30 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE
regulation (EU) 2024/1328, which amends the REACH (Registration, Evaluation,
Authorization and Restriction of Chemicals) Regulation. The goal of the restrictions is to
reduce the amount of these substances released into the environment and their impact on
ecosystems.
Given the impending regulatory restrictions, cosmetic manufacturers are actively seeking
acceptable substitutes for D5 and D6. Blends of CGSAC with diheptyl succinate are offered as
alternatives for these cyclosiloxanes as well as linear polydimethylsiloxane (dimethicone) fluids.
DESIGNING INGREDIENTS FOR SUSTAINABILITY
Ideally, after their final use, ingredients should not persist in the environment. Rather, they
should be reused or decomposed without an environmental trace. Whereas petro-derived
aromatic polyesters are essentially non-biodegradable solid plastics,11 many aliphatic
Figure 6. Versatility of the Capryloyl Glycerin/Sebacic Acid Copolymer platform.
Table I
Biodegradabiility of Polyester-based Cosmetic Ingredients.
INCI Name (Trade Name) OECD 301B Biodegradability
Classification
Biodegradation (%CO2
evolution at 28 days)
Polyester-10 (and) Propylene Glycol Dibenzoate
(LexFilm™ Spray)
Ready 99.9
Capryloyl Glycerin/Sebacic Acid Copolymer
(LexFilm™ Sun Natural MB)
Ready 81.5
Polyester-7 (and) Neopentyl Glycol
Diheptanoate
(LexFilm™ Sun)
Ultimate 79.9
Adipic Acid/Diglycol Crosspolymer
(Lexorex™ MB)
Ready 76.4
Trimethylpentanediol/Adipic Acid/Glycerin
Crosspolymer
(WetFilm™ MB)
Ultimate 66.5* (at Day 37)
Q1

31 Green Cosmetic Ingredients
polyesters are naturally derived, biodegradable solids or liquids. Indeed, most polyester
film formers and emollients are viscous liquids and do not present the risk of environmental
persistence. For instance, the waxes that occur naturally on skins of many fruits are fatty acid
estolides, which include biodegradable polyesters.12 Table I provides examples of ingredients
based on biodegradable polyester chemistry and their biodegradability classifications.
CONCLUSIONS
Holistic consideration of the entire product life cycle and application of Green Chemistry
and Green Engineering design principles can improve the sustainability of cosmetics
ingredients. The benefits of improving ingredient sustainability are compounded when
manufacturers of finished goods combine multiple sustainable ingredients into a product
formulation. Selecting sustainable biobased ingredients, such as those described in this
article, helps to satisfy the consumer demand for so-called “clean” and “natural” products
and contributes to the sustainability profile of products.
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(4) US9662288B2, 2014, assigned to Inolex Investment Corp.
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