SKIN ACID PHOSPHATASE AS IRRITATION MARKER 393 Pawlowski (7). In the present investigation, however, this problem could not be re- solved definitely and requires further studies. ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS We would like to thank Martine Pfefferli, Chantal Michaud, and Eveline Buntschu for skillful technical assistance. Especially, we are indebted to Dr. Thomas C. Brown for critical reading of the manuscript. REFERENCES (1) A. B. G. Lansdown, Appraisal of methods for detecting primary skin irritants, J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 23, 739-772 (1972). (2) C. Protrey, "The Molecular Basis of Skin Irritation," in Cosmetic Science, M. M. Breuer, Ed. (Aca- demic Press, London, 1979), Vol. 1, pp 275-349. (3) P. J. Frosch and A.M. Kligman, The soap chamber test,J. Am. Acad. Dermatol., 1, 35-41 (1979). (4) P. J. Frosch, "Irritancy of Soaps and Detergent Bars," in The Principles of Cosmetics for the Dermatologist, Ph. Frost and St. Horwitz, Eds. (Mosby, St. Louis, 1982), pp 5-12. (5) J. E. Wahlberg, Assessment of skin irritancy: Measurement of skin fold thickness, Contact Dermatitis, 9, 21-26 (1983). (6) W. V. R. Shellow and M.J. Rapaport, Comparison testing of soap irritancy using aluminium chamber and standard patch methods, Contact Dermatitis, 7, 77-79 (1981). (7) T. Rutherford and A. Pawlowski, Acid phosphatase staining of the stratum corneum as a marker of damage by low irritancy compounds, Br. J. Dermatol., 91, 503-506 (1974). (8) C. Protrey, D. Oliver, and A. C. Coxon, Prediction and measurement of surfactant action upon human skin under realistic conditions, Int. J. Cosmet. Science, 6, 263-273 (1984). (9) K. Walter and C. Schiitt, "Saure und alkalische Phosphatase im Serum," in Methoden der enzymatischen Analyse, H. J. Bergmeyer, Ed. (Verlag Chemie, Weinheim, 1970), Vol. 1, pp 818-822. (10) H. J. Niggli and P. A. Cerutti, Cyclobutane-type pyrimidine photodimer formation and excision in human skin fibroblasts after irradiation with 313-nm ultraviolet light, Biochem., 22, 1390-1395 (1983). (11) O. H. Lowry, N.J. Rosebrough, A. L. Farr, and R. J. Randall, Protein measurement with the folin phenol reagent, J. Biol. Chem., 193, 265-275 (1951). (12) W. T. Gibson and M. R. Teall, Interactions of C•2 surfactants with the skin: Studies on enzyme release and percutaneous absorption in vitro, Food Chem. Toxicol., 21, 581-586 (1983). (13) G. Hiibscher and G. R. West, Specific assays of some phosphatases in subcellular fractions of small intestinal mucosa, Nature (London) 205, 799 (1965). (14) P. G. M. Van der Valk, J.P. Nater, and E. Bleumink, Skin irritancy of surfactants as assessed by water vapor loss measurements,J. Invest. Dermatol.. 82, 291-293 (1984). (15) F. Stenback, Health hazards from ultraviolet irradiation, Public Health Rev., 10, 229-237 (1982). (16) F. Urbach, J. H. Epstein, and P. D. Forbes, "Ultraviolet Carcinogenesis: Experimental, Global and Genetic Aspects," in Sunlight andMan, T. B. Fitzpatrick, M. A. Pathak, L. C. Harber, M. Seiji, and A. Kukita, Eds. (University of Tokyo Press, 1974), pp 259-283.

j. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 37, 395-396 (September/October 1986) Book Review THE SCIENCE OF HAIR CARE, Charles Zviak, Ed. Marcel Decker, Inc., 270 Madison Avenue, New York, NY 10016, 1986. 624 pages. $99.75 (U.S. and Canada) $119.50 (All other coun- tries). This very useful book brings together much material, both basic and applied, about many aspects of hair, hair products, and hair disorders. Ten contributing au- thors joined Dr. Zviak in writing this book. Of its 23 chapters, 10 were written by Dr. Zviak, either alone or with a co- author. Twelve chapters that make up about 40% of its pages were written by dermatologists. The text combines the cosmetic science of hair and hair products with the dermatological aspects of dis- orders of the scalp and of hair. The book is very well organized, paragraphed, and sectioned. Titles are clear and their vari- ance in type size greatly facilitates the use of the book. The graphics, paper, and book quality are excellent. The text has both instructional and reference values. Its wide range is best served by listing its chapter titles with very brief reference to their contents. Chapter 1: Hair Structure Function and Physicochemical Properties. Hair follicle and structure. Hair: Dynamics (growth), types, chemistry, molecular structure, color and physical properties (mechanical, surface, contact with liquids or vapors). 82 references. Chapter 2: Scalp and Hair Hygiene. Shampoo: Definition, desired properties, action, surfactants (chemistry of), formu- lation, types, evaluation, safety. 101 ref- erences. Chapter 3: Hair Treatment and Hair Care Products. Scalp and hair treatment. Dandruff, seborrhea, hair loss, and their treatment. Hair care preparations: Their formulation and evaluation. Fine and limp hair. 94 references. Chapter 4: Hair Setting. Principles of hair setting, products for maintaining hair styles. Formulation principles, types, tox- icity, and evaluation. 76 references. Chapter 5: Permanent Waving and Hair Straightening. Hot waving. Cold waving: Ingredients, formulation, techniques and evaluation. Hair straightening. 112 refer- ences. Chapter 6: Hair Bleaching. Definition. Chemistry of. Oxidizing products. Formu- lation and techniques used of bleach- ing agents. Effects on hair. Evaluation of products. 39 references. Chapter 7: Hair Coloring--Non-Oxida- tion Coloring. Temporary and semi-perma- nent hair coloring. Direct dyeing. 40 ref- erences. Chapter 8: Oxidation Coloring. Dye in- termediate lists with structural activity (coloring) relationships. Oxidative mecha- nisms. Formulation of oxidation dyes-- basic principles. Product types. Bleaching and coloring. Extensive table: Color ob- tained by mixing aromatic bases with couplers. 28 references. Chapter 9: Toxicology and Hair Dyes. Physicochemical and technical character- istics of hair coloring--aspects of toxi- cology unique to hair coloring. Percu- taneous penetration and dye uptake. Epi- demiological research. Evaluating risks. 77 references. Chapter 10: Development of Hair Products. Laboratory tests prior to mar- 395