286 JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS (5) S. A. E. Hakim, Poppy alkaloids and glaucoma, J. Physiol., 138, 40P (1957). (6) P. Balderstone and S. F. Dyke, Detection and quantitative analysis of sanguinarine in edible oils, J. Chromatography, 132, 359-362 (1977). (7) G. L. Southard, R. T. Boulware, D. R. Walborn, W. J. Groznik, E. M. Thorne, and S. L. Yan- kell, Sanguinarine, a new antiplaque agent: Retention and plaque specificity, J. Am. Dent. Assoc., 108, 338-341 (1984). (8) B. D. Krane, M. O. Fagbule, and M. Shamma. The benzophenanthridine alkaloids, J. Nat. Prod., 47, 1-43 (1984). (9) B. C. Bennett, R. T. Boulware, and C. R. Bell, Variation in sanguinarine content in natural popula- tions, Botanical Society of America, Abstract No. 205 (1984).
j. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 37, 287-295 (July/August 1986) Abstracts The Annual Scientific Meetings and Seminars of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists are important venues for informing the participants about the state of the art and recent technical advances in the field of Cosmetic Science. To provide broader dissemination of that information, the Publi- cations Committee has decided to publish abstracts of technical presentations made at these Meetings and Seminars in the Journal.--The Editor. Society of Cosmetic Chemists Annual Scientific Meeting December 4-5, 1986 SESSION A SUNSCREENS Human sunscreen evaluation: Protection from sunburn Ward L. Billhimer, Hill Top Research Inc., P.O. Box 42501, Cincinnati, OH 45242 Sunscreens form one of the fastest growing markets in the cosmetics industry today. Sun protection factors are rapidly increasing, substantivity claims are being made by more products, and sun protec- tion is offered by a greater variety of cosmetics and personal care products than ever before. This session will review the evaluation of the performance of sunscreen products relative to the prevention of sunburn in humans. Disparity appears to exist be- tween the U.S. and German SPF values. These dif- ferences may be due to important contrasts between the two methods of indoor testing. Indoor test methods, both domestic and international, will be compared. Concerns have also been raised by the Germans and Japanese regarding the apparent lack of correlation between SPF values developed using indoor and outdoor methods. These concerns will be examined along with some of the factors which can influence the results of these tests. Sunscreens: Topical and systemic agents for protection of human skin Madhu A. Pathak, Ph.D, Harvard Medical School and Massachusetts General Hospital, Boston, MA 02114 In the prevention of sun-induced damage, three facts are important to recognize: 1) Solar UVB radi- ation (209-320 nm) is erythemogenic, carcino- genic, and induces skin aging (dermatoheliosis). 2) Long-wavelength UVA radiation (320-400 nm) is not innocuous certain wavelengths are erythemo- genic, carcinogenic, and induce DNA-thymine dimers and the generation of harmful forms of reac- tive oxygen species (e.g. 202, 07, 'OH, etc.) which damage cell membranes. 3) Sun-induced acute and chronic skin damage is directly related to the sun's UV intensity, duration of solar exposure, and is in- versely related to an individual's ability to develop melanized epidermis (tanning ability) and the ca- pacity to repair photodamaged DNA. We will re- view: 1) the methods to determine the sun protec- tion factor (SPF) value of topical sunscreens against UVB and UVA radiation 2) the technological ad- vances in the formulation of sweat- and water-resis- tant sunscreens for prolonged sunbathing 3) the SPF values of several brand-name formulations and their water-resistant properties 4) the photoprotec- tive property of melanin (suntan) and systemic sun- screens and 5) the potential undesirable side effects of topical sunscreens. Emphasis will be focused on the future needs of consumers. In vitro and animal models for sunscreen testing Homer S. Black, Ph.D., VA Medical Center, 2002 Holcomb Blvd., Bldg. 203, Houston, TX 77211 Ideally, the development and subsequent testing of potential sunscreens follows a multi-tiered schema --with in vitro methods occupying the first tier, followed by testing with animals, and finally with 287
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