452 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE temperature, respectively. When the patch was kept at 50_C, the remaining curcumin could not be detected. According to vertical diffusion cell method. we found a rapid rate of curcumin release from the patch. The curcumin release pattern, which fitted well to the Higuchi's model, exhibited two distinct phases: the rapid phase (0-15 min}, where the release rate of the curcumin averaged 0.74 lg min)I mm}2, and the slow phase (15- 120 min), where the release rate averaged O 13 lg min)I mm)2. Any sign of skin irritation was not observed in volunteers after single application of the curcuminoids patch in the under-eye area for 30 min. This finding indicates mildness to skin of the developed patch. Review Article Cosmetic features and applications of lipid nanoparticles (SLN_, NLC_) E. B. Souto* and R. H. Mu .. lier_ *Department of Phannaceutical Technology, Faculty of Health Sciences, Fernando Pessoa University, Rua Carlos da Maia, 296, 4200-150 Porto, Portugal and _Department of Phannacy, Phannaceutical Technology, Biophannaceutics and NutriCosmetics, Free University of Berlin, Kelchstr. 31, D-12169 Berlin, Gennany Eliana B. Souto, Department of Phannaceutical Technology, Faculty of Health Sciences, Fernando Pessoa University, Rua Carlos da Maia, 296, 4200-150 Porto, Portugal. Tel.: +351 225 074630 fax: +351 225 074637 e­ mail: eliana@ufp.pt A detailed review of the literature is presented in attempts to emphasize several advantages of solid lipid nanoparticles (SLN) and nanostructured lipid carriers (NLC) for cosmetic applications. Examples of several actives are given and the main features of the sol id core of SLN and NLC for topical delivery of cosmetics are discussed. Lipid nanoparticles have been more and more explored in phannaceutical technology, showing superior advantages for topical purposes over conventional colloidal carriers. Preparation and characterization of herbal creams for improvement of skin viscoelastic properties M. S. Ahshawat, S. Saraf and S. Saraf Institute of Phannacy, Pt. Ravishankar Shukla University, Raipur, Chhattisgarh 03132002, India Mahendra Ahshawat, Institute of Phannacy, Pt. Ravishankar Shukla University, Raipur, Chhattisgarh 03132002, India. Tel.: +91 294 2417170 fax: +91 294 2417170 e-mail: msaresearch@rcdiffma ii .com!swamlata sarafripredi ffmail .com The aim of this study was to fonnulate and evaluate herbal cosmetic creams for their improvement of skin viscoelastic and hydration properties. The cosmetic cream fonnulations were designed by using ethanolic extracts of Glycyrriza glabra, Curcuma longa (roots), seeds of Psorolea corlifolia, Cassia tora, Areca catechu, Punica granatum, fruits of Embel ica officinale, leaves of Centel la asiatica, dried bark of Cinnamon zeylanicum and fresh gel of Aloe vera in varied concentrations (0.12--0.9%w/w) and characterized using physicochemical and Physiological measurements. The ethanolic extracts of herbs were incorporated in a cream base that is prepared by a phase inversion emulsification technique. The cream base was prepared by utilizing oil of Prunus amagdalus, Sesamum indicum, honey, cetyl alcohol, stearic acid, polysorbate monoleate, sorbitan monostearate, propylene glycol and glycerin. Physicochemical assessments and microbiological testing were completed for all fonnulations according to the methods of the Indian Standard Bureau. The studies were carried out for 6 weeks on nonnal subjects (6 males and 12 females, between 22 and 50 years) on the back of their volar foreann for evaluation of viscoelastic properties in tenns of extensibility via a suction measurement, firmness using laboratory fabricated instruments such as ball bouncing and skin hydration using electric (resistance) measurement methods. The physicochemical parameters of fonnulations CAA1-CAA6, i.e. pH, acid value, saponification value, viscosity, spreadability, layer thickness microbial count and skin sensitivity were found to be in the range of 5 01 ± 0.4-6.07 ± 0.6, 3.3-5.1 ± 0.2, 20-32, 5900-6755 cps, 60-99%, 25-50 Im, 31-46 colony­ forming units (CFU) and a 0-1 erythema score. The fonnulations. CAA4 and CAA5, showed an increase in pt:n.:t:ntage extensibility (32.27 ± 1.7% and 29.89 ± ! .64%, respectively), firmness (28.86 ± 0.86% and 29.89 ± 2.8%, respectively) and improved skin hydration (15.97 ± 0.55 and 18.27 ± 0.99%, respectively) and were found more effective compared with the control product (C7) after the 6- week study. Poly(D,L-lactide) nanoencapsulation photoinactivation of a sunscreen agent to reduce M. Vettor*, P. Perugini•, S. Scalia_, B. Conti*, I. Genta•, T. Modena* and F. Pavanetto* *Department of Pharmaceutical Chemistry, School of Phannacy, University of Pavia, 27 l 00 Pavia and _ Department of Phannaceutical Sciences, School of Phannacy, University of Ferrara, 44100 Ferrara, Italy Dr Manuela Vettor, Department of Phannaceutical Chemisty, University of Pavia, V.le Taramelli 12, 27100 Pavia, Italy. Tel.: +39 038 2987363 fax +39 038 2422975 e-mail: manucla. vettor(wunipv. it The use of sunscreens is the 'gold standard' for protecting the skin from ultraviolet light. Octyl methoxycinnamate (OMC) is one of the most widely used UVB filter but it can act as a sensitizer or photoallergen. When exposed to sunlight, OMC can change from the primary trans-fonn to cisforrn and the isomerization, not reversible, conducts to a reduction of the UVB filtering efficiency because the trans­ fonn has a higher extinction coefficient. Photostability is the most important characteristic of effective sunscreens and it can be influenced by fonnulation ingredients and by applying technological strategies. In this work, photostability experiments, performed on emulsion- gels containing different percentages of OMC free or loaded in poly(d,1-lactide) nanoparticles, were carried out. The presence of a polymeric envelop may act to protect the active ingredient. In this study, the influence of poly(d,1- lactide) matrices on. the photochemical stability of the

ABSTRACTS 453 sunscreen agent was investigated. As highlighted in this study, free OMC in different fonnulations has different photoisomerization degree. Moreover, a dissimilar behaviour was observed by studying different s unscreen concentrations in the same cosmetic fonnulation. Photostability results show a significant reduction in photoisomerization degree for fonnulations containing sunscreen loaded in nanopanicles, highlighting that the encapsulation is a suitable strategy to improve OMC photostability. Moreover, sun protection factor (SPF) results show that the UVB filter protective power is also maintained after encapsulation. Combined retinol-lactose-glycolic acid effects on photoaged skin: a double-blind placebo-controlled study C. Bertin*, H. Zunino*, M. Lanctin*, G.N. Stamatas*, E. Camel_, C. Robert_ and N. Issachar* * Johnson & Johnson Consumer France, 1 rue Camille Desmoulins, 92787 lssy­ les-Moulineaux, _IEC, 88 Boulevard des Beiges, 69006 Lyon and _Institut Gustave Roussy, Villejuif, France C. Bertin, Johnson & Johnson Consumer France, 1 rue Camille Desmoulins, 92787 Issy-les-Moulineaux, France. Tel.: +33 1 55 00 47 33 fax: +33 1 55 00 24 00 e-mail: cbertin@jnjfr.jnj.com The objective of this study was to assess the efficacy of the combination of retinol, lactose and glycolic acid applied topically on photodamaged skin. Forty female volunteers were enrolled in a doubleblind, randomized placebo­ controlled clinical study. A cream containing retinol, lactose and glycolic acid was applied on one side of the face and a placebo cream on the other side, twice daily for 12 weeks. Skin photoageing signs were assessed clinically, whereas skin microrelief and moisturization were measured instrumentally. Both the clinical assessment and the objective instrumental measurements revealed that the active-treated side was significantly improved at the end of the study compared with baseline and control-treated side. In conclusion, our results demonstrate that topical application of a combination of retinol, lactose and glycolic acid has significantly improved the appearance of photodamaged skin. Synthesis of new antioxidant conjugates and their in vitro hydrolysis with Stratum comeum enzymes M. Gelo-Pujic*, J.-R. Desmurs"' l, S. Delaire_, A. Adao_ and D. Tawil_"'Rhodia CRTL, 85 rue des fre'res Perret, 69192 Saint Fons cedex, _Chanel Parfums Beaute·, 135 Avenue Charles de Gaulle, 92521 Neuilly sur Seine cedex and Cosmetic Research Center, Chanel Parfums Beaute·, Sophia Antipolis, France Mirjana Gelo-Pujic, Rhodia CRTL, 85 rue des fre'res Perret, 69192 Saint Fons cedex, France. Tel.: +33 4 72 89 69 88 fax: +33 4 72 89 67 24 e-mail: mirjana.gelo­ pujic@eu.rhodia.com The aim of this study was to synthesize new precursors, combinations of well-known antioxidant molecules: resveratrol, lipoic acid and vitamin E to improve their photo-stability and to modulate their lipophylic character. Active antioxidants are available through a controlled release by the action of skin enzymes upon a topic application. Two conjugates are described, the combinations of resveratrol-lipoic acid (6) and resveratrol­ vitamin E (IO). Both compounds are new molecules. This work describes their synthesis, characterization, stability study and in vitro biohydrolysis. Stratum comeum enzymes efficiently hydrolysed in vitro precursor 6 and liberate both active molecules, resveratrol and lipoic acid over the period of 72 h. Precursor l O was hydrolysed in vitro by combination of Stratum comeum enzymes and the cholesterol esterase. A simple technique of preparation of the human Stratum comeum hydrolases is also described.