208 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE Keynote Award Lecture Sponsored by Ruger Chemical Corporation ADDRESSING THE NEEDS OF ETHNIC SKIN Victoria Holloway, MD, MPH The L'Oreal Institute for Ethnic Hair and Skin Research Chicago, IL The United States is becoming increasingly ethnically diverse, and more reflective of the world's population. As an industry, we must be responsive to the skincare needs and desires of this varied group. In order to do so, we must be aware not only of the cultural aspects of skincare, but also of the fundamental differences in structure and function noted in comparing the skin of people from different racial backgrounds. These differences will be reviewed. Though some of these findings are of unclear significance, others result in conditions and diseases that affect ethnic populations uniquely or disproportionately. These conditions will be discussed. It is important for the cosmetic chemist to be familiar with the specific properties of ethnic skin and the particular needs and concerns of diverse populations so that appropriate products can be formulated.

2003 ANNUAL SCIENTIFIC MEETING THE IMPACT OF COSMETIC DERMATOLOGY ON SKIN CARE AND COSMETICS Zoe Diana Draelos, M.D. Dermatology Consulting Services, 2444 North Main Street, High Point, NC 27262 Introduction 209 There are several cosmetic dermatologic procedures that may impact the approach the cosmetic chemist takes to product formulation, as well as creating new product opportunities. Skin changes associated with aging can be dermatologically categorized as alterations of texture, color, and contour. Texture Alterations The texture of the skin is the appearance of the surface as it relates to the amount of light reflected back to the human eye. This light reflection can be altered by desquamating corneocytes and/or the sebum-based film present on the skin surface. Removal of desquamating corneocytes is accomplished medically through the use of glycolic or salicylic acid based peels that chemically induce corneocyte disadhesion or microdermabrasion that mechanically induces corneocyte disadhesion. This removal of corneocytes reduces the natural SPF of the skin and creates enhanced percutaneous penetration creating iatrogenically induced sensitive skin. After the initial medical exfoliation procedure, maintanence of the skin surface can be achieved through the use carefully designed cosmetic applicators and cleansing cloths, which induce mechanical exfoliation, or the continued use of topical polyhydroxy acids, which induce chemical exfoliation. Skin smoothness is also impacted by the increasing size of the sebaceous glands with age, which ultimately translates into increased pore size. The increased sebaceous gland size creates an uneven skin surface increasing the need for cosmetics that enhance light reflection from the skin surface. Color Alterations The primary undesirable facial color alterations present with advancing age are the appearance of red and brown skin tones. Red tones become more apparent with chronic UV-induced inflammation, ultimately resulting in rosacea in Caucasian individuals. The redness is enhanced by the wetting effect of sebum which increases the optical translucency of the stratum corneum, allowing improved visualization of telangiectatic dermal vessels. While these vessels can be destroyed with laser, the resulting skin color is usually uneven creating the need for pigmented cosmetics. Brown tones, due to enhanced epidermal melanin, can be removed with medium depth face peels, unless the pigment is in the dermis. Following treatment, the pigment may rapidly return without the use of skin lightening preparations, UV A photoprotection, and skin care products formulated to reduce inflammation. Inflammation from irritation induced by cleansers, moisturizers, and/or pigmented cosmetics can result in rapid skin darkening.