SUBJECT INDEX 435 Oils coconut, penetration into human hair fibers, 169 mineral, penetration into human hair fibers, 169 silicone, deposition from shampoo, 131 Opacity and cationic polymer on hair, 51 Oral hygiene products determination of fluorine and sodium monofluorophosphate in, 399 Personal cleansing products antibacterial substantivity of, 369 Photoprotection (see also Sunscreens) by hair dyes, 377 of natural gray hair, 103 UVA protection, 412 Photostability of sunscreens, 412 of UV filters, 1 Physical appearance influence on others, 325 Pigment(s) in color cosmetics, 419 pearl, in "color rendering powder," 326 Polymers (see also Cationic polymers Polymer deposition) analysis by pyrolysis-gas chromatography, 197 effects of fluorescent dye on, 119 and ester technology, 346 in hairspray, 281 style memorizing for hair fixative, 337 Polymer deposition (see also Cationic polymers Polymers) at different tress locations, 119 effect of repeated washings on, 119 influence of viscosity on, 119 qualitative examination of', via fluorescent microscopy, 119 of silicone oil from shampoo, 131 Preservatives antioxidants, 423 aroma chemicals, 423 formulating preservative-free cosmetics, 423 Protein derivatives and hair restructuring, 332 Psychological perspectives emotional change by use of skin care products, 252 facial attractiveness, 251 Raw materials structure/activity relationship in, 151 Research and development guiding principles for, 196 Retinol in anti-cellulite product, 199 degradation in cosmetic products, 77 Ruscogenine in anti-cellulite product, 199 Sebum composition of, 211,236 DSC studies of, 211 models, 211 Shampoo application, 71 foaming, 71 rinsing, 71 silicone oil deposition from, 131 Silicone(s) in cosmetic applications, 196 elastomers, 140 oil, deposition from shampoo, 131 vehicles for Aloe vera, 255 Skin (see also Stratum corneum) adsorption of cationic polymers onto, 51 age-related changes of, 252 bioconversion of vitamin E acetate into vitamin E in, 155 bisphenol A permeation of, 251 and calciotropic hormones, 146 dermis, 199 diffusion, 82 dryness, 23, 86 electrical properties of, 13, 23, 79 epidermis, 91 flowmetry of perfusion of, 199 grades, 23 hypodermis, 199 infant, 341 irritancy, 84 macrorelief of', 199 mechanical characteristics of, 199 moisturization (hydration), 13, 23, 79 optics, 91 penetration enhancement in, 84 penetration modulators, 344 permeation and metabolism of o•-tocopherol and o•-tocopheryl acetate, 35, 235 physical properties of, 195 thickness, 391 tone, impact on color generated by effect pigments, 419 treatment, 225 Skin care products creams to reduce erythema, scaling, itching, 86 efficacy test of, 195 emotional change by use of, 252 technology, 68 lotion based on wine component, 197 release systems for applications of, 350 Skin hydration. See Skin moisturization

436 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE Skin moisturization influence of occlusive compounds on, 313 long-term results of, 23, 79 one-hour measurements of, 23 short-term measurements of, effect of glycerin, 13 single treatments, 79 Sodium chloride effect on short-term measurement of skin moisturization, 13, 79 Solvent(s) composition in hairspray, 281 Spectroscopy (see also X-ray fluorescence) secondary ion mass, to study penetration of oils into hair, 169 Stratum corneum (see also Skin) barrier damage of, 86 delivery of active ingredients in, 346 lipid pathlength in, 339 skin surface relief, 326 thickness of, 91 UV filters in, 1 Sun exposure and lack of melanosome caps, 91 and melanin, 91 and migration of melanosomes, 91 and stratum corneum thickness, 91 Sunscreens combination products, 408 ethyl cellulose in, 253 as filters of ultraviolet radiation, 1 gemini surfactants for, 414 photostability of, 1, 412 SPF improvements in, 410 UVA protection by, 412 Surfactants (see also Cationic polymers Polymers Emulsifiers) effect on synthesis of silicone latex, 153 gemini, in sunscreens, 414 nonionic, 421 in self-preserving formulas, 423 surfactin sodium salt, 153 Ultrasonography in measurement of skin thickness, 391 Ultraviolet radiation damage on hair, 103 low-dose UVB irradiation and reduction of Langerhans cell number, 325 Retinol degradation from, 77 sunscreen filters of, 1 UVB and up regulation of melanin, 327 Vitamin E (ot-tocopherol) as antioxidant, 35, 155, 225 bioconversion from vitamin E acetate (ot-tocopheryl acetate), 155 distribution in human skin, 155 kinetics of permeation and metabolism of, 35 permeation profile of, 35 quantification by HPLC, 155 Vitamin E acetate (ot-tocopheryl acetate) as antioxidant, 35, 155,225 bioconversion to vitamin E (ot-tocopherol), 155 delivery of, 225 kinetics of permeation and metabolism of, 35 metabolism of, 225 permeation profile of, 35 quantification by HPLC, 155 Whitening agents evaluation method for, 95 X-ray fluorescence for estimation of elemental content in hair, 297 to study oil deposition from shampoo, 131