cationic polymers Polymers) at different tress locations, 119 effect of repeated washings on, 119 influence of viscosity on, 119 qualitative examination of', via fluorescent microscopy, 119 of silicone oil from shampoo, 131 Preservatives antioxidants, 423 aroma chemicals, 423 formulating preservative-free cosmetics, 423 Protein derivatives and hair restructuring, 332 Psychological perspectives emotional change by use of skin care products, 252 facial attractiveness, 251 Raw materials structure/activity relationship in, 151 Research and development guiding principles for, 196 Retinol in anti-cellulite product, 199 degradation in cosmetic products, 77 Ruscogenine in anti-cellulite product, 199 Sebum composition of, 211,236 DSC studies of, 211 models, 211 Shampoo application, 71 foaming, 71 rinsing, 71 silicone oil deposition from, 131 Silicone(s) in cosmetic applications, 196 elastomers, 140 oil, deposition from shampoo, 131 vehicles for Aloe vera, 255 Skin (see also Stratum corneum) adsorption of cationic polymers onto, 51 age-related changes of, 252 bioconversion of vitamin E acetate into vitamin E in, 155 bisphenol A permeation of, 251 and calciotropic hormones, 146 dermis, 199 diffusion, 82 dryness, 23, 86 electrical properties of, 13, 23, 79 epidermis, 91 flowmetry of perfusion of, 199 grades, 23 hypodermis, 199 infant, 341 irritancy, 84 macrorelief of', 199 mechanical characteristics of, 199 moisturization (hydration), 13, 23, 79 optics, 91 penetration enhancement in, 84 penetration modulators, 344 permeation and metabolism of o•-tocopherol and o•-tocopheryl acetate, 35, 235 physical properties of, 195 thickness, 391 tone, impact on color generated by effect pigments, 419 treatment, 225 Skin care products creams to reduce erythema, scaling, itching, 86 efficacy test of, 195 emotional change by use of, 252 technology, 68 lotion based on wine component, 197 release systems for applications of, 350 Skin hydration. See Skin moisturization