684 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE Polyquaternium-67 hair conditioning by, 421 and hair humidity resistance, 393 Polyquaternium-70 and hair humidity resistance, 393 Polysaccharides evaluation, 65 Preservatives 1,2-alkanediols, 205 overview, 574 Proteins extraction from hair, 527 and skin heat shock, 63 Proteolytic enzymes properties, 267 PVM/MA copolymer and split end mending, 451 Pyrrolidone carboxylic acid and hair properties, 347 REACH overview, 92, 93, 95, 96 Regulations Polish Cosmetic Act, 179 Polish advertising, 550 REACH, 92, 93, 95, 96 sunscreens, 177 Retinoids stability of, 667 Rheology polymer structure, 564 Rosemary oil skin penetration by, 245 Salicyloyl-phytosphingosine in skin repair, 665 Sebum peroxidation, 268 Semi-permanent hair dyes properties of, 268 Serine protease activity in stratum corneum, 540 Shampoos cationic cellulose polymers in, 375 Shaving axillary impact of, 268 Siloxanes overview, 572 Silver zeolite in deodorant, 62 Single fiber torsion pendulum and hair shear modulus, 329 Skin aging, 267 caffeine effects on, 174 changes - methodology, 177 color effects, 175, 547 heat shock proteins, 63 hyperpigmentation, 63 melanogenesis, 590 moisture barrier, 594 occlusion, 542 ozone effects on, 174, 588 pH effects, 174 pigmentation, 61 stress effects, 62 viscoelastic properties, 197 wrinkles, 175, 206 Skin aging fish polysaccharides, 65 overview, 537 Skin care herbals, 667 keratin peptides, 99 Skin hydration nanosystems, 268 testing, 176 Skin irritation with homecare products, 550 by sodium lauryl sulfate, 109 Skin lightening Artocarpus lakoocha heartwood, 62 measurement of, 664 by plant extracts, 35 Skin lipids in hormone replacement therapy, 173 Skin penetration by aminophylline, 245 by D&C red no. 17, 255 methodology of, 549 Skin pH measurement of, 54 7 Skin physiology moisture barrier, 594, 599 overview, 539 water uptake, 544 Skin sensitizers method, 178 Sodium cocoyl isethionate mildness of, 229 Sodium lauryl sulfate skin effects of, 109 Solvent black 5 and contact dermatitis, 209 Solvent black 27 and contact dermatitis, 209 Solvent black 34 and contact dermatitis, 209 Solvent blue 6 and contact dermatitis, 209 Solvent red 122 and contact dermatitis, 209 Spectrofluorimetry tranexamic acid, 215 SPF melanin, 596

Sphingomyelin in skin cosmetics, 56 Split ends mending of, 451 Squalene peroxidation, 268 Stability of clay facial masks, 45 Stratun corneum enzymes, 540 keratin structure in, 17 5 as moisture barrier, 594, 599 NMF, 586 ozone effects, 174 Stress effects on skin, 62 Sun exposure and sebum peroxidation, 268 Sunless tanning formulation, 541 Sun protection factor and melanin, 596 Sunscreens analysis of, 59 film-forming polymers in, 568 nanoparticles in, 174 regulations, 177 photostability of, 203 stability of, 179 water-resistant, 663 Surfactants cream stability, 552 hair dyes, 555 microemulsions, 554 surfactant-humectant systems, 599 Sweat glands overview, 539 Tanning products formulation, 541 Taurine and hair growth, 61 Testing adipocytes, 199 antiperspirants, 186, 188 evaluation of, 66 hair claims, 85 in home use test, 668 SUBJECT INDEX irritation, 519 ocular irritancy, 543 odorants, 201 skin hydration, 176 sunscreens, 203 wrinkles, 206 Theobroma cacoa extract anti-cellulite properties of, 267 Thickeners polymers, 178 Thioredoxin free radical effects of, 548 Titanium dioxide nanoparticles in, 17 4 Tomato extract anti-cellulite properties of, 267 Tranexamic acid analysis, 215 Transmission electron microscopy of medulla, 359 3,3,5-Trimethylcyclohexanols properties, 176 UV damage evaluation, 535 by 4-hydroxycinnamic acid, 560 Vernix caseosa cosmetic properties of, 173, 651 Vitamin A stability of, 667 Vitreoscilla filiformis extract evaluation, 62 Water mineral water vs tap water, 544 Wild yam extract anti-cellulite properties of, 267 Wool peptides hand care, 99 Wrinkle products adenosine, 176 formulation of, 14 7 peptides, 157 Wrinkles overview, 175, 537 X-ray diffraction of hair cuticle, 11 Ylang ylang oil skin penetration by, 245 685