288 JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS humans. In vitro testing methods have been devel- oped to provide basic knowledge of the physico- chemical behavior of potential sunscreening agents and to avoid those instances where direct human testing has resulted in excessive costs, due to the large test population necessitated, and sometimes without the benefit of an effective, marketable product. The usual approach has been to predict the Sun Protection Factor from a variety of spectropho- tometric techniques using dilute solutions or thin films of the test agent. Utility of these techniques has been extended by direct in situ measurement of UV absorption after application of agent to mouse skin. These methods are optimally followed by an- imal tests whereby preliminary toxicity data, as well as actual ability to diminish specific biological responses to UV insult, other than erythema, can be obtained. A number of the latter tests include DNA repair capability, ornithine decarboxylase induc- tion, carcinogenesis, and manifestations of actinic aging. Statistics and factors which influence the re- sults of sunscreen testing. Robert M. Sayre, Ph.D., Schering-Plough Corpora- tion, 3030 Jackson Ave., P.O. Box 377, Memphis, TN 38151 A number of factors may affect the performance of sunscreen products on human skin. These can be generally classified as individual factors, formula at- tribute factors, instrumental factors, and test oper- ator factors. Individual factors include eye color, hair color, age, sex, skin type, and possible indi- vidual differences in the erythema effeciency spec- trum. There are other factors relative to the perfor- mance of individual products including the choice of vehicle and its cosmetic attributes. Instrumental factors which may affect the performance of a product tested include the spectral distribution of the solar simulator, its fluence, the size of the area irradiated, and the exposure increments chosen. The final set of factors are those which involve the study investigator. These include the measurement of test application area, the determination of the amount of product, and its uniform application to the skin. Also important in this category may be the administration of the exposure increments and determination of the end point. Specifically, the in- dividual factors will be examined with respect to the Schering-Plough data base of sunscreen tests. Finally, the results will be discussed relative to published studies of product efficacy and the use of alternate analysis schemes based on log-normal pop- ulation distributions and statistics. SESSION C EMULSION TECHNOLOGY Cosmetic emulsions--How to and why Abraham Seldner, Seldner Associates, 188 Grove Avenue, Princeton, NJ 08540 The most challenging product forms in cosmetic formulation are emulsions. Emulsions dominate skin care and are prominent in other applications. Pragmatic literature in emulsion formulation is scarce and has large elements of mystique that com- plicate the formulator's job in an essentially scien- tific pursuit. The author endeavors to simplify and systematize development of commercial cosmetic emulsions to yield sound, elegant, stable, and sale- able products within reasonable time frames. The role of the supplier is evaluated and the proper places of natural, synthetic, esoteric, and exotic ma- terials are assayed. The myriad of available raw ma- terials is winnowed down to a few manageable cate- gories and their roles are defined with a view toward ease of selection for product development. The art and science of formulating stable emul- sions Kenneth Klein, Van Dyk & Company, Main & Williams Sts., Belleville, NJ 07109 Formulating stable emulsions requires a solid scien- tific base augmented by a generous dose by tech- nique, sometimes referred to as art and good luck. To minimize the contribution of either (science or art) shows a naivet6 which will lead to failure at the bench. This presentation discusses: 1. The scientific basis for choosing emulsion ingredients (principally emulsifiers). 2. Processing considerations. 3. For- mulation. The last aspect (formulation) will be dis- cussed in some depth with numerous examples fo- cusing on ingredient rational. Shampoo design parameters and their effect on surfactant choice L.J. Nehmsmann, Ph.D., PPG Industries, Inc., P.O. Box 31, Barberton, OH 44203 The modern formulator has a more important and difficult task today than ever before. The market, technical, and economic demands placed upon cos- metic products are more demanding. The market fragmentation requires the formulator to produce more new formulae in less time. Fortunately, the array of surfactants available to help in this task is also larger. A review of the surfactant structures available and the characteristic properties of the various structures are given. Emphasis will be on anionics, the largest class of surfactants used in
ABSTRACTS 289 shampoo. The effect of the anionic structure on foam, irritation, and viscosity is shown. Compar- isons are made with alkyl ether sulfates and alkyl ether sulfonates in general purpose shampoo and special purpose hair relaxers. The effects of amides, amine oxides, and betaines on these systems are il- lustrated. The goal is that through better under- standing of the surfactant choices ava•ilable, the for- mulator can more efficiently select the best surfac- rant system for the particular product being designed. Formulation optimization: A tool for product development Nicholas G. Lordi, Ph.D., College of Pharmacy, Rutgers University, Piscataway, NJ 08854 Formulation optimization is the process of deter- mining the quantities of ingredients and the process variables which result in a product which meets a predefined set of specifications. Two optimization strategies will be discussed: the simplex method, which is an example of sequential search plans, and Box-Wilson experimental designs as examples of si- multaneous search plans. In the latter case, the ob- jective is to construct a mathematical model of the formulation which can be used as a basis for identi- fying alternative optimal formulations as well as for production troubleshooting. Methods of data anal- ysis and interpretation, including multidimensional simplex determination, step-wise regression, con- tour analysis, and principal component analysis, will be illustrated using software packages designed for personal computers. SESSION D BIOTECHNOLOGY The value of computational tools for product design Frank Mornany, Ph.D., Polygen Corporation, 100 Fifth Avenue, Waltham, MA 02154 Today, high resolution graphics allow the scientist to visualize molecular interactions, both within and between complex biomolecules. Modern molecular mechanics allows one to quantirate such interac- tions. The embrace of molecules to their respective receptors or binding sites provides significant in- sights into their physiologic modes of action and gives critical information as to what molecular modifications one should make to enhance or change the activity of a promising new product. Graphics and computational tools useful in product development in the area of peptides and proteins will be described, and advances being made to create computational tools of commercial utility will be examined. Agricultural applications in plant biotech- nology David A. Evans, DNA Plant Technology Corpora- tion, 2611 Branch Pike, Cinnaminson, NJ 08077 The biotechnology tools of plant cell culture have tremendous potential for crop improvement. This collection of techniques can be directed toward pro- duction of identical plants or to induce variability. Plants can be propagated from leaf sections, anthers, meristems, or even isolated single cells and protoplasts. When integrated with conventional crop improvement programs, techniques of cell cul- ture could prove useful through (10) •ic,•al propa- gation in vitro, (2) development of new plant vari- eties via somaclonal variation, (3) development of new parents and breeding lines using gametoclonal variation, (4) production of new hybrids via proto- plast fusion, and (5) development of new varieties using recombinant DNA. These tools permit the induction and control of genetic variability--the cornerstone of plant breeding. By successfully in- ducing new variation, breeding lines can be selected with altered characteristics of value to food pro- cessors or with unique consumer attributes. For ex- ample, genetically modified plants with altered oil or protein content, increased total solids, or im- proved secondary product synthesis would be bene- ficial to the food industry. Even if only the less technical methods of clonal propagation and soma- clonal variation are utilized, biotechnology should have a tremendous impact on crop improvement in the near future. SESSION E PRODUCT DELIVERY SYSTEMS FTIR analysis of cationic polymers on human hair Rimas S. Budrys, Ph.D., Nalco Chemical Co., 1601 W. Diehi Road, Naperville, IL 60566 The use of Fourier Transform Infrared (FTIR) Spec- troscopy of the study of human hair surfaces treated with cationic polymers is discussed. The results ob- tained indicate that one can use this method to quantitatively determine the amount of polymer adsorbed onto the hair surface and to characterize the bonding present between the hair and the polymer. Studies show that some cationic polymers actually interact chemically with human hair while other cationic polymers only form coatings on hair. FTIR analyses show that the amount of polymer de- posited on the hair surface is independent of
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