636 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE segment breaks. The ratio of long-to-short segment breaks is a good way to follow the effect of different variables on the types of hair breakage that occur under different conditions. Variables such as bleaching, a longer comb stroke, increasing fiber curvature, wet combing versus dry combing, and brushing versus combing all provide for an increase in long segment breaks and an increase in the LIS, with the largest effect produced by brushing. REFERENCES (1) C. Robbins, Hair breakage during combing. I. Pathways of breakage,]. Cosmet. Sci., 57, 233-243 (2006). (2) A. C. Brown and J. A. Swift, Hair breakage: The scanning electron microscope as a diagnostic tool,]. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 26, 289-299 (1975). (3) C. Robbins, Hair breakage during combing. II. Impact loading and hair breakage,]. Cosmet. Sci., 57, 245-257 (2006). (4) C. Robbins and Y. K. Karnath, Hair Breakage during combing. III. The effects of bleaching and conditioning on short and long segment breakage by wet and dry combing of tresses,]. Cosmet. Sci., 58, 477-484 (2007). (Presented in part at the 2nd International TRI/Princeton Conference on Applied Hair Science, September 18-19, 2006.) (5) C. Robbins, Chemical and Physical Behavior of Human Hair, 4th ed. (Springer-Verlag, New York, 2002), pp. 432-433.
]. Cosmet. Sci., 58, 637-650 (November/December 2007) Use of quaternized cassia galactomannan for hair conditioning J. A. STAUDIGEL, K. BUNASKY, C. J. GAMSKY, M. S. WAGNER, K. J. STUMP, J.M. BAKER, R. L. MARPLE, and J. H. THOMAS, Hair Care Research and Development, The Procter & Gamble Company, 11511 Reed Hartman Highway, Cincinnati, OH 45241. Accepted for publication May 22, 2007. Synopsis There is a continuing need for hair care formulas to deliver superior conditioning benefits with highly efficient deposition of hair-enhancing components. In this paper, we describe high-charge-density (3.0 mEq/g) cassia hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride (cassia HPTC), a quaternized galactomannan from the endosperm of Cassia tora and Cassia obtusifolia. Cassia HPTC is shown to participate in the coacervate phase of conditioning shampoos, from which it is deposited onto hair to provide conditioning benefits. Cryo scanning electron microscopy and time-of-flight secondary ion mass spectrometry were used to observe and characterize the cassia HPTC deposits left on hair. The high-charge-density cassia HPTC resulted in improved deposition efficiency compared with a quaternized guar-containing formula. Cassia HPTC offers benefits as an alternative to traditional cationic polymers as conditioning agents or as an adjunct conditioner to decrease the amount of cationic polymer needed to achieve the desired conditioning performance. BACKGROUND Hair care products containing conditioning agents such as silicones, fatty esters, cationic surfactants, and cationic polymers in addition to anionic surfactants allow for convenient cleansing and conditioning from a single product. However, without effective deposition of the conditioning agents onto hair, a large proportion of the active components may be rinsed down the drain. Cationic deposition polymers resist removal from hair by water and can improve the resistance to rinsing of other ingredients (1). When concentrations in a shampoo are favorable, cationic polymers and anionic surfactants form a water-insoluble complex through charge-charge and hydrophobic interactions (2). This complex, known as a coacervate, deposits onto hair and helps to reduce the combing friction of wet hair, when hair is especially vulnerable to damage. To achieve sufficient deposition of conditioning Address all correspondence to J. A. Staudigel. 637
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