27 Green Cosmetic Ingredients
Brassica napus (commonly called rapeseed) is a yellow flowering member of the genus
Brassica, which also includes other species of nutrient-rich plants such as broccoli, cabbage,
kale, and cauliflower (Figure 2). Cultivation of the rapeseed plant does not require the use
of herbicides due to its dense growth pattern. Moreover, the high-erucic acid rapeseed oil
used for non-food applications is extracted from harvested seeds without the use of solvents.
Rapeseed cultivation offered reduced deforestation risk and reduced human rights/labor
violations risk compared to the palm industry. This demonstrates how ESG risks can be
reduced or avoided by strategic sourcing and design of ingredients.
Oleochemical products that can be produced from the triglyceride oils of Brassica genus plants
include hydrogenated rapeseed oil, Brassica fatty acids, Brassica fatty alcohol, and glycerin. 5
The oleochemical products from Brassica serve as a platform feedstock for a portfolio of
sustainable ingredients that function as conditioners, texturizers, and co-emulsifiers for
hair, skin, and makeup products, as shown by the examples in Figure 3.
Example: Brassicamidopropyl Dimethylamine as a sustainable innovative hair conditioner.
Brassicamidopropyl Dimethylamine is a patented amidoamine synthesized by a one-
step transamination of hydrogenated rapeseed oil, which provides energy efficiency and
reduces global warming potential by eliminating the steps of hydrolytic fatty acid splitting
Figure 2. Oleochemical products from Brassica Napus (Rapeseed) Oil.
Figure 3. Brassica serves as a platform feedstock for many ingredients.

28 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE
and distillation to fractionate and isolate fatty acids and glycerin. Brassicamidopropyl
Dimethylamine is non-toxic to aquatic life, non-irritating to skin or eyes, and is readily
biodegradable.6
The fatty acyl composition of Brassica napus oil comprises approximately 40% stearoyl (C
18 ),
10% Arachidoyl (C
20 ),and 45% Benehyl (C
22 ),with minor amounts of lower and higher
fatty acyl chains, e.g. C
16 and C
24 .Brassicamidopropyl Dimethylamine uses the entirety of
this distribution to provide cationic conditioning agents that self-associate to form desired
lamellar mesophase structures which provide consumer-perceivable performance benefits
on hair.
Moreover, Brassicamidopropyl Dimethylamine is a pH-responsive tertiary amine, which is
only cationic when protonated at acidic pH values. This transient cationicity differentiates
amidoamines from typical quaternary ammonium-based conditioning ingredients that bear
a permanent cationic charge regardless of ambient pH. Quaternary ammonium compounds
have been reported to be a chemical class of emerging concern. 7
Castor. Sustainable castor oil yields many useful starting materials that enable sustainable
alternatives to silicones and petro-based ingredients for skin, sun, and hair care (Figure 4).
SYNTHESIS: UTILIZING CONDENSATION AS A CLASSICAL CHEMISTRY FOR
GREENER PRODUCTS
Classical condensation chemistry is inherently green, and esterification and related processes
(for example, transesterification and polyesterification) demonstrate strong alignment with
the 12 Principles of Green Chemistry8 (Figure 5) as follows:
• Effective use of renewable plant-based feedstocks.
• Safe, solvent-free “one pot” processes.
• Catalytic processes: self-catalyzed or with added catalyst.
• Minimal waste: the only byproduct is water, and this translates to a high atom economy.
• Bulk form (100% active) products reduce transportation costs.
• Nontoxic to humans and the environment.
• Highly amenable to the synthesis of biodegradable products.
Figure 4. Sustainable castor oil yields many useful starting materials.