ABSTRACTS 665 Salicyloyl-Phytosphingosine: A Novel Agent For The Repair Of Photoaged Skin M. Farwick*, R. E. B. Watson f, A. V. Raw y ngs *, U. Wollenw t r*, P. Lersch*, J 't J. Bowden , J. Y. Bastrilles and C. E. M. Griffiths *Degussa AG, Goldschmidt Personal Car f Goldschmidtstrasse 100, 45127 Essen, Germany, Dermatopharmacology Unit, Dermatology Centre, Ho 'f Hospital, The University of Manchester, Manchester and A VR Consulting Ltd, Northwich, Cheshire, U.K. Mike Farwick, Degussa AG, Goldschmidt Personal Care, Goldschmidtstrasse 100, 45127 Essen, Germany In recent years the importance of sphingolipids ( cerebrosides, sphingomyelin, ceramides, sphingosine-1- phospate, etc.) in skin biology is receiving an increasing interest. Not only are ceramides essential for the barrier function of the skin, especially through their phytosphingosine, sphingosine and 6-hydroxysphingosine derivatives, they are now also known to be cell-signalling mediators which can improve epidermal differentiation. However, their effects on dermal anti-ageing markers and reduction of wrinkles have not been established. In this study, we were interested in the effects of a sphingolipid derivative, salicyloyl-phytosphingosine (SP), because of the known independent beneficial effects of salicylic acid and phytosphingosine on skin. Both of these agents are known to reduce the activities of the activator protein-I transcription factor, in a manner similar to that observed with retinoic acid (RA) treatment. Through this mechanism, RA was shown to reduce the levels of matrix metalloproteases (MMPs) and the increase levels of extracellular matrix proteins. Therefore, we examined the effects of SP on procollagen-1 synthesis in fibroblasts in vitro, its effects in vivo on the expression of dermal markers such as fibrillin-1, procollagen-1 and MMP-1 immunochemically in biopsies taken from a short-term occluded patch test protocol and, its effects on periorbital wrinkle reduction over 4 weeks using Fast Optical In Vivo Topometry of Human Skin. In vitro we observed a significant increase in the production of procollagen-I by adult human fibroblasts (two fold increase, P 0.01) which encouraged us to test the effects of SP in vivo. Initially, test products (SP at 0.05% and 0.2%, all-trans RA (0.025%) and vehicle were applied under occlusion for 8 days prior to biopsy and histological assessment in photoaged volunteers (n = 5). Increased deposition of fibrillin-1 and procollagen-I, together with reductions in the levels of MMP-1, were observed for the SP treatments (P 0.05). Similar effects were observed for RA, except for the increases in procollagen-1. With these beneficial effects on the basement membrane and papillary dermal markers, we evaluated the effects of SP in an oil-in-water (0/W) cream for its effects in reducing the appearance of periorbital wrinkles in a 4-week, half-face clinical study compared to placebo cream (moderately photoaged female subjects aged 41----69 years n = 30). Clear reductions in wrinkle depth and Rz (skin smoothness) together with Ra (skin roughness) parameters were observed (P 0.05), indicating an anti­ wrinkle benefit. In conclusion, this series of studies demonstrated for the first time that a ceramide derivative, such as that SP, was a novel agent for the repair of photoaged skin and highlight its effects at the cellular, tissue and organ levels. Three-Dimensional Imaging And Analysis Of The Surface Of Hair Fibres Using Scanning Electron Microscopy C. Tomes*, J. T. Jones*, C. M. Carr" and D. Jones f *Textiles and Paper, School of Materials, Th f University of Manchester, Manchester M60 1 QD and Croda Chemicals, Cowick Hall, Goole DN14 9AA, U.K. Chris M. Carr Tomes, Textiles and Paper, School of Materials, The University of Manchester, Manchester M60 1QD,U.K. Cuticle scales are the most obvious feature of a hair fibre's outer surface and much research has focused on assessing the influence of surface topography on the associated hair fibre's properties. However, much of the research has either been qualitative or, if quantitative, employed relatively laborious analytical techniques to establish the necessary statistical robustness. In this study, we report on the application of a 3D image analysis package capable of producing 3D data from multiple 2D scanning electron microscope (SEM) images of hair fibres. Analysis of the surface profile can be carried out quickly and accurately, enabling quantification of the scale structure. To validate the novel technique and ensure that the scale heights measured were indeed accurate and reproducible, extensive calibration of the SEM and the 3D software has been performed. In addition, scale heights on a single hair have

666 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE been determined by using atomic force microscopy (AFM) and the results compared with analogous data produced from the same scale edges using the 3D image analysis technique. The data obtained indicate that a relatively quick, accurate and viable method to determine scale height in keratin fibres has been established. A further 3D-SEM analysis method has been developed which allows individual scales to be monitored and for the cuticular scale height to be quantified after repeated 'smoothing' treatments. Function Of Surfactants In Hair Dyeing By Oxidation Dyes 2. Effect On Formation Of Oxidation Dyes By P­ Aminophenol And 5-Amino-O-Cresol In Dye Bath H. Yasu y ga*, Y. Ishii*, T. Komoda*, T. Shinkawa*, K. Kajiwara and H. Urakawa* *Department of Chemistry and Materials Technology, Kyoto Institute of Technology, Kyoto Sakyo-k 't Matugasaki, Gosyokaido-tyo, 606-8585, Japan and Otuma Women's University, Faculty of Home Economics, Tokyo Tiyoda-ku, Sanban-tyo 12, 102-8357, Japan Department of Chemistry and Materials Technology, Kyoto Institute of Technology, Kyoto Sakyo-ku, Matugasaki, Gosyokaido-tyo, 606-8585 Japan. 'Part of this study was presented at the 8th Eurasia Conference on Chemical Sciences, 21-24 October 2003 at Hanoi, Viet Nam and 3rd International Conference on Advanced Fiberffextile Materials 2005 in Ueda, 25--27 August 2005 at Ueda, Japan. The effect of surfactants on an oxidation-hair-dye­ formation reaction in a dye bath was studied in order to learn the mechanism of the effect of surfactants on the dyeability of hair by the oxidation dye. The dye-fonnation behaviours for the p-aminophenol and 5-amino-o-cresol system with the surfactants, of which the hydrophilic parts have different charges, were compared changing the concentration of surfactants. It was found that the same dyes are produced, regardless of the charge of surfactants added, and the rate of dye produced in the dyebath is increased in the presence of surfactants. The order of the production rate is, with an anionic surfactant with non­ ionic surfactant with cationic surfactant without surfactant. The relation between the dyeability of hair and the rate of dye produced in the dyebath in the presence of surfactants is not found. The major factor governing the dyeability of hair is different from the mechanism of the increased dye in the solution. It was also found that the dye-formation rate is increased by immersing hair into the reaction solution, and hair works as an accelerator for the dye-fonnation reaction.