ABSTRACTS 293 The data presented are treated statistically via a computer program intended solely for use in bio- chemical assays. They are represented either in tab- ular or graphic format. (examples will be given) They are easily intrepreted and can be used to show stimulatory, null, inhibitory, or toxic responses. Correlation of this in vitro evaluation with "folk- loric" claims for herbal products is exceedingly good. Likewise, the correlation between this evalua- tion and in vivo evaluations demonstrating increased cell turnover with finished cosmetic products sup- ports the use of this test as a screening method for preliminary claims substantiation. Tri-K Industries feels that we have bridged the classical definitions of in vitro and in vivo evaluations with this method. Whereas in the past, claims were initially substan- tiated in laboratory environments using synthetic models or formerly living substrates, we are using living substrates in an elegant and thoroughly prac- tical manner to determine true efficacy of modern cosmetic formulae. SESSION G PRODUCT ANALYSIS A three-day mold assay for cosmetics and toilet- ries Catherine A. Mead and John J. O'Neill, Avon Products, Division Street, Suffern, NY 10901 Cosmetic product mold recovery assays generally call for five or more days of incubation of a nutrifled agar plate in which the product has been dispersed. This paper reports the development and validation of an assay procedure which requires only three days of incubation. It is a refinement of the five-day test in two respects. First, and most importantly, the temperature is carefully controlled in an incubator at 27 to 28øC, replacing "room temperature." Second, a more nutritious agar, buffered near neu- trality, replaces the low pH Mycophil agar (BBL) used in our conventional five-day test. The method was validated by simulating contamination of a wide variety of cosmetic products with environ- mental and ATCC fungal strains. Novel empirical method to calculate HLB by TLC Kazutami Sakamoto, Ph.D., Ajinomoto U.S.A., Glenpointe Centre West, 500 Frank W. Burr Blvd., Teaneck, NJ 07666-6894 HLB is a very practical concept to clarify the prop- erties of surfactant as an emulsifier. Many methods to calculate HLB are proposed, but some are re- stricted for general use and others are too compli- cated practically. It seems noteworthy that thin layer chromatography (TLC) gives hydrophylic and hydrophobic character to the molecule by using normal phase or reversed- phase method. We already reported about applica- tion of reversed-phase TLC for the determination of hydrophobicity of the surfactants based on amino acid as a preliminary test for toxicity and irrigation. Hydrophilicity was also measured by normal phase TLC. New empirical HLB calculation based on hy- drophilicity and hydrophobicity by TLC was pro- posed, and a good relationship is found between new methods and traditional methods for a series of nonionic surfactants. Further application for anionic surfactants such as N-acylamino acids will be discussed. Color precision shading by eye and instrument Raymond K. Reilly, Noxell Corporation, P.O. Box 1799, Baltimore, MD 21203 The traditional method for evaluating cosmetic product color has been visual. An alternative to vis- ual evaluation has been provided by the develop- ment of sophisticated color computer systems. Lighting and application of product are important factors in visual color matching, while presentation of samples to the spectrophotometer is an important factor in instrumental color evaluation. Both methods of color determination are affected by pig- ment quality and processing variables. The color computer offers some advantages in the color evalu- ation of cosmetic products, pigments, and pack- aging components. Scanning electron microscopy of dentifrices Timothy R. Kapsner, and Linda J. Haning, Min- netonka, Inc., P.O. Box 1A, Minnetonka, MN 55343 The objective of this study was to determine if the Scanning Electron Microscope (SEM) could be used to compare the abrasives used in dentrifice products. The abrasives were viewed as raw mate- rials and in finished formulations. The method de- veloped in this study for viewing finished dentifrice formulations employs the use of freeze/fracture tech- nology. Ordinarily, this is a sample preparation technique for transmission electron microscopy. The freeze/fracture process produces a replica of the dentifrice sample, retaining the abrasive particles on the underside of the replica. The intact particles may be viewed on the SEM, where different magni- fications allow a comparison of both size and struc- ture. Results are presented as a visual comparison of SEM photomicrographs. The freeze/fracture tech- nique is a useful method for viewing abrasive par- ticles in a finished dentifrice formt•lation. The vari-

294 JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS ations in particle size and structure seen in abrasive raw materials are also seen in the freeze/fractures of the finished products. The long-term chemical stability and biocidal efficacy of the preservative Kathon CG in com- mercial shampoos and conditioners Robert M. Silverstein, Ph.D., Helene Curtis, Inc., 4401 W. North Ave., Chicago, IL 60639 To validate the long-term antimicrobial efficacy of the preservative Kathon CG ©, marketed samples of shampoos and conditioners were tested periodically for three years. Kathon was quantitated by gas chromatography, and biocidal activity was mea- sured by multiple challenges of a mutant microbial isolate from unpreserved product. Over 250 samples from fifty products were stored for up to three years. More than 90% of all samples con- tained at least 75% of the original Kathon CG and showed full biocidal activity. Most failures were random and had no obvious explanation. Therefore, Kathon CG is chemically stable and biologically ac- tive in these products for up to three years. Chemical- and photo-bleaching of brown and red hair Leszek J. Wolfram and Linda Albrecht, Clairol Re- search Laboratories, Stamford, CT 06922 The color of mammalian hairs is mainly due to the presence of discrete granules of melanin pigments which are inroduced into the keratinized cyto- plasmic protein during the process of fiber forma- tion. The melanins fall into two chemically distinct classes--eumelanin derived from enzyme oxidation of DOPA and pheomelanin formed from 5-S-cys- teinyl DOPA. The eumelanin is found in black and brown hair while the pheomelanin is the red hair colorant. Using the technique of reflectance measurement, we have been following the changes in hair color that are attendant upon bleaching of hair with H202 or upon exposure to sunlight. Our data sug- gest that pheomelanin is more resistant than eume- lanin to chemical or photo-degradation, a finding which is strongly corrobrated by a parallel series of in vitro experiments with the isolated pigments. We have also observed marked shifts in the hue of the bleached tresses and have proposed an explanation of these in terms of changes in physical and spectral characteristics of the melanin pigment. SESSION H PACKAGING Design versus engineering: USA, Europe, and the Far East Bernard P. Braun, Package Works, Inc., 17 Ove- ridge Lane, Wilton, CT 06897 Each country has its own expertise in the field of packaging. The progress of design and engineering aspects of this discipline do not always go hand-in- hand. Having traveled and worked with many com- panies in countries all over the world, I will try to present my own interpretations of the capabilities of each as a comparison with the others. For those who have not had the opportunity to ex- perience this comparison first hand, this will be an interesting opportunity to discuss these issues. Modern methods of characterizing packaging materials used in cosmetic packaging Thomas J. Ambrosio, Ph.D., Schering-Plough, 2000 Galloping Hill Road, Kenilworth, NJ 07033 Cosmetic and pharmaceutical packaging share many common objectives. Customer satisfaction, regula- tory compliance, and corporate image are important for both drugs as well as cosmetics. In order to as- sure satisfactory shelf life and overall package integ- rity, stability studies must be supplemented with good analytical support. Modern analysis proce- dures that incorporate state-of-the-art techniques for characterizing individual packaging materials or total systems are available for use in house or by commerical testing laboratories. A survey of some of these fundamental areas of qualitative and quan- titative measurement will be made along with ex- amples of applications. Data and information gen- erated from measurements using instrumental methods of analysis can form the basis for pack- aging specifications, vendor agreements, and certi- fication programs. In the pharmaceutical industry this type of work has proven to be cost effective by moving projects along faster, reducing production down time, and avoiding drug recalls. Aerosol packaging for cosmetic products: An overview John J. Sciarra, Ph.D., and Anthony J. Curie, Ph.D., Arnold & Marie Schwartz College of Phar- macy and Health Sciences, Long Island University, 75 Dekalb Avenue, Brooklyn, NY 11201 All types of cosmetic products have been packaged in an aerosol or pressurized package. These have in- cluded hair products, shave foams, perfumes, co- lognes, anti-perspirants, and deodorants, as well as many creams and lotions. While the principles un- derlying the development of these products has not changed over the years, the technology has seen dra- matic changes during the past 3-5 year period. The introduction and subsequent success of the "Mousse" foam aerosol is but only one example.