266 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE Solvent Red 23) as a colorant in cosmetic products adopted by the SCCP during the 4th plenary meeting, 21 June 2005. (7) S. W. Collier, J. E. Storm, and R. L. Bronaugh, Reduction of azo dyes during in vitro percutaneous absorption, Toxicol. Appl. Pharmacol., 118, 73-79 (1993). (8) R. L. Bronaugh and R. F. Stewart, Methods for in vitro percutaneous absorption studies. III. Hydro­ phobic compounds,]. Pharm. Sci., 73, 1255-1258 (1984). (9) H. L. Hood, R. R. Wickett, and R. L. Bronaugh, In vitro percutaneous absorption of the fragrance ingredient musk xylol, Food Chem. Toxicol., 34, 483-488 (1996). (10) J. J. Yourick, M. L. Koenig, D. L. Yourick, and R. L. Bronaugh, Fate of chemicals in skin after dermal application: Does the in vitro skin reservoir affect the estimate of systemic absorption?, Toxicol. Appl. Pharmacol., 195, 309-320 (2004).

]. Cosmet. Sci.! 58, 267-268 (May/June 2007) Abstracts International Jounal of Cosmetic Science Vol. 29, No. 1, 2007* Review Article Skin in Maturity: The Endocrine and Neuroendocrine Pathways P. Quatresooz+, C. Pierard-Franchimont+, M Kharfit, K. Al Rustomt, C. A. Chian§, R Garcia�, Md. R. Kamount and G. E. Pierard"' +D ep artment of Dermatopathology, University Hospital of Liege, Liege, Belgium, tD ep artment of Dermatology, Charles Nicolle Hospital, Tunis, Tunisia, tSkin & Laser Clinic, Dubai, United Arab Emirates, §D ep artment of Pathology, Universidad Peruana Cayetano Heredia, Lima, Peru and �epartment of Dermatology, Hospital Essalud, Cusco, Peru Irrespective of age, most of the skin components are under the physiological control of endocrine and neuroendocrine factors. There is evidence that skin a�eing appears complex showing much interindividual vanability. Conceptually, ageing is a single biological process that is influenced and modulated by a series of various internal and exogenous factors. Among them, hormones and neuroendocrine signals play key roles in several ways. Ageing of most endocrine glands will in turn alter the skin biology. In addition, the age-related reduction in the intrinsic neuroendocrine activity of the skin will also alter the ageing rate of this organ. At last, various endocrinopathies will boost or conversely decrease the severity of the si gn s of cutaneous ageing. Modulation of Activity of the Adipocyte Aquaglyceroporin Channel by Plant Extracts M.-M. Cals-Grierson L'Oreal Recherche, 90, rue du General Roguet, 92583 Clichy cedex, Paris, France The plasma membrane protein, aquaglyceroporin-7 (AQP7) is exclusively expressed in adipocytes and appears to be a channel for glycerol entry and exit It is possible that by facilitating the opening of these channels, the loss of intracellular glycerol could be encouraged and thus reduce the size of the lipid reservoir. Human preadipocytes and mouse 3T3-Ll preadipocytes were induced to develop an adipocytic phenotype by culture in a semi-defined medium. After 7 days, the expression of AQP7 message had increased by 37-fold, a level which could be further up­ regulated by troglitazone or retinoic acid or down-regulated by insulin. The mature adipocytes also expressed immunoreactive aquaporin (AQP) channel protein as assessed by immunocytochemistry and Wes tern blot. The addition of adrenaline to the culture medium stimulated the release of itycerol (blockable by HgCh). Plant extracts, with potential anti-cellulite properties, were tested for their effect on glycerol elimination. These included wild yam root (Dioscorea opposita), cocoa bean (Theobroma cacao), horse chestnut tree (Aesculus hippocastanum) seed and bark and tomato (Solanum lycopersicum). Of these, D. opposita appeared to induce a dose-d ep endent glycerol release. The results show that our assay can help to identify modulators of AQP7 channel expression and activation in adipocytes. Topical Proteolytic Enzymes Affect Epidermal and Dermal Properties W.P. Smith+, M. Bishopt, G. Gillist and H. Maibacht+Dermac Inc., 46 Wakeman Road, New Canaan, CT 06840, U.S.A., tActifirm LLP, 1097 Yates Street, Lewisville, TX 75057, U.S.A. and tDepartment of Dermatology, UCSF, San Francisco, CA 94109, U.S.A. Although proteolytic enzymes have a history of use in skin care products it is not known whether they simply induce superficial exfoliation or with continued use can alter epidermal and dermal skin properties. We examined herein whether enhanced exfoliation resulting from treatment with an aspartyl dependent acid protease produces appearance improvements and over time, changes in the epidermis and dermis. Test participants applied 15% enzyme containing serum and a simple moisturizer twice daily for 3 months a matched control group applied the same serum (without enzyme) and moisturizer. Changes in skin smoothness and texture, the d ep th and number of lines and wrinkles, and epidermal and dermal firmness and thickness were examined in a double-blind fashion. Treatment with 15% enzyme product(s) resulted in significant improvement in * These abstracts appear as they were originally published. They have not been edited by the ]ottrnal of Cosmetic Science. 267