212 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE Results and Discussion: All three studies showed a reduction of NMF by the water soak alone. This effect was intensified by extraction of the lipid with acetone/ether, aJthough the extraction alone did not remove NMF (Figure 1). Surprisingly, the second and third studies reveaJed a significant recovery ofNMF levels in the water soaked sites over the 3.5 hours between sample coUections (Figure 2). The water soak also caused a short-term significant elevation in skin pH, which returned to normal by the four-hour measurement time (Figure 3). Unlike the pH, however, moisture accumulation (MAT) remained low relative to baseline at four hours after soaking (Figure 4). Sorption/desorption showed some effect in the second study, but none in the third, perhaps because the study was run during the winter and the skin was already quite dry. NMF measurement on the calf was unexpectedly similar to that of the forearm, particularly in light of the extremely dry skin observed there (Figure 2). Conclusions Water soaks as short as IO minutes can dramatically alter the biophysical and biochemicaJ properties of the stratum comeum. Recovery from damage is a complex process not adequately described by any one measurement. Acknowledgements This material is based upon work supported under a Society of Cosmetic Chemists' Graduate Research Fellowship. Figure 1: Summed Amino Acids S1rlpl Slllp15 Tape Slltp Numbar Figure 3: pH Change from Basellr,e □ cor1ro1 0� ....... -----------...i.=..c..Soak..=-ed� ■ 0.6 0.4 :;I 0.2 i D -1------1.. __ -0.2 -0.4�------------� Strip 1 Slrlp 3 Slrlp 5 Strip 10 S1rlp 15 Tape llrlp nuriler 0.7 -r---------------=-'..=-'-' I 0.1 G.5 ju u, 11.J o.z 0.1 8■Mln• 30 1nlr111i. poa., 4 hours post- •oak ■oak

Forward 2003 ANNUAL SCIENTIFIC MEETING THE USE OF ANTI-INFLAMMATORY ACTIVES IN COSMEITC FORMULATIONS Nava Dayan, Ph.D. Lipo Chemicals, Inc., Paterson, NJ 213 It is known that various compounds in cosmetic formulations can provoke adverse effects, such as skin irritation, that may lead to inflammation. Among these ingredients are fragrances, preservatives, sunscreens, lanolin derivatives, and others. In most cases, the immune system of the skin is capable of eliminating these reactions without causing clinically apparent inflammation. A reaction will occur when a large amount of the irritating compound penetrates the outer layer of the skin, when the compound penetrates to an unusual (sensitive) location, or when the immune system has a difficulty metabolizing it ll_ The amount of irritant penetrating the stratum comeum (SC) is dependent on multiple parameters. These can be physicochemical properties of the compound, duration of skin contact, hydration state of the skin, area of application, the formulation composition, occlusion, and age. When designing a formula, one, therefore, must take the above into account. The safest formula will be one that does not contain any compounds with potential irritation, nor compounds that exhibit skin penetration/penetration enhancement properties. Nowadays in the cosmetic world, creation of such a formula is almost impossible. Moreover, in many cases the cosmetic formula will include active ingredients that claim to have properties such as anti-aging, rejuvenation and skin lightening. In these cases, the active ingredient's target of action is the living epidermis or even dermis. When opening the way to penetrate these layers, a potential skin irritation is almost inevitable 2 . Inflammatory Response An inflammatory response will occur when the body utilizes the immune system to fight invaders (or perceived invaders, such as allergens). This will result in inflammation, a reaction that will be manifested by four basic symptoms: redness (erythema), heat (elevation of local site temperature), swelling (edema) and pain. These symptoms of skin inflammation are the result of several cascades occurring simultaneously. Once the immune system identifies the invading molecule, a mobilization response to the site of contact occurs. This leads to an increased blood supply, increased vascular permeability and migration of granulocytes (at early stages) and mononuclear cells (at late stages). The removal of the invader is done in two stages: non-specific response, which is the immediate first line of defense, and specific response which takes four to five days to be established. The non-specific response is a relatively primitive recognition of the system between invader and self. It utilizes both the cellular and humeral arms. The later specific response is an acquired property and is done through a specific molecule recognition by either B or T cells. This response develops memory so when the antigen (invader) is re-introduced, the immune system already has a set of pre-determined cells that will respond. Among the cells that are responsible for the immune response in the skin are: langerhans, principle antigen presenting cells, keratinocyts and T-lymphocytes 1 . Anti-inflammatory Actives Over the past decade, with the growing concern of the consumer for both safe and effective products, the cosmetic industry looked into ways to prevent the inflammation cascade from occurring. This presentation will focus on three actives and will attempt to understand their mechanism of action in the prevention of skin inflammation. The actives are glycyrrhetinic acid, bisabolol and pseudopterosins. Glycyrrhitinic acid (GA) was found to inhibit the lytic pathway of the complement within the inflammation cascade. The complement is a group of mediators that are important in facilitating the immune system in defending against invaders. GA inhibits undesired cells lysis and prevents further tissue damage(J). It was also found to induce T-mature lymphocytes appoptosis 4 , enhance interleukin- I 2 production 5 and inhibit type 2 11-beta-hydroxysteroid dehydrogenase (I I-beta HSD), which inactivates cortiso1 5 _