416 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE Over time there have been differences in the chemical compositions found for a few of the kohl samples studied here. Thus, in Tables I and II are listed the various major and minor phases found both here and in some of our prior publications for these samples. The "Hashmi Kajal" samples (in a B&W tube for both tables, and as a blue stick/pencil for Table I) are the only ones to have had variations-between amorphous carbon and zincite-in their major phases. For most of these variously analyzed samples, the minor phases have not changed significantly. One exception is in finding galena in both the "Hashmi Kajal" samples listed in Table II. We currently believe that this galena minor phase occurs as an occasional impurity with zincite ore from a particular location (galena often occurs as an impurity with the zinc ore sphalerite (ZnS), but only occasionally with the ore zincite). Also, over time there have been changes in the information provided, on both "contents data" and "medical effects," for some kohl samples. In the last two columns of Tables I and II are listed the varying "Y/N" symbols for samples studied here and in one or more of our prior publications. For "contents data" there have been changes for eight samples in Table I and for one sample in Table II. Most (i.e., six in Table I and one in Table II) of these changes are "positive"-that is, a change from providing no information on contents to providing at least some qualitative data. Regarding "Data on medical effects," six samples (in Table I) have changed from giving no such information to giving at least some such data. However, it should be stated that some of the information now given-for both contents and/or medicinal usage-is not always of the highest quality (see above). The non-lead elements or compounds found in our present study are broadly similar to those found in the previous studies in Table IV. However, several authors (32,36,38,41) did find antimony (usually in small/very small amounts) in some of their kohl samples, whereas in all our previous studies, as well as here, we found no antimony whatsoever. CONCLUSIONS In the 29 kohl samples analyzed overall in this study, 14 (48%) samples had galena (PbS) present to some degree. By country studied, this number and percentage change to: for Doha (Qatar), six (32%) out of 19 and eight (80%) of ten for Yemen. The other main phases found in our samples were amorphous carbon (three), iron oxides (one), quartz (one), sassolite (five), talc (one) and zincite (seven). In Yemen a large number of the samples for sale had no labeling whatsoever (and thus no written information on contents or possible medicinal usage) and were often locally made, whereas for Qatar all the samples found in the souks of Doha had been imported (mostly from India and Pakistan) and only one had no written labeling. This study thus shows that traditional eye cosmetics ("kohls") are readily available in the souks of Doha (Qatar) and Yemen. If a kohl sample was bought in a souk in Doha, there would be an approximately one-in-three probability that it would contain a lead com pound. For the souks of Saana, there would be a higher probability of a kohl sample bought there containing a lead compound (five of the seven samples, bought in two souks, contained galena, though in three samples only as a minor phase), and on the few (three) samples where labeling is present, there would be no information on lead's presence.
CHEMICAL COMPOSITION OF "KOHLS" 417 Moreover, overall, some of the kohls not only contain lead, but contain it in a form (i.e., small-particle size) that makes it more easily absorbed into the human gut. We can only reiterate, again, that this element has no known biological value and is an insidious cumulative poison having potentially devastating cognitive effects if applied regularly to young children. ACKNOWLEDGMENTS We thank the following people for their help in the course of this study: Mr. Paul Auchterlonie (Librarian for Middle East Studies, Exeter University, UK) and Dr. Sajjad Rizvi (Institute for Arab and Islamic Studies, Exeter University, UK) for translations of Arabic and Urdu, respectively and Prof. Terrance B. Murphy (Weil Cornell Medical College, Doha, Qatar) for help with sample collection. Also, we thank the staff of the Chemical and Materials Analysis Unit (University of Newcastle, UK) for some of the experimental SEM work mentioned in this article. REFERENCES (1) H. Schonig, Traditional cosmetics of women in Yemen. The black dye hidab: Traditional and modern ways of fabrication, Proc. Seminar Arab. Stud., 26, 135-144 (1996). (2) A. D. Hardy, R. I. Walton, K. A. Myers, and R. Vaishnav, Availability and chemical composition of traditional eye cosmetics ("kohls") used in the United Arab Emirates of Dubai, Sharjah, Ajman, Umm Al-Quwain, Ras Al-Khaimah, and Fujairah,J. Cosmet. Sci., 57, 107-125 (2006). (3) K. N. Jallad and H. G. Hedderich, Characterization of a hazardous eyeliner (kohl) by confocal Raman microscopy,]. Hazard. Mater., 124(1-3), 236-240 (2005). (4) 0. S. Safouri, I. F. Gaballah, L.A.Rashed, and H. A. Samy, Periorbital pigmentation by lead in kohl, ]. Egypt. Wom. Dermatol. Soc., 3(1), 4-18 (2006). (5) K. Mohamed, G. Ahmed, N. Aly, and Abd-Elmonem Abd-Elmoty, Determination of lead in bio logical specimens from a homicidal poisoning case by kohl (lead sulfide), Tox. Lett., 172(Supp. 1), S213-S214 (2007). (6) A. D. Hardy, R. Vaishnav, S.S. Z. Al-Kharusi, H. H. Sutherland, and M.A.Worthing, Composition of eye cosmetics (kohls) used in Oman,]. Ethnopharmacol., 60, 223-234 0998). (7) A. D. Hardy, R. I. Walton, and R. Vaishnav, Composition of eye cosmetics (kohls) used in Cairo, Int. ]. Environ. Health Res., 14(1), 83-91 (2004). (8) A. D. Hardy, H. H. Sutherland, and R. Vaishnav, A study of the composition of some eye cosmetics (kohls) used in the United Arab Emirates,]. Ethnopharmacol., 80(2-3), 137-145 (2002). (9) R. A. Goyer, Lead toxicity: From overt to subclinical to subtle health effects, Environ. Health Perspect., 86, 177-181 (1990). (10) H. L. Needleman, A. Schell, D. Bellinger, and E. N. Alfred, The long term effects of exposure to low does of lead in childhood: An eleven year follow-up report, N. Engl.]. Med., 332, 83-88 (1990). (11) J. Schwartz and D. Otto, Lead and minor hearing impairment, Arch. Environ. Health, 46, 300-306 (1991). (12) C. D. Klaasen, Casarett and Dou/l's Toxicology, the Basic Science of Poisons, Yhed. (McGraw-Hill, New York, 1996). (13) R. L. Canfield, C.R.Henderson, D. A. Cory-Slechta, C. Cox, T. A. Jusko, and B. P. Lanphear, Intel lectual impairment in children with blood lead concentrations below 10 µg per decilitre, New Eng.]. Med., 348(16), 1517-1526 (2003). (14) M. M. Tellez-Rojo, D. C. Bellinger, C. Arroyo-Quiroz, H. Lamadrid-Figueroa, A. Mercado-Garcia, L. Schnaas-Arrieta, R. 0. Wright, M. Hernandez-Avila, and H. Hu, Longitudinal associations between blood lead concentrations lower than 10 microg/dl and neurobehavioral development in environmen tally exposed children in Mexico City, Pediatrics, 118(2), 323-330 (2006).
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