37 Sustainable Fragrances
The CSDDD or CS3D, (EU) 2024/1760, entered into force in July 2024 and will be
discussed in more detail under Human Ethical considerations as it is primarily concerned
with Human and Environmental Rights. Nevertheless, it should be noted that companies in
scope of the Directive should adopt and put into effect a transition plan for climate change
mitigation which aims to ensure that their business model and strategy are compatible with
the limiting of global warming to 1.5oC in line with the Paris Agreement and the objective
of achieving climate neutrality as established in Regulation (EU) 2021/1119, including its
intermediate and 2050 climate neutrality targets.
WATER FOOTPRINT
Water consumption for fragrance compounding activity is minimal, largely associated with
washing vessels. Steps are taken to recycle water and treat wastewater before it is released
back into the environment.
The main water footprint associated with the industry is from the cultivation of natural
materials like oranges for orange oil or renewable starting materials like palm, sugar cane,
or pine trees. In an analogous fashion to carbon footprint (kg CO
2 e/kg), the value calculated
is litres water/kg final ingredient.
The Blue Water use metric measures how much water is used from lakes, rivers and
aquifers to irrigate the crops used during the agricultural stage and will be a key metric for
developing standards like SBTi for Nature and EU CSRD. The value can be weighted by
the sensitivity of the local water tables to drought, so called “scarcity adjusted” [21].
To note that reference is sometimes made to Green Water (rainwater that comes from natural
precipitation) and Grey Water (water impacted by the runoff of nutrients &chemicals).
The Grey Water footprint is a measure of pollution. It is expressed as the volume of water
required to assimilate the pollutant load to meet ambient water quality standards. The
pollutant that requires the largest assimilation volume is referred to as the critical pollutant
and is used to calculate the Grey Water footprint if there are both surface and groundwater
discharges, the Grey Water footprint for each discharge is calculated separately.
For the developing standard SBTi Nature, targets for water quality will be calculated so
that nutrient concentrations (nitrogen and phosphorous) in water systems remain below the
Figure 4. Indicative schematic of Carbon footprint by raw material category.
38 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE
threshold that leads to excessive growth of algae and cyanobacteria, avoiding the effects of
eutrophication.
Whilst few companies today track water footprint, we can assume that it will come into
focus once carbon foot printing is more routine and reporting required. A review of the
relative water footprint of different crops can be found in the article of Mekonnen and
Hoekstra [22]. Rising temperatures and shifting weather patterns directly impact the
viability and yields of naturals used by the fragrance industry recurrent droughts in South
Africa and an extended drought (2023–24) in South America have already led to a loss of
production, with the 2024 orange crop in Brazil one of the smallest since the 1980s. A
prolonged dry period in Indonesia during 2023–24 has impacted patchouli oil availability.
The notion that changing weather patterns will have a significant future impact has been
highlighted in the World Economic Forum Global Risk Analysis 2025 [23] based on a
survey of over 900 experts. They estimate that in 2035, 10 years from now, the highest
risks are all environmental: Extreme weather events, Critical changes to Earth systems,
Biodiversity loss and ecosystem collapse, and natural resources shortage.
AIR POLLUTION
Volatile Organic Compounds (VOCs) emitted from fragrance containing products can
contribute to indoor and outdoor environmental pollution. In the USA, The California Air
Resources Board (CARB) sets restrictions with Consumer Products Regulations covering
a range of personal care and home care product categories to reduce outdoor pollution.
The initial driver for the legislation was the connection between VOCs, ozone and smog
impacting California. The Regulations are concerned with restricting volatiles with a
vapour pressure of 0.1mmHg at 20°C, and currently fragrances have benefitted from
a number of exemptions nevertheless, many manufacturers of Air Care products have
reformulated some products to use low vapour pressure solvents. In general, the limits
on VOCs are increasing over time and for example, from January 2023 personal fragrance
products were restricted to a maximum of 70% VOC (i.e. ethanol), and from January 2031
this restriction becomes a maximum of 50% VOC (i.e. ethanol) up to the 10% fragrance
level [24]. This will certainly lead to reformulation of products such as body mists.
The Directive (EU) 2024/2881 on ambient air quality and cleaner air for Europe (recast),
known as the AAQD, was finalised in 2024. In the Directive, ‘ambient air’ is defined as
meaning outdoor air in the troposphere. The AAQD revises earlier Directives concerning
air pollutants and is part of the zero pollution ambition of the Green Deal. In addition to
the concerns behind the CARB legislation the Directive is concerned about the impact
of air pollutants on human health. It aligns air quality standards more closely with the
recommendations of the World Health Organization (WHO) [25, 26] setting limits to be
attained by 2026 and 2030 in.particular.
More specifically the Directive includes limits for benzene (5 µg/m3 by 2026, 3.4 µg/m3
by 2030) and particulate matter, whilst earlier legislation sets limits for formaldehyde.
Furthermore, the WHO has stated “indoor air is a significant source of benzene exposure
Benzene is a genotoxic carcinogen no reason that the guidelines for indoor air should differ
from ambient air guidelines” [26]. A guideline (maximum) air concentration 1.7 µg/m3 was
calculated corresponding to an excess lifetime risk of leukemia of 1/100,000. Concerning
fragranced products, burning candles and incense sticks are the most problematic sources of
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