450 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE A Novel Water-Based Sunscreen Gel using a Polymer­ Zinc Oxide Composite Eiji Takahashi*, Tetsuya Oikawa*, Hirokazu Iyanagi*, Kunihiko Mohri *, Katsuhiko Nakamae** *R&D Department, POLA Chemical Industries, Inc., 27-1, Takashimadai, Kanagawa-ku , Yokoham a 221- 0833, Japan **Japan Synchrotron Radiation Research Institute, 1-1-1, Kouto, Sayo-cho, Sayo-gun, Hyogo 679-5198, Japan Conventional sunscreen products generally must strike a compromise between efficacy and product feel the hydrophobic ingredients that provide the sun protection generally impart an unpleasant, greasy feel and the greater the SPF rating, the worse the greasy feel. We tested an idea that a water-based sunscreen gel formulation containing inorganic UV absorbers would provide an effective way to address these problems. Our goal was to find a way to disperse inorganic sunscreen materials in water and to incorporate them into a water-based gel which would provide a more pleasant product feel. After extensive research we discovered a polymer zinc oxide composite P-ZnO with high UV protective effect and high dispersibility in water. In dried powdered form, P-ZnO can be easily dispersed in water. P-ZnO makes it possible to formulate a gel-type sunscreen, which is not possible using commercially available inorganic powders. The composite size of P-ZnO is about 500 nm and its structure consists of a dense aggregate of nano-ZnO having a size distribution in the 5-10 nm range and amorphous layers of poly acrylic acid coating zinc oxide to control the particle growth, block surface activity and prevent aggregation. The water-based P­ ZnO sunscreen gel offers UV protection comparable to conventional products in a delivery vehicle that is much more pleasant to use. Design and Development of an Innovative Hybrid Powder Based on a Computer Simulation and Its Application to Base Make Up Products Katsuki Ogawa*, Katsuhiko Yagi*, Hideo Hata*, Yoshimasa Miura*, Koichi Nakamura*, Sadaki Takata*, Kazumi Fujima** *Shiseido Research Center, 2-2-1, Hayabuchi, Tsuzuki­ ku, Yokohama 224-8558, Japan **Faculty of Engineering, Yamanashi University, 4-4-37, Takeda, Koufu 400-8510, Japan An innovative hybrid powder prepared through computer simulation allowed a new foundation to be developed having a fine, smooth texture that has never been achieved before. The optical structure/design of the powder was based on the results of measurements and analyses conducted on the optical characteristics of a baby's fine skin that is the envy of many women. In order to achieve the optimal optical characteristics the Finite Differential Time Domain FDTD method to solve Maxwell's differential equation by difference and time domain was applied to the computer simulation method. For the synthesis of the hybrid powder based on the optical model, a proprietary shape regulation coating technology was used, in which flaky substrates were coated with micro-spherical forms of barium sulfate crystals. The developed hybrid powder exhibited optical characteristics that showed a significant diffusion characteristic in the visible light region. The foundation containing this powder could conceal pores, fine wrinkles, freckles, and spots, and provided a fine smooth texture owing to its microscopic reflection characteristics that has never been available from a conventional foundation. Treatment of Dilated Pores in the Ladies Clinic of the Department of Dermatology in Kinki University Hospital Natsuko Konishi Department of Dermatology, Kinki University School of Medicine, 377-2, Ohno-Higashi, Osaka-Sayama 589- 8511 Japan Recently, many Japanese females have turned their attention to dilated pores. In our clinic, the number of female patients with complaints of dilated pores have increased. For these patients, we have shown the way of skin care firstly. Then, we have selected laser and IPL (intense pulsed light) therapies. In this paper, I introduce treatments of dilated pores in the ladies clinic of the Dermatology Department in Kinki University Hospital. Makeup Inhibits Reduction of Reactive Oxygen Scavenging Enzyme Activity Induced by Mental Stress Takumi Tochio*, Eriko Morichi*, Osamu Hirose*, Satoru Nakata*, Junko Kuze** *Research Laboratories, Nippon Menard Cosmetic Co., Ltd., 2-7, Torimi-cho, Nishi-ku, Nagoya 451-0071, Japan **Faculty of Social and Information Sciences, Nippon Fukushi University, Okuda, Mihama-cho, Hannda 475-0012 Japan Recent studies showed that makeup reduces mental stress, indicated by not only psychological but also physiological values. In this study, we examined the relationship between mental stress and the activity of reactive oxygen scavenging enzymes such as superoxide dismutase SOD and catalase CAT, and the effect of the mental stress reduction by makeup on the activity of reactive oxygen scavenging enzymes. In experiment 1, we measured the con:entration of cortisol and activity of SOD in saliva after the additional of mental stress. In this result, the concentration of cortisol increased and the activity of SOD decreased significantly. As we examined the effect of makeup following the mental stress addition in experiment 2, the concentration of cortisol decreased and the activity of SOD and CAT increased. Moreover, we showed a decrease in the anxiety state and increase in spiritual health as the psychological effects. Those results suggest that makeup psychologically canceled anxiety and physiologically inhibited the reduction of reactive oxygen scavenging enzyme activity induced by the mental stress.

]. Cosmet. Sci., 59, 451-453 (September/October 2008) Abstracts International Journal of Cosmetic Science Vol. 30, No. 3, 2008* Evaluation of the effects of a preparation containing asiaticoside on periocular wrinkles of human volunteers J. Lee*, E. Jung•, H. Lee_, Y. Seo_, J. Koh_ and D. Park* *Biospectrum Life Science Institute, Gyunggi Do and Dermapro Skin Research Center, Seoul, Korea Deokhoon Park, Biospectrum Life Science Institute, SK Ventium 101-701, Dangjung Dong, Gunpo City, 436-776 Gyunggi Do, Korea. Tel.: +82 3 I 436 2090 fax: +82 31 436 0605 e-mail: pdh@biospectrum.com Skin ageing is accompanied by wrinkle formation. In particular, periorbital wrinkle formation is a relatively early sign of skin ageing. We evaluated the effects of a preparation containing asiaticoside on the periorbital wrinkles of a group of volunteers. The effectiveness of the active compound, asiaticoside, in a base-cream preparation for the treatment of temporal periorbital wrinkles was tested on 27 female volunteers as follows: the women applied the cream twice a day to the region of interest for 12 weeks. Same women also applied a vehicle control cream to the periorbital skin around the other eye. Negative replicas were taken of the periorbital skin before treatment and 4, 8, and 12 weeks after application of the cream. The results were evaluated by semi-automated morphometry of the plastic replicas. After 12 weeks of treatment, there was a significant improvement of the periorbital wrinkles in majority of the volunteers who tested the cream. Of the 27 women examined with periocular wrinkles, 65% showed an improvement at the end of the treatment. In three cases, the improvement was 100% (disappearance of the crow's feet), 75% ± 1.97 and 79% ± 2.82. On six eyes, there was no significant change after the treatment. With 12 weeks of treatment with the asiaticoside-containing cream, most of the periorbital wrinkles were attenuated to some degree, and some women experienced a significant improvement of the periorbital wrinkles on one of their eyes. Development of curcuminoids hydrogel patch using chitosan from various sources as controlled-release matrix P. Boriwanwattanarak•, K. lngkaninan _, N. Khorana_ and J. Viyoch*,_ *Department of Pharmaceutical Technology, Faculty of Pharmaceutical Sciences, Naresuan University, _Department of Pharmaceutical Chemistry and Pharmacognosy, Faculty of Pharmaceutical Sciences, Naresuan University and _Cosmetic and Natural Product Research Center, Naresuan University, Phitsanulok 65000, Thailand Jarupa Viyoch, Department of Pharmaceutical Technology, Faculty of Pharmaceutical Sciences, Naresuan University, Phitsanulok 65000, Thailand. Tel.: 66-055-621000-4, ext 1875 fax: 66-055-621057 e-mail: jarupav@nu.ac.th, j�r�m�v.@b9.tt:i:i.t.l.iL:9.m In this study, we developed the hydogel patch containing curcuminoids for application in cosmetic purpose. The powder of curcuminoids extracted from rhizome of Curcuma longa Linn. was first formulated into o/w microemulsions before incorporating into the polymer solution. The polymer solutions consisted of chitosan derived from various sources or the blended chitosan starch. We found that chitosan from squid pen gave the patch with highest strength and flexibility. After incorporation of curcuminoids microemulsion into the polymer solution of squid chitosan in ratio of 1 I by weight, values of tensile,strength and per cent elongation at break of the obtained patch decreased (from 4.55 ± 0.41 N mm)2 to 2.26 ± 0.01 N mm)2 for tensile strength and from 40.27 ± 1.46% to 29.65 ± 2.77% for elongation at break). The DSC thermogram of the squid patch containing curcuminoids implied non-crystalline structure of polymeric network, corresponding to porous characteristics of the patch surface. The results showed that the curcumin content remained at a concentration of 96% and 40% of the initial content after being kept at 4_C and room * These abstracts appear as they were originally published. They have been edited by the journal of Cosmetic Science. 451