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]. Cosmet. Sci., 59, 399-418 (September/October 2008) A study of the chemical composition of traditional eye cosmetics ("kohls") used in Qatar and Yemen ANDREW D. HARDY, Centre for Medical History, School of Humanities and Social Sciences, University of Exeter, Exeter EX4 4R], Devon, UK ALEXANDER J. FARRANT, Department of Chemistry, School of BioSciences, University of Exeter, Exeter EX4 4QD, Devon, UK GAVYN ROLLINSON, Camborne School of Mines, University of Exeter in Cornwall, Tremough Campus, Penryn TRIO 9EZ, Cornwall, UK PETER BARSS, Faculty of Medicine & Health Sciences, United Arab Emirates University, PO Box 17666, Al Ain, United Arab Emirates and RAGINI VAISHNAV, College of Medicine, Sultan Qaboos University, Box 35, Al Khod 123, Sultanate of Oman. Accepted for publication February 29, 2008. Synopsis This study looks at the chemical composition of traditional eye cosmetics ("kohls") used in Qatar and Yemen. Of especial interest was how many samples in each country contain the toxic element lead. In Qatar 19 observably different kohl samples were obtained, and in Yemen ten such samples obtained. The analytical techniques of scanning electron microscopy (SEM) and X-ray powder diffraction (XRPD) were used to study the samples. For the samples from Qatar, six of the 19 (32%) contained galena (lead sulfide, PbS)-all as the main component. However, for the samples from Yemen, five of the ten (50%) samples contained galena as the main component, with another three having it present as a minor component. Overall, the other main components were found to be: amorphous carbon (3), iron oxides (hematite, Fe20 3 and goethite, FeO(OH)) (1), quartz (SiO2) (1), sassolite (H3BO3) (5), talc (Mg3Si4O 10 (OH)2) (1), and zincite (ZnO) (7). INTRODUCTION As part of continuing studies on Middle Eastern traditional eye cosmetics ("kohls"), we have looked at the chemical composition of such cosmetics available in Qatar and Yemen. Of especial interest is the determination of those containing a lead compound (usually lead sulfide), and comparison of the percentages found of such samples in these two countries. It is thought that traditional eye cosmetics are used mainly by the older generations in both Qatar and Yemen, the youngest (e.g., student) generation being more inclined to use the imported Western-made eye cosmetics. Also, when the kohls are used in both 399
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