33 Sustainable Fragrances
ultimate benefit is often greater self-confidence [8, 9]. Ensuring residual scent is present on
skin or a surface reassures consumers, for laundry signalling that an item is clean or ready
to wear, for skin cleanliness and eventually sensuality. A fresh laundry scent has even been
shown to influence the decision to consider purchasing second-hand clothes [10]. Often
scent relays a message of reassurance where visual confirmation is difficult or impossible,
for example whether a surface is hygienically clean. Beyond functional benefits, fragrances
are also used to elicit positive emotional benefits and a sense of well-being [11, 12]. Indirect
evidence for the positive benefits from scent can be found in consumer choice from market
share data where unfragranced and fragranced variants are widely available, often from the
same brand. Data (Nielsen) for the USA concerning the laundry detergent and liquid fabric
softener categories shows that the share of unfragranced (often labelled “Free and Clear”)
products is both low and stable consumers don’t have to pick the fragranced option, but
the vast majority do because of the functional and emotional benefits they bring (Table I).
Figure 1. State of the Planet 2024 update to Planetary boundaries [2].
Table I
USA Market Share of Unscented Laundry Products (Nielsen)
Volume Share USA (Units) 2019 2020 2021 2022 2023 2024
Laundry Detergent 14.0% 14.3% 14.7% 15.2% 14.5% 13.1%
Liquid Fabric Softener NA 3.5% 3.5% 3.6% 3.9% 4.0%
34 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE
Now that the importance of fragrance to daily life has been established the question
becomes how fragrances can be produced in more sustainable ways. There is no definition
of what constitutes a sustainable fragrance. Most discussions on sustainability take the 17
UN Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs) (Fig. 2) from the 2030 Agenda for Sustainable
Development, adopted in 2015 [13] as a reference point these goals succeeded the 8 UN
Millenium Development Goals, set in 2000 to be met by 2015. The aim of UN SDGs is to
promote “peace and prosperity for people and the planet…”.
In Europe, as part of the EU Green Deal, the Corporate Sustainability Reporting Directive
(CSRD) entered into force in January 2023 -(EU) 2023/2772 -and there is a clear connection
between the Environmental and Social aspects of CSRD and the SDG goals.
Another important development in Europe as part of the Green Deal was the European
Chemicals Strategy for Sustainability (CSS), which was announced in 2020, with a
Restrictions Roadmap published in 2022. This Roadmap prioritizes group restrictions for
the most harmful substances to human health and the environment. The CSS is part of the
EU’s zero pollution ambition, and has or will lead to revisions of Classification, Labelling
and Packaging Regulation (CLP), the Detergents and Surfactants Regulation ((EU)
2023/0124 (COD)), the Cosmetics Products Regulation (CPR), REACH and the Ambient
Air Quality Directive (AAQD). CSS also introduced the notion of essential use, where the
most harmful substances must be replaced unless there is essential use (“Guiding criteria
and principles for the essential use concept in EU legislation dealing with chemicals” -
Document C/2024/2894).
Further pieces of related legislation in Europe are:
Restriction on synthetic polymer microparticles (microplastics) (EU) 2023/2055.
European Union Deforestation Regulation (EUDR) (EU) 2023/1115.
Corporate Sustainability Due Diligence Directive (CSDDD) (EU) 2024/1760.
Forced Labour Regulation (EU) 2024/3015.
Figure 2. 17 UN Sustainable Development Goals.
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