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J. Cosmet. Sci., 76.1, 25–31 (January/February 2025)
*Address all correspondence to Michael J. Fevola, mfevola@inolex.com
Toward Authentically Green Cosmetic Ingredients: Life Cycle
Thinking to Improve Sustainability From Cradle to Grave
MICHAEL J. FEVOLA, LISA GANDOLFI AND AUDREY WESSON
INOLEX, Philadelphia, PA, USA (M.F., L.G., A.W.)
Accepted for publication January 28, 2025.
Synopsis
The purpose of this article is to identify key points in the ingredient life cycle where sustainability
improvements can contribute to holistically reducing the overall impact of material. These points will be
articulated by providing examples of ingredient innovation that have been driven by the application of Green
Chemistry, Green Engineering, and sustainable design principles.
INTRODUCTION
Sustainability has become a crucial focus in the sourcing, manufacturing, and supply of
ingredients, with the aim of maintaining health, reducing negative environmental and
societal impacts, and promoting long term ecological conservation. The ingredient life
cycle encompasses the stages from raw material sourcing to end-of-life fate. The concept
of the “circular economy” emphasizes the aspiration of continually (re)using resources
to minimize waste and to increase sustainability. By examining examples of ingredient
innovation influenced by the application of life cycle and environmental impact thinking,
we aim to highlight practical strategies for creating a more sustainable future.
THE PHILOSOPHY OF SUSTAINABILITY
The philosophy of sustainability is more than just the sum of its parts, and designers
and manufacturers of certified natural ingredients must consider how product life cycles
integrate to bring holistic value and improve sustainability profiles across ingredient lines.
It is necessary to consider the complete useful life from feedstock sourcing to ingredient
manufacture, to ingredient shipping and handling, to finished product manufacture, to
consumer use, to end-of-life, and reincarnation if possible (Figure 1).

26 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE
FEEDSTOCK SOURCING
Using responsibly managed abundant resources and sustainable agriculture and forestry
practices are foundational to minimizing the environmental impact at the start of the
ingredient life cycle. Broadly, this includes utilizing biobased and renewable feedstocks
from sustainably grown plants and ensuring that those feedstocks are traceable with reduced
environmental and social risks within the supply chain. For example, sustainability may
be enhanced by regenerative farming techniques that enhance soil health and preserve
biodiversity.
INGREDIENT MANUFACTURING
The manufacturing phase offers significant opportunities for sustainability improvements
through:
• Adopting energy-efficient processes that reduce energy consumption and greenhouse gas
emissions.
• Incorporating Green Chemistry1 and Green Engineering2 principles to minimize the use
of hazardous substances and to create safer products.
• Reducing waste generation by optimizing processes and recycling byproducts.
Sustainability design and manufacturing extend the principles of chemical engineering
using a systems-thinking approach to incorporate awareness of maintaining the balance of
the environment and the ecosystems that depend upon it. It is not a major departure from
chemical engineering for instance, the same material and energy balances still guide the
design. Moreover, by reducing carbon footprints and responsibly using natural resources, it
may be possible to bring overall costs down.3
We will demonstrate the concepts that underpin the design of ingredients for sustainability
by considering Brassica and Castor as alternatives to palm-based feedstocks.
Brassica. Most seed oils derived from plants of the genus Brassica, including Brassica napus
(rapeseed) and Brassica juncea (Indian mustard), inherently possess a C
18
–C
22
triglyceride
composition, which provides notable benefits in hair care.4 This natural oil offers an
abundant sustainable alternative to petro-based or palm-based feedstocks.
Feedstock Sourcing
Renewable biobased feedstocks with a
traceable and sustainable supply chain
Product Manufacture
Improved manufacturing efficiency from
non-hazardous and easy-to-process
ingredients
Ingredient Manufacture
Efficient use of energy and water with
minimal emissions and waste generation
Consumer Use
Safe, gentle, and non-toxic ingredients
that support compelling claims with
perceivable benefits
Ingredient Transportation
Reduced transportation impacts from a
global supply network and high active
content level ingredients
End of Life
Ingredients that are biodegradable, non-
persistent, and non-toxic to aquatic life
Figure 1. Key stages in the ingredient life cycle.