]. Cosmet. Sci.J 59, 455-456 (September/October 2008) Abstracts IFSCC Magazine Vol. 11, No. 1, 2008* ,Luctor et Emergo' Luigi Rigano L. Rigano Laboratories, Miano, Italy 'Luctor et emergo' means to struggle, fight or wrestle in order to come up, win or just emerge and survive. It was adopted as a national motto by the Zeeland region in Holland to underline their daily battle with high tides. Indeed, this Latin motto effectively illustrates the struggle to make things work, that is to overcome all difficulties and hurdles and make everything flow smoothly at the end. Therefore, it applies appropriately to our subheading: 'all battles and bridges between the language of marketing and product formulation'. What are the main causes of misunderstanding or hindrances between marketing and the formulator? Could common objectives overcome such gaps? How can we establish bridges with a view to enhancing creative cooperation? Finally, would it be possible to find solutions which can provide a mutual cross-fertilization? The following humorous example will make the problem clear. The scene is a kitchen where we see an old and ugly couple. The husband asks his wife, who is holding a tin can: »Would you like some tuna fish?« She answers: »No, I would like to be naked in bed with Kevin Costner in Jamaica«. This is obviously a dialogue of the deaf, where both speak only apparently the same language. In fact, they fail to convey what they really mean. This signifies that they are not on the same wavelength, they do not refer to the same code of speech to communicate and it seems impossible for them to understand each other. How can we make ourselves understood when communication is sometimes so difficult and work out appropriate solutions when we put R&D and Marketing at two poles of a commurication scheme? Small Proteoglycans in the Skin: New Targets in the Fight against Skin Aging Gilles Pauly1, Jean-Luc Contet-Audonneau1, Philippe Moussou1, Louis Danoux1, Vincent Bardey1, Olga Freis1, Melanie Sabadotto1, Yanusz Wegrowski2, Franyois-Xavier Maquart2, and Andreas Rathjens1 1 Cognis France, Division Laboratoires Serobiologiques, 3 rue de Seichamps, 54425 Pulnoy, France 2 Laboratoire de Biochimie et Biologie Moleculaire, CNRS UMR 6198, IFR 53-Biomolecules, Faculte de Medecine, Universite de Reims-Champagne-Ardenne, 51 rue Cognacq Jay, 51095 Reims Cedex, France Proteoglycans take an important part in tissue homeostasis. In the skin, Proteoglycans are present in the extracellular matrix of dermis, particularly with lumican which plays an important role in dermal homeostasis. In the epidermis, several small proteoglycans such as the syndecans are synthesized and play an important role in keratinocyte activation. There is much data on the alteration during skin aging of the synthesis and structure of glycosaminoglycans and some proteoglycans but little information on small proteoglycans, in particular lumican and syndecan-1. We recently observed a decrease in the synthesis of these two small proteoglycans with aging. We confirm in this work the decrease in lumican in dermis and syndecan-1 in epidermis with aging. These proteoglycans represent original important targets for cosmetology in the fight against skin aging. In different in vitro models, two synthetic acetyl tetrapeptides, AcTPl and AcTP2, stimulate the synthesis of lumican and syndecan-1, respectively. The beneficial action of AcTPI on skin thickness and firmness and of AcTP2 on epidermal cohesion has been confirmed in vivo. * These abstracts appear as they were originally published. They have not been edited by the Journal of Cosmetic Science. 455

456 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE A New Water-in-Powder Technology: A Novel Structure for Creating Unique Cosmetic Products Keiji Igarashi, Keisuke Sagara, and Junichiro Egawa Research and Development Division, KOSE Corporation, 48-18 Sakae-cho, Kita-ku, Tokyo, 114- 0005, Japan A water-in-powder cosmetic is one in which a large amount of water is encapsulated in a powder. In this study we describe the development of this type of cosmetic. We first focused on the hydrophilic/hydrophobic balance of the nano-sized powder surface. We looked at surface state of powders in the gas adsorption test and discovered functional powders that have an optimized balance of hydrorepellency and hydrophilicity due to fractal surface and free hydroxyl groups, respectively. Using this material we created a new powder technology that can encapsulate a large quantity of water in a stable structure. We also looked at how the powders encapsulated water by observing them with wet-SEM and how the encapsulated water is stabilized by measuring the water mobility with 17O-NMR. Based on these result, we developed a new technology with water and powder. By encapsulating a large amount of water, we achieved a cosmetic with many unique characteristics: The powder cosmetic can become a liquid by application of friction on skin, it is convenient to use and provides moist, cool feel. It also functions as an excellent makeup by spreading smoothly on skin to form a uniform makeup coating. Coenzyme Ql0 Has Anti-Aging Effects on Human Hair Melanie Giesen*, Thomas WelB*, Erik Schulze zur Wieschet, Volker Schememannt, Sabine Gruedl*, Yasmin Oezkabakcioglu*, Elisabeth Poppet, Dirk Petersohn* * Phenion GmbH & Co. KG, 40225 D0sseldorf, Germany t Hans Schwarzkopf & Henkel GmbH & Co. KG, 22763 Hamburg, Germany Ubiquinones are the most widespread and therefore best investigated bioquinones. Due to their hydrophobic isoprenoid side chain, ubiquinones can be solubilized in organic solvents or lipids but are insoluble in water. Using a specific emulsifier system it has been possible to deliver positive effects to biological systems also from aqueous formulations. Ubiquinone-50, also referred to as coenzyme Ql0, is well known in cosmetic science and especially in skin care because of its antioxidant activity. It is found in the membranes of. peroxisomes, lysosomes, vesicles, the endoplasmic reticulum and notably in the inner membrane of the mitochondrion, where it is an important part of the electron transport chain. Using coenzyme Ql0 in the proposed emulsifier system we could show that the molecule not only has relevance as an anti-aging bioactive in skin care but also has positive effects on the human hair follicle. The hair follicle is a complex mini organ and synthesis of hair keratin, the major component of hair fibers, is an essential prerequisite for the growth of strong and healthy hair. But like all biological systems the hair follicle, the biologically active part of the hair, also undergoes an aging process associated among other things with a decline in certain hair keratins. Due to this age-related shift in basic structural proteins of the hair shaft, mature hair often becomes fragile and difficult to manage. Therefore it is a challenge for cosmetic science to provide bioactives to fight age-related changes and maintain a youthful appearance of hair. Using cultivated hair follicle keratinocytes we identified coenzyme Q 10 as a potent bioactive that stimulates the gene expression of different hair keratins, especially those which are reduced during aging processes in hair follicles. These results led us to investigate a shampoo and a tonic formulation enriched with coenzyme Ql0 in a placebo­ controlled panel study. In a left/right comparison a group of healthy volunteers older than 40 years of age applied the formulations daily for four days. Throughout the test period the gene expression of different hair keratins from plucked hair follicles was determined using quantitative polymerase chain reaction techniques. Subsequent statistical analysis revealed an increase in age-relevant hair keratins in human hair roots treated with coenzyrne Ql0, thus pointing out the striking benefits of coenzyme Q 10 in hair care formulations. We conclude that coenzyme Q 10 is an ideal ingredient for hair care formulations, providing anti-aging properties through activation of specific keratins aligned with the needs of mature hair. Therapy Makeup Improves Quality of Life of Patients with Skin Diseases- Covering Fouooations Created by Integration of Medical and Beauty Care for Severe Skin Color Problems Yoshinori Sagehashi '), Akira Ito 2 ), Tatsuya Ohtake 1 , Masahiro Nakamura '), Katsuhiko Yagi 2 ), Katsuki Ogawa 2 , Tomoyuki Katsuyama 2 , Mari Yoshida 2 , Kimiko Oshiro 3 . and Wakae Aoki 3 1 Shiseido Research Center, 2-2-1 Hayabuchi, Tsuzuki­ ku, Yokohama, 224-8558, Japan 2 Pierre Fabre Japon Co.,Ltd., 6-8-8 Akasaka, Minato-ku, Tokyo, 107-0052, Japan 3 Beauty Solution Development Center, Shiseido CO., LTD., 7-5-5 Ginza, Chuo-ku, Tokyo, 104-00 61 , Japan In collaboration with medical institutions, we have been providing makeup guidance to people with facial skin olor problems under the name »therapy makeup«. The aim of therapy makeup is to reduce the anxiety and ension associated with the appearance of people with skin color problems and to provide psychological support, thereby helping them live more normal lives. Ota's nevus (blue birthmarks) and port-wine stain (red birthmarks) the leading causes of abnormal skin coloration. We have already developed covering foundations for Ota's nevus and port-wine stain using a light-filtering technology. Another common cause of abnormal skin coloration is vitiligo (white patches). Vitiligo cannot be adequately covered by conventional cosmetic foundations. Therefore, we developed a new covering foundation for vitiligo based on optical characteristics. Moreover, the effects of makeup on the psychology of patients with vitiligo were objectively evaluated using psychometrically established quality of life indices. It was demonstrated that makeup helped to alleviate the psychological anxiety and tension of patients, resulting in improvement of social relationships and self-esteem. The integration of medical care and beauty care enables therapy makeup to improve quality of life of patients with skin color disorders.