j. Cosmet. Sci., 52, 433436 (November/December 2001) SUBJECT INDEX TO VOLUME 52 Age and skin thickness, 391 Antibacterial substautivity of eyebrow pencils, 327 of fragrance materials, 95 modified cup scrub method for assessing, 369 of personal cleansing products, 369 Antioxidant(s) ot-tocopherol acetate, 35, 225 broad spectrum testing of raw materials, 75 fragrance materials and aromas, activity of, 95 as preservatives, 423 Bioconversion vitamin E acetate into vitamin E, 155 Bioelectronics devices, 73 optobioelectronics, 73 Caffeine in anti-cellulite product, 199 Cationic polymers (see also Polymers) adsorption onto hair, 51 cationic charge level, 119 deposition onto keratin surfaces, 119 optical and frictional properties of, 51 polycation substantivity to hair, 71 and silicone oil deposition from shampoo, 131 viscosity, influence on deposition of, ! 19 Cellulite anti-cellulite product, !99 hypodermal ratio of, 199 Chemoreception recent developments in, 425 Chromatography HPLC, in determination of procaine hydrochloride and dibucaine hydrochloride in cosmetics, 253 HPLC, in quantification of vitamin E acetate and vitamin E, 155 ion, in oral hygiene products, 399 pyrolysis-gas, in polymer analysis, !97 Collagen synthesis, 82 Cosmetics functional silicones in, 196 foundations, zirconia-coated spherical complex silica in, 198 HPLC in determination of procaine hydrochloride and dibucaine hydrochloride in, 253 pigments in, 419 preservative-free, 423 Retinol degradation in, 77 silicones in, 196 sugar and its derivatives in, 251 Dentifrices abrasiveness evaluation of silica and calcium carbonate in, 163 Emulsifiers (see also Surfactants) ethyl cellulose as w/o type, 253 high and low HLB, 421 surfactant-oil mixtures, self-emulsification of, 144 Emulsion(s) (see also Gels) mesomorphic (lameliar) phases in stability of, 142 in personal care applications, 138 Esters meadowfoam derivatives, 149 polymeric technology, 346 Eyes dark circles under, 197 Eyebrow pencil blooming on, 327 Face attractiveness of, 251 configuration of, 252 skin condition of, relationship to sebum composition and seasonal changes, 326 skin thickness of, 391 Fatty acids as antimicrobial and anfi-insecticidal agents, 423 in sebum, 211 433

434 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE Fingernails (see also Nail enamels) mechanical properties of, 198 moisture content of, 198 Foundations color rendering powder and base make-up, 326 zirconia-coated spherical complex silica, application to, 198 Fragrances (see also Odors) antibacterial and antioxidant activity of fragrance materials, 95 Frictional measurements and cationic polymers on hair, 51 Gels (see also Emulsions) ointments containing Aloe vera, 255 SLN, incorporation into, 313 Gloss and cationic polymers on h•tir, 51 Glycerin in alleviating skin dryness and irritation, 86 effect on short-term measurement of skin moisturization, 13, 79 Hair bending properties of, 330, 355 cationic polymer adsorption onto, 51 cationic polymer deposition on, 119 coconut and mineral oils, penetration into, 169 color, 103 cross section, 103, 297 diameter, 103, 169, 355 dichromatic reflection model in, 242 elements in, 297 frictional measurements of, 51 gloss, 51 gray vs black, 103 growing activity and procyanidins, 253 luster, measurement of, 237 mechanical extension of, 185 opacity, 51 penetration pathways into, 265 restructuring by protein derivatives, 332 root, elemental distributions within, 297 silicone oil deposition on, 131 straightening, 196 swelling, effects of oil penetration on, 169 tensile strength of, 103 transverse swelling of, 103 treatments, 169, 355 type, in hairspray analysis, 281 variations along fibers, 297 virgin segment, elemental distributions within, 297 wet combing force of, 103 Hair care fixative, 337 products, 68 shampoo application, foaming, and rinsing, 71 Hair cuticle abrasion of, 103 cell surface, 185 cell membrane complex (CMC), 185 movement of, 185 and perming and conditioning, 185 scale structure of, 185 tryptophan damage on, 103 Hair damage (see also Hair cuticle) and bleaching, 332 and grooming, 330 photodamage, ambient dependent, 334 and relaxing, 332 UV, on natural gray hair, 103 and weathering, 330 Hair dyes photoprotection by, 377 Hairspray dynamic analysis of, 281 solvent composition in, 281 Hormones calciotropic, and the skin, 146 Lipid(s) nanotubes as skin penetration modulators, 344 pathlength in stratum corneum, 339 solid lipid nanoparticles (SLN), occlusive properties of, 313 Melanin and sun exposure, 91 up regulation by UVB exposure, 327 Microscopy fluorescent, in examination of polymer deposition on hair, 119 in vivo confocal, in skin optics, 91 SEM, in study of polymer film on hair surface, 337 TEM, to study penetration pathways in hair fiber, 265 Moisturizers (see also Skin moisturization) in alleviating dryness and irritation, 86 Mosquito repellency new method for testing, 417 Nail enamels technique for preventing pigment sedimentation in, 196 Occlusion effect of topicals in an SLN carrier system, 313 Odor(s) (see also Fragrances) control, application of aroma formation mechanism of plants to, 197 products to prevent body odor in the aged, 326