ABSTRACTS 289 shampoo. The effect of the anionic structure on foam, irritation, and viscosity is shown. Compar- isons are made with alkyl ether sulfates and alkyl ether sulfonates in general purpose shampoo and special purpose hair relaxers. The effects of amides, amine oxides, and betaines on these systems are il- lustrated. The goal is that through better under- standing of the surfactant choices ava•ilable, the for- mulator can more efficiently select the best surfac- rant system for the particular product being designed. Formulation optimization: A tool for product development Nicholas G. Lordi, Ph.D., College of Pharmacy, Rutgers University, Piscataway, NJ 08854 Formulation optimization is the process of deter- mining the quantities of ingredients and the process variables which result in a product which meets a predefined set of specifications. Two optimization strategies will be discussed: the simplex method, which is an example of sequential search plans, and Box-Wilson experimental designs as examples of si- multaneous search plans. In the latter case, the ob- jective is to construct a mathematical model of the formulation which can be used as a basis for identi- fying alternative optimal formulations as well as for production troubleshooting. Methods of data anal- ysis and interpretation, including multidimensional simplex determination, step-wise regression, con- tour analysis, and principal component analysis, will be illustrated using software packages designed for personal computers. SESSION D BIOTECHNOLOGY The value of computational tools for product design Frank Mornany, Ph.D., Polygen Corporation, 100 Fifth Avenue, Waltham, MA 02154 Today, high resolution graphics allow the scientist to visualize molecular interactions, both within and between complex biomolecules. Modern molecular mechanics allows one to quantirate such interac- tions. The embrace of molecules to their respective receptors or binding sites provides significant in- sights into their physiologic modes of action and gives critical information as to what molecular modifications one should make to enhance or change the activity of a promising new product. Graphics and computational tools useful in product development in the area of peptides and proteins will be described, and advances being made to create computational tools of commercial utility will be examined. Agricultural applications in plant biotech- nology David A. Evans, DNA Plant Technology Corpora- tion, 2611 Branch Pike, Cinnaminson, NJ 08077 The biotechnology tools of plant cell culture have tremendous potential for crop improvement. This collection of techniques can be directed toward pro- duction of identical plants or to induce variability. Plants can be propagated from leaf sections, anthers, meristems, or even isolated single cells and protoplasts. When integrated with conventional crop improvement programs, techniques of cell cul- ture could prove useful through (10) •ic,•al propa- gation in vitro, (2) development of new plant vari- eties via somaclonal variation, (3) development of new parents and breeding lines using gametoclonal variation, (4) production of new hybrids via proto- plast fusion, and (5) development of new varieties using recombinant DNA. These tools permit the induction and control of genetic variability--the cornerstone of plant breeding. By successfully in- ducing new variation, breeding lines can be selected with altered characteristics of value to food pro- cessors or with unique consumer attributes. For ex- ample, genetically modified plants with altered oil or protein content, increased total solids, or im- proved secondary product synthesis would be bene- ficial to the food industry. Even if only the less technical methods of clonal propagation and soma- clonal variation are utilized, biotechnology should have a tremendous impact on crop improvement in the near future. SESSION E PRODUCT DELIVERY SYSTEMS FTIR analysis of cationic polymers on human hair Rimas S. Budrys, Ph.D., Nalco Chemical Co., 1601 W. Diehi Road, Naperville, IL 60566 The use of Fourier Transform Infrared (FTIR) Spec- troscopy of the study of human hair surfaces treated with cationic polymers is discussed. The results ob- tained indicate that one can use this method to quantitatively determine the amount of polymer adsorbed onto the hair surface and to characterize the bonding present between the hair and the polymer. Studies show that some cationic polymers actually interact chemically with human hair while other cationic polymers only form coatings on hair. FTIR analyses show that the amount of polymer de- posited on the hair surface is independent of

290 JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS bonding mechanism. This method has real world application for the cosmetic chemist since FTIR can be used to show the presence or absence of polymer build-up on hair and the effect of pH on the adher- ence of cationic polymers to human hair. New polymeric microsponges can deliver emol- lients to the skin both as a sustained release and on demand Martin Katz, Ph.D., Advanced Polymer Systems, Inc., 3696C Haven Avenue, Redwood City, CA 94063, and Sergio Nacht, Ph.D., Vicks Research Center, Shelton, CT 06484 A novel polymeric, spherical, microscopic sponge has been created which can entrap active and func- tional ingredients such as emollients within a struc- tural network of microspores. These emollients are available both for sustained and demand release by pressure or diffusion. The microscopic sponges pos- sess individual structural integrity, so that they are substantially non-collapsible upon removal of the active ingredient. A typical emollient agent--mineral oil--was en- trapped in these Microsponges and the in vitro re- lease was demonstrated by radiochemical methods. When these particles were then incorporated into an oil-in-water emulsion, the sustained and demand release of the emollient from these microscopic sponges was established by the prolonged and re- peated softening effect on human skin, as measured by the gas bearing electrodynamometer (GBE) tech- nique. The advantages over an equivalent lotion containing the emollient encapsulated in a standard urea-formaldehyde resin were demonstrated by the GBE as well as with consumer panels. Opportunistic states of water in cosmetic emul- sions and skin Harry R. Elden, Ph.D., Institute for Skin Re- search, Xienta, Inc., Bernville, PA 19506 Pure water has an extraordinary set of biophysical properties. Water exists in various phases and asso- ciates with numerous components in cosmetic emulsions and skin. Ubiquity of water suggests that its properties in emulsions might be projected across interfaces to skin. So called unique substances that impart desired attributes to skin via topical emulsions might be influencing biophysical at- tributes of water. It is proposed, therefore, that water is the actual unique substance of emulsions, poised opportunistically to transfer and impart unique features to skin. This proposal is substan- tiated by published data on evaporation, friction, and electrical impedance of aging skin and (o/w) emulsions. New experimental data show that water is retained uniquely by skin, keratinous tissues, and cosmetic emulsions. Strategies designed to discover new substances that project desired features to skin will be illustrated by new data. The effect of solvents on sunscreen agents Nadim A. Shaath, Ph.D., Felton International Inc., 599 Johnson Ave., Brooklyn, NY 11237, and Louise E. Agrapidis-Paloympis and Robert A. Nash, Ph.D., St. John's University, School of Pharmacy, Jamaica, NY 11439 The effect of a sunscreen agent can be measured by determining the h. max (wavelength at which max- imum absorption occurs) and the extinction coeffi- cient • (intensity at maximum absorption). How- ever, earlier reports by Groves, Riegelman, Cum- pelnick and Shaath have shown that the performance of a sunscreen agent is influenced by the nature of the solvent in which it is dissolved. We have studied 12 sunscreen agents selected from the approved published list by the OTC panel of the FDA in 1978 and over a dozen solvents that are commonly used in the cosmetic industry. The re- suits which are correlated with molecular orbital theory reveal vital information that all cosmetic chemists involved in formulating sunscreen products should be aware of. On the theory of ultraviolet absorption of sunscreen chemicals Nadim A. Shaath, Ph.D., Felton International Inc., 599 Johnson Ave., Brooklyn, NY 11237 In this presentation molecular orbital and ultravi- olet theory will be used to explain why and how sunscreen chemicals do absorb harmful ultraviolet radiation. With the proposed theory, several prin- ciples related to the effectiveness of a sunscreen chemical can be explained and predicted. Specifi- cally, this knowledge will aid the chemist in his design and synthesis of new sunscreen chemicals by selecting the appropriate chromophores that will af- ford absorption in either the UV-A or UV-B regions (or any h. max required) and also yield the intensity (k-value or extinction coefficient) desired for their application. The cosmetic chemist will, with the aid of this theory, be able to select the most appropriate sunscreen either from the ap- proved list or from other sunscreen chemicals avail- able in the market. More importantly, trends in SPF, intensity of sunscreens, wavelengths at which they are effective (UVA, UVB or UVC), the effect of using combination sunscreens on cosmetic for- mulations, the effect of solvents on the h. max and intensity of sunscreens, and the solubility charac- teristics of a sunscreen chemical can be safely pre- dicted and accounted for.