166 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE Oral Suncare And Photoprotection With Carotenoids Regina G6ralczyk DSM Nutritional Products Ltd. Basel Switzerland The normal Western population is increasingly exposing itself to natural and ambient sources of UV- radiation (UVR) due to a lifestyle favouring tanned skin. Chronic exposure to UV radiation leads to epidermal and dermal damage, such as hyperkeratosis, keratinocyte dysplasia and dermal elastosis in affected skin areas, clinically presenting as photoaged skin. To limit the adverse effects of excessive sun exposure, nutritional manipulation of basic skin endogenous protective properties is an attractive proposition. There has been considerable interest in the dietary carotenoids for many years, due to their radical scavenging and singlet oxygen quenching properties and thus their putative role in photochemistry, photobiology and photomedicine. Carotenoids are natural pigments commonly found in brightly coloured vegetables and fruit. Carrots, apricots and green leafy vegetables such as spinach contain mainly P-caroten and the carotenoids lutein and zeaxanthin. Tomatoes contain high levels of lycopen. More recently, carotenoids have received incr�asing interest as beauty supplements for oral sun care. Carotenoids protect skin form sunlight damage in several ways, including: increasing optical density, quenching singlet oxygen or, for provitamin A carotenoids, formation of retinoic acid, a known topical therapeutic fro premature skin aging. Over the past 30 years, a considerable body of evidenced has emerged from human, animal and in vitro skin cellsyudies on the protective effects of carotenoids, demonstrating that they can mildly alleviate sun burn, photo-immune suppression and reduce molecular markers for photoaging. This research is summarized in this review, and new molecular mechanisms, recently identified by nutrigenomics tools, are discussed. Originally published in the SOFW-Journal 133(8) 2007 The Efficacy Of Commercial Sunscreens With The Same SPF By In Vitro Method Jarmila Hojerova 1 , Andrea Medovtikova 1 , Milan Mikula 2, Martina Borekova 1 1 Section of Cosmetology, Faculty of Chemical and Food Technology, Slovak University of Technology, Bratislava, Slovakia 2 Section of Applied Photochemistry, Faculty of Chemical and Food Technology, Slovak University of Technology, Bratislava, Slovakia The objective of this study was to present as distinctive arc the overall sun protective abilities of the commercially available sunscreen cosmetics in European market with the same SPF value labelled. For this purpose, UV A and UVB absorbance, the UV A/UVB ratio, critical wavelength and photostability of the eleven sunscreen products with SPF 20 were investigated by in vitro spectrophotometry test. The method was based on the assessment of UV- transmittance through a thin film of sunscreen' sample that was spreads on a quartz substratr:, as the spectral absorption before and after exposure from xenon lamp as a defined UV artificial source. The nine sunscreens offered only partial protection against UV A radiation, particularly in UV A-I spectrum. The eight sunscreens have been providing insutlicient photostability.

168 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE KEVNOTE AWARD LECTURE SPONSORED BV RUGER CHEMICAL CORPORATION NON-SUNSCREEN PHOTO PROTECTION: WHERE ARE WE TODAV? THE SKIN IMMUNE PROTECTION Lieve Declercq, Ph.D., Daniel Maes, Ph.D., Thomas Mammone, Ph.D. and Mary Matsui, Ph.D. Estee Lauder Companies, Inc. Today's scientific literature abound with solid evidence that the various parts of the UV spectrum do generate significant damage in the skin, and that the necessity to provide a broad spectrum protection from UV exposure is not just an option, but has become an absolute necessity. Despite the significant improvement in sunscreen technologies observed recently, based mostly on the stabilization of the UV absorbers during sun exposure, it remains that sunscreens have not been capable so far to provide a complete protection from al I the consequences related from the exposure to both UVB and UVA rays. Clearly, the damages caused by the generation of free radicals, and the resulting oxidation of lipids proteins and even DNA cannot be totally prevented even by the best combination of the existing sunscreens technology. One of the most deleterious consequences of UV exposure is the suppression of the cutaneous immune response, as it is clearly associated with skin cancer formation. The process by which UV suppress immunity involves a complex combination of pathways that includes oxidation , inflammation, damage to DNA, leading to the depletion and alteration of antigen presenting cells. DNA repair enzymes such as T4 endonucleases as well as fragments of RNA have been shown to stimulate the repair of UV-induced DNA lesions, as well as prevent the UV-induced up regulation of immuno-suppressive cytokines such as IL-10 in human skin. Similarly, the free radical-induced oxidative damages have been shown to affect significantly the antigen presentation capacity of the Langerhans cells leading to a significant disruption of the skin immune defense activity. In order to develop a protection technology aimed at preventing the UV-induced immuno suppression, we tested both ex vivo and in vivo, the efficacy of either anti-oxidants or DNA repair technology in maintaining the skin's immune response even after exposure to the full UV light spectra. Ex vivo experiments Experiments were first carried out ex vivo on skin explants maintained in survival. Exposure to solar simulated light caused a dose-dependent increase in sun burn cells, coinciding with a reduction in the number and dendricity of LC. The LC depletion seemed to occur at doses lower than those required to induce formation of sunburn cells. This model was used to evaluate the protective benefits provided by a formulation containing white tea, which was shown previously to have strong antioxidant activity. Skin samples (Non-treated and vehicle treated, as well as skin samples treated with the white tea containing formulation) coming from the same donor were irradiated with increasing doses of UV light (0.45 to 3.56 J/cm2) using an Oriel Solar simulator, corresponding to an estimated 0.25 to 3.0 MED. Treatment with the lotion was performed 4 hours before exposure to UV light. The skin samples were processed 24 hours after exposure for evaluation of the Langerhans cells using immunolabeling with CD I a antibody. The results (Fig. I) clearly demonstrate the protective benefits provided by the white tea containing formulation in preventing the UV-induced depletion of Langerhans cells in the epidermis. The tissue treated with the white tea containing formulation showed no decrease in the number of LC per mm epidermis, up to a dose of 3.56 J/cm2 in the current experimental conditions, which is expected to be approximately equivalent to 2 MED for this phototype. The vehicle formulation did not offer any protection against UV-induced LC migration.