682 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE moisturization, 393 oil effects, 135 penetration, 339 photodegradation, 66 porosity, 579 properties, 347, 485, 584 protein extraction, 519 split ends, 451 structure, 311, 536 water absorption, 135 Hair bleaching and hair damage, 90, 319, 477 Hair color cuticle damage by, 269 optical properties of, 283 Hair conditioning hair breakage, 477 cationic polymers, 421 Hair cosmetics and cuticle damage, 283 polymers, 56 Hair cuticle combing damage to, 548 light effects, 269, 295 scanning electron microscopy, 309, 665 structure, 11 Hair dyes chelating agents, 88, 495 and contact dermatitis, 209 and hair damage, 319, 495 mechanism of, 90 phosphate esters in, 83 scanning calorimetry, 621 semipermanent dyes, 268 surfactants in, 666 Hair growth and 6-O-glucose linoleate, 542 and taurine, 61 Hair photodamage melanin, 385 Hair spray polymers, 570 HC red 3 and contact dermatitis, 209 HC yellow 4 and contact dermatitis, 209 HC yellow 5 and contact dermatitis, 209 Heat shock proteins evaluation of, 63 Herbal materials and skin care, 667 Histidine and hair properties, 34 7 Homosalate analysis, 59 Hormone replacement therapy and skin lipids, 173 Horse chestnut extract anti-cellulite properties of, 267 Humectants surfactant-humectant systems, 599 Hydrolyzed silk PG-propyl methylsilanediol crosspolymer formulation, 435 Hydroxyacylphytosphingosine analysis, 59 4-Hydroxycinnamic acid skin irradiation by, 560 Hyperpigmentation in axillary skin, 63 In home use test overview, 668 Irritation testing, 519 Jojoba oil skin penetration of, 245 Keratin hair, 311 overview, 175 peptides for hand care, 99 structure, 175 water sorption by, 1 Keratin derivatives in hair care, 405 Lactic acid microbial properties, 70 Lilacin oil skin penetration by, 245 Liposomes formulation, 56 Liquid crystals stability, 541 Makeup formulation, 55 skin color, 175, 547 Mascara rheomorphological effects of, 556 Medulla in hair structure, 359 Melanin in hair damage, 3 85 SPF, 596 Melanogenesis inhibition by Cornus officinalis extract, 505 peptides in, 590 Melasma evaluation, 61 Metabolism D&C red no. 17, 255 Methods antiperspirant testing, 186, 188 arbutin, 35

SUBJECT INDEX atomic force microscopy, 195 contact angles, 663 contact dermatitis, 209 cuticle structure, 11 depigmenting agents, 664 differential scanning calorimetry, 90, 311, 319, 621 dynamic mechanical analyzer, 584 evaporimetry, 542 hair damage, 319, 536 hair properties, 393, 485, 579, 581, 584 hair structure, 536 infrared micro-spectroscopic imaging, 586 microbeam X-ray diffraction, 11 hair protein extraction, 519 natural moisturizing factor, 586 scanning electron microscopy, 309, 665 sensitizers, 178 single fiber torsion pendulum, 329 skin changes, 177 skin elasticity, 197 skin moisture barrier, 594 skin penetration, 549 skin pH, 547 skin surfactant-humectant systems, 599 split end mending, 451 tranexamic acid, 215 transmission electron microscopy, 359 UV damage, 535 water resistant sunscreens, 663 wrinkles, 206 Microbiology acne, 67 ethanol evaluation, 543 skin pH effects, 17 4 MMP-1 plant extract effects, 19 Nails overview, 664 and panthenol, 663 water sorption by, 1 Nanotechnology atomic force microscopy, 195 cerasome oxygen, 668 cosmetics, 180 formulation, 56, 69 niosome formation, 535 skin hydration, 268 sun care, 17 4 Natural moisturizing factor measurement, 586 Neurotrophins evaluation, 61 Niosomes synthesis of, 535 Octyl methoxycinnamate analysis, 59 Octyl salicylate analysis, 59 Ocular irritancy alternative test, 543 Odor deodorants, 184 testing, 201 Oils in hair treatment, 135 Olive oil skin penetration by, 245 Ozone skin effects of, 174, 588 Panthenol nail penetration by, 663 Peppermint oil skin penetration by, 245 Peptides antiaging products, 157 deiminases, 539 hand care, 99 melanogenesis, 590 structure, 339 Percutaneous penetration bood review, 53 Permanent waves hair damage by, 319 Phenylalanine hair properties, 34 7 Photodegradation hair, 66 Phytosphingosine acne, 540 Pigments alkyl trialkoxysilanes, 192 complex effects, 558 overview, 190 Plant extracts cellulite products, 60 inhibitory effects of, 19 Polymers cleansing products, 7 4 emulsions, 578 film-forming delivery systems, 562 formulation, 65 hair spray, 570 hair treatment, 56 PVM/MA copolymer, 451 rheology, 564 shampoo, 375 sunscreens, 568 thickeners, 178 Polyquaternium-10 hair humidity resistance, 393 and hair properties, 329 Polyquaternium-28 split end mending by, 451 683