104 JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS SCIENTIFIC SESSION IV POLYMERS Polymers in cosmetics--An overview of recent commercial product Robert L. Raymond, B.S., Firmenich, Inc., P.O. Box 5880, Princeton, NJ 08536 As moderator the author will present an overview of the cosmetic new product activity in recent years using various functional polymers. Product cate- gories such as hair care, skin care, suntan/sunscreen products, make-up, shaving preparations, etc. will be reviewed as a general introduction to the tech- nical papers that will be presented in the technical session. Silicon polymers in skin-care products Helen M. Klimisch, M.S., Stefan F. Rentsch, B.S., and Grish Chandra, Ph.D., Dow Corning Corp., Box 994-Mailstop C4ID01, Midland, MI 48640 Since the first silicone-containing lotion was intro- duced over 30 years ago, silicones have grown in- creasingly important in skin-care formulations. With the advances in silicone chemistry, many dif- ferent structures and compositions have been de- veloped. We were interested in identifying what benefits these new materials might have for care of skin. To this end, an Attentuated Total Reflectance (ATR) method using Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (FTIR) was developed to quantitate the level of silicones on human skin. This methodology will be discussed. In addition, data will be pre- sented demonstrating the utility of this technique in the study of structure/performance relationships of silicone polymer systems applied to the skin. Methods for evaluating new hair care polymers Stephen C. Johnson, Ph.D., GAF Corporation, 1361 Alps Road, Wayne, NJ 07470 The ability of the formulating chemist to develop new efficacious marketable products is limited by the raw materials available. Synthetic chemists at the raw material suppliers have the ability to create a wide variety of new compounds. They are limited by their understanding of the needs and desires of the formulating chemist. The challenge, therefore, exists to have meaningful communications between the cosmetic manufacturers and the raw material suppliers at the chemist level. By doing this, spe- cific product goals and relevant screening proce- dures can be established for the synthetic chemist. The purpose of this presentation is to describe sev- eral of the screening tests used to design new and efficacious hair care polymers. Cationic polymer substantivity measurements using different in vitro animal skin models William L. Klein, B.A., and Arthur R. Sykes, B.S., Calgon Corporation, P.O. Box 2000, Rahway, NJ 07065 An extensive number of studies were performed to assess the substantivity of high molecular weight poly-(dimethyldially-ammonium chloride) and its acrylamide copolymer to keratin. This effort was intended to advance understanding of the behavior of these highly charged, cationic polymers under realistic cosmetic use conditions. 14C-tagged polymer systems tested included: aqueous solutions, liquid surfactants, and anionic and nonionic lotions and creams. The primary focus of this paper is di- rected toward results obtained from in vitro studies conducted on the outermost skin surfaces of hairless mice, fetal pigs/calves, and adult pigs. The results indicate that both poly-(dimethyldially-ammonium chloride) and its acrylamide copolymer are substan- tive to the stratum comeurn of all animal models tested under realistic use conditions and that sub- stantivity levels are affected by polymer concentra- tion, vehicle, exposure time, rinse solution, and temperature. Skin care applications based on the physico- chemical properties of hyaluronic acid Philip A. Band, Ph.D., and Endre A. Balazs, M.D., Biomatrix, Inc., 65 Railroad Ave., Ridge- field, NJ 07657 Elastoviscous molecular networks of hyaluronk: acid (HA) hold water, maintain turgor, and provide vis- coelasticity in healthy human skin. Using a medical technology known as Matrix Engineering, these unique biological properties can be preserved in HA-based materials. Matrix Engineering exploits the beneficial attributes of high molecular weight HA in topical skin care products. Methods for mea- suring the dynamic rheological properties of HA preparations and relating these to cosmetic end ben- efits will be presented.