SUBJECT INDEX atomic force microscopy, 195 contact angles, 663 contact dermatitis, 209 cuticle structure, 11 depigmenting agents, 664 differential scanning calorimetry, 90, 311, 319, 621 dynamic mechanical analyzer, 584 evaporimetry, 542 hair damage, 319, 536 hair properties, 393, 485, 579, 581, 584 hair structure, 536 infrared micro-spectroscopic imaging, 586 microbeam X-ray diffraction, 11 hair protein extraction, 519 natural moisturizing factor, 586 scanning electron microscopy, 309, 665 sensitizers, 178 single fiber torsion pendulum, 329 skin changes, 177 skin elasticity, 197 skin moisture barrier, 594 skin penetration, 549 skin pH, 547 skin surfactant-humectant systems, 599 split end mending, 451 tranexamic acid, 215 transmission electron microscopy, 359 UV damage, 535 water resistant sunscreens, 663 wrinkles, 206 Microbiology acne, 67 ethanol evaluation, 543 skin pH effects, 17 4 MMP-1 plant extract effects, 19 Nails overview, 664 and panthenol, 663 water sorption by, 1 Nanotechnology atomic force microscopy, 195 cerasome oxygen, 668 cosmetics, 180 formulation, 56, 69 niosome formation, 535 skin hydration, 268 sun care, 17 4 Natural moisturizing factor measurement, 586 Neurotrophins evaluation, 61 Niosomes synthesis of, 535 Octyl methoxycinnamate analysis, 59 Octyl salicylate analysis, 59 Ocular irritancy alternative test, 543 Odor deodorants, 184 testing, 201 Oils in hair treatment, 135 Olive oil skin penetration by, 245 Ozone skin effects of, 174, 588 Panthenol nail penetration by, 663 Peppermint oil skin penetration by, 245 Peptides antiaging products, 157 deiminases, 539 hand care, 99 melanogenesis, 590 structure, 339 Percutaneous penetration bood review, 53 Permanent waves hair damage by, 319 Phenylalanine hair properties, 34 7 Photodegradation hair, 66 Phytosphingosine acne, 540 Pigments alkyl trialkoxysilanes, 192 complex effects, 558 overview, 190 Plant extracts cellulite products, 60 inhibitory effects of, 19 Polymers cleansing products, 7 4 emulsions, 578 film-forming delivery systems, 562 formulation, 65 hair spray, 570 hair treatment, 56 PVM/MA copolymer, 451 rheology, 564 shampoo, 375 sunscreens, 568 thickeners, 178 Polyquaternium-10 hair humidity resistance, 393 and hair properties, 329 Polyquaternium-28 split end mending by, 451 683

684 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE Polyquaternium-67 hair conditioning by, 421 and hair humidity resistance, 393 Polyquaternium-70 and hair humidity resistance, 393 Polysaccharides evaluation, 65 Preservatives 1,2-alkanediols, 205 overview, 574 Proteins extraction from hair, 527 and skin heat shock, 63 Proteolytic enzymes properties, 267 PVM/MA copolymer and split end mending, 451 Pyrrolidone carboxylic acid and hair properties, 347 REACH overview, 92, 93, 95, 96 Regulations Polish Cosmetic Act, 179 Polish advertising, 550 REACH, 92, 93, 95, 96 sunscreens, 177 Retinoids stability of, 667 Rheology polymer structure, 564 Rosemary oil skin penetration by, 245 Salicyloyl-phytosphingosine in skin repair, 665 Sebum peroxidation, 268 Semi-permanent hair dyes properties of, 268 Serine protease activity in stratum corneum, 540 Shampoos cationic cellulose polymers in, 375 Shaving axillary impact of, 268 Siloxanes overview, 572 Silver zeolite in deodorant, 62 Single fiber torsion pendulum and hair shear modulus, 329 Skin aging, 267 caffeine effects on, 174 changes - methodology, 177 color effects, 175, 547 heat shock proteins, 63 hyperpigmentation, 63 melanogenesis, 590 moisture barrier, 594 occlusion, 542 ozone effects on, 174, 588 pH effects, 174 pigmentation, 61 stress effects, 62 viscoelastic properties, 197 wrinkles, 175, 206 Skin aging fish polysaccharides, 65 overview, 537 Skin care herbals, 667 keratin peptides, 99 Skin hydration nanosystems, 268 testing, 176 Skin irritation with homecare products, 550 by sodium lauryl sulfate, 109 Skin lightening Artocarpus lakoocha heartwood, 62 measurement of, 664 by plant extracts, 35 Skin lipids in hormone replacement therapy, 173 Skin penetration by aminophylline, 245 by D&C red no. 17, 255 methodology of, 549 Skin pH measurement of, 54 7 Skin physiology moisture barrier, 594, 599 overview, 539 water uptake, 544 Skin sensitizers method, 178 Sodium cocoyl isethionate mildness of, 229 Sodium lauryl sulfate skin effects of, 109 Solvent black 5 and contact dermatitis, 209 Solvent black 27 and contact dermatitis, 209 Solvent black 34 and contact dermatitis, 209 Solvent blue 6 and contact dermatitis, 209 Solvent red 122 and contact dermatitis, 209 Spectrofluorimetry tranexamic acid, 215 SPF melanin, 596