448 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE chromatography with an IonPac CSSA column and a post-column reaction system can be used for fast and accurate determination of water-soluble heavy metals in cosmetic samples. Consequently, this process is fast and sensitive, with the simultaneous deter­ mination of heavy metals, and it provides accurate results due to rare interference, which can improve the safety and quality control process for cosmetic products. REFERENCES (1) P. N. Nesterenko and P. Jones, Single-column method of chelation ion chromatography for the analysis of trace metals in complex samples, J. Chromatogr. A, 770, 129-13 5 (1997). (2) E. Sainio, R. Jolanki, E. Hakala, and L. Kanerva, Metals and arsenic in eye shadows, Contact Dermatitis, 42, 5-10 (2000). (3) J. Hostynek, Chromium, cobalt, copper and iron: Metals in personal-care products, Dermatologic View, ll5, 52-65 (2000). (4) H. Maibach and T. Menne, Nickel and the Skin: Immunology and Toxicology (CRC Press, Boca Raton, FL, 1989), pp. 223. (5) H. Kerosuo, A. Kullaa, E. Kerosuo, L. Kanerva, and A. Hensten-Pettersen, Nickel allergy in adoles­ cents in relation to orthodontic treatment and piercing of ears, Am.]. Orthodon. Dentofac. Orthoped., 109, 148-154 (1996). (6) W. Zeng, Y. Chen, H. Cui, F. Wu, Y. Zhu, and S. J. Fritz, Single-column method of ion chroma­ tography for the determination of common cations and some transition metals,]. Chromatogr. A, 1118, 68-72 (2006). (7) M. R. Cave, 0. Butler, R. N. Chenery, J.M. Cook, M. S. Cresser, and D. L. Miles, Atomic spectrom­ etry update. Environmental analysis, J. Anal. Atom. Spectrom., 16, 194-235 (2001). (8) G. L. Long and J. D. Winefordner, Reduction of electronic noise in inductively coupled plasma atomic emission and fluorescence spectrometric measurements, Anal. Chem., 55, 1432-1434 (1983). (9) N. Cardellicchio, S. Cavalli, P. Ragone, and J.M. Riviello, New strategies for determination of transition metals by complexation ion-exchange chromatography and post column reaction,]. Chro­ matogr. A, 847, 251-259 (1996). (10) P. L. Buldini, S. Cavalli, A. Mevoli, and E. Milella, Application of ion chromatography to the analysis of high-purity CdTe,J. Chromatogr. A, 739, 131-137 (1996). (11) H. T. Lu, S. F. Mou, U. Uan, S. Y. Tong, and J.M.Riviello, On-line pretreatment and determination of Pb, Cu and Cd at the µg 1 - i level in drinking water by chelation ion chromatography,]. Chromatogr. A, 800, 247-255 (1998). (12) P. Jones, K. Barron, and L. Ebdon, A dithizone post-column detector for the high-performance liquid chromatographic determination of trace metals, Anal. Chim. Acta, 149, 39-46 (1983).

]. Cosmet. Sci.J 59, 449-450 (September/October 2008) Abstracts Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists Japan Vol. 42, No. 2, 2008* Effect of Birch Betula platyphylla Sukatchev var. japonica Hara Sap on Cultured Human Epidermal Keratinocyte Differentia1ion Masahiro Moriyama*, Eiji Naru*, Yuko Misaki**, Akinobu Hayashi* *KOSE Coropration Research Development Product Research Laboratories, 48-18, Sakae-cho, Kita-ku, Tokyo 114-0005, Japan **KOSE Corporation Research Development Product Development Laboratories, 1-18-4, Azusawa, Itabashi-ku, Tokyo 174-0051,Japan The beauty of ideal skin texture is closely associated with dermal moisture factors. The key factors of skin moisture are NMF natural moisturizing factor and skin normal barrier function. The former keeps surface moisture, and the later protects from excess water loss. So we have searched for the ingredient that improves these factors. Birch sap has been widely used as an effective drink for anti-fatigue and anti-stress. However, the effect of birch sap on skin as a cosmetic agents has not been known entirely. In this study, we investigated the effects of birch Betula platyphylla Sukatchev var. japonica Hara sap on human skin. Birch sap induced epidermal keratinocyte differentiation properties in vitro. We assessed two epidermal differentiation agents. Filaggrin is a precursor protein ofNMF, and involucrin is one of the precursor proteins of the comified cell envelope CE , which is related to normal barrier function. We have evaluated the production of these proteins where birch sap was applied to human normal keratinocytes. Birch sap not only increased mRNA expression of filaggrin and involucrin, but also accelerated these proteins production. Otherwise, birch sap did not have any influence for IL-6 production, which is related to inflammatory and aberrant keratinocyte proliferation. The results of induced differentiation properties on birch sap-treated keratinocytes are very similar to the differentiation induced by calcium in vitro. This similarity suggested that birch sap has a differentiation inducible property on in vitro cultured keratinocytes. Our study suggested that birch sap is able to control both moisturizing and barrier-related factor production. From these effects, birch sap provides appropriate epidermal functions and skin homeostasis, and revealed itself as a very useful ingrediert in the cosmetic field. Noninvasive Three-Dimensional Analysis of In Vivo Human Skin Using the Next-Generation Optical Coherence Tomograph OCT, Fourier Domain OCT Shingo Sakai Basic Research Laboratory, Kanebo Cosmetics, Ltd. 5- 13-28, Kotobuki-cho, Odawara 250-0002, Japan Two-dimensional image by conventional optical coherence tomography OCT is very useful in dermatology. Recently, Fourier domain OCT FD-OCT , which included spectral domain OCT SD-OCT and swept source OCT SS-OCT , has been developed as a new modality that produces fast and highly sensitive OCT images. These new OCTs enable real-time, video rate cross-sectional imaging and three-dimensional analysis. Moreover, polarization sensitive SD-OCT provides three dimensional information about collagen structure in the skin. Noninvasive in vivo three dimensional analysis offers a new way to investigate the relationship between surface morphology wrinkles, textures, and facial pores and the internal structure of the skin. * These abstracts appear as they were originally published. They have been edited by the journal of Cosmetic Science. 449