j. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 37, 395-396 (September/October 1986) Book Review THE SCIENCE OF HAIR CARE, Charles Zviak, Ed. Marcel Decker, Inc., 270 Madison Avenue, New York, NY 10016, 1986. 624 pages. $99.75 (U.S. and Canada) $119.50 (All other coun- tries). This very useful book brings together much material, both basic and applied, about many aspects of hair, hair products, and hair disorders. Ten contributing au- thors joined Dr. Zviak in writing this book. Of its 23 chapters, 10 were written by Dr. Zviak, either alone or with a co- author. Twelve chapters that make up about 40% of its pages were written by dermatologists. The text combines the cosmetic science of hair and hair products with the dermatological aspects of dis- orders of the scalp and of hair. The book is very well organized, paragraphed, and sectioned. Titles are clear and their vari- ance in type size greatly facilitates the use of the book. The graphics, paper, and book quality are excellent. The text has both instructional and reference values. Its wide range is best served by listing its chapter titles with very brief reference to their contents. Chapter 1: Hair Structure Function and Physicochemical Properties. Hair follicle and structure. Hair: Dynamics (growth), types, chemistry, molecular structure, color and physical properties (mechanical, surface, contact with liquids or vapors). 82 references. Chapter 2: Scalp and Hair Hygiene. Shampoo: Definition, desired properties, action, surfactants (chemistry of), formu- lation, types, evaluation, safety. 101 ref- erences. Chapter 3: Hair Treatment and Hair Care Products. Scalp and hair treatment. Dandruff, seborrhea, hair loss, and their treatment. Hair care preparations: Their formulation and evaluation. Fine and limp hair. 94 references. Chapter 4: Hair Setting. Principles of hair setting, products for maintaining hair styles. Formulation principles, types, tox- icity, and evaluation. 76 references. Chapter 5: Permanent Waving and Hair Straightening. Hot waving. Cold waving: Ingredients, formulation, techniques and evaluation. Hair straightening. 112 refer- ences. Chapter 6: Hair Bleaching. Definition. Chemistry of. Oxidizing products. Formu- lation and techniques used of bleach- ing agents. Effects on hair. Evaluation of products. 39 references. Chapter 7: Hair Coloring--Non-Oxida- tion Coloring. Temporary and semi-perma- nent hair coloring. Direct dyeing. 40 ref- erences. Chapter 8: Oxidation Coloring. Dye in- termediate lists with structural activity (coloring) relationships. Oxidative mecha- nisms. Formulation of oxidation dyes-- basic principles. Product types. Bleaching and coloring. Extensive table: Color ob- tained by mixing aromatic bases with couplers. 28 references. Chapter 9: Toxicology and Hair Dyes. Physicochemical and technical character- istics of hair coloring--aspects of toxi- cology unique to hair coloring. Percu- taneous penetration and dye uptake. Epi- demiological research. Evaluating risks. 77 references. Chapter 10: Development of Hair Products. Laboratory tests prior to mar- 395

396 BOOK REVIEW keting: Safety and efficacy, using a met- rological approach. Tests on new in- gredients -- toxicology and functional properties. Tests on finished products-- safety, microbiological, physicochemical, packaging, efficacy (expert, clinical and consumer). Appendix of product safety test data. 47 references. Chapter 11: Laws and Regulations (U.S., Canada, Japan, and the European Economic Community). Legal status of toi- letry and cosmetic products. Regulations on ingredients. Safety and quality control. Labelling. Advertising control. Products with specific regulations. Comments on responding to regulations. Appendix of international laws and regulations. 91 ref- erences into 1985. Chapter 12: Skin Tests. Allergy types. Testing techniques, interpretations, and complications. 9 references. Chapter 13: Adverse Reactions to Hair Products. By class of product--local (mostly) and systematic. 33 references. Chapter 14: Occupational Disorders of Hair Dressers. Dermatitis. Nail changes. Pulmonary and other disorders. 25 refer- ences. Chapter 15: Hair Shaft Abnormalities. Eight types. Well illustrated. 5 refer- ences. Chapter 16: Greying of Hair. Brief with 3 references. Chapter 17: Alopecia. Three types. 18 references. Chapter 18: Seborrhea. Sebum and se- baceous glands. Functions and quantita- tive studies. Hair and skin oiliness. Ex- tensive with 90 references. Chapter 19: Dandruff. Diagnosis. Evaluation. Treatment. 21 references. Chapter 20: Exzematous Dermatitis of the Scalp. Types. Causes. Treatment. 7 refer- ences. Chapter 21: Scalp Dermatoses. Nine types--pathology, diagnosis, and treat- ment. Chapter 22: Hair Transplantation. Techniques. 7 references. Chapter 23: Hair and Psychology. Over- view. 16 references. The text covers a very wide array of topics, some briefer than the reader might wish. This appears to be more than bal- anced by the excellent writing and expla- nations of its authors and by the very nu- merous references at the end of almost every chapter. The references clearly cover 1984, and some are 1985 citations. By the liberal use of citation numbers, the reader is kept constantly in touch with the litera- ture. The text has a generous measure of illustrations, tables and graphs, all clearly done. If a reviewer is expected to find a shortcoming, one that can be offered is the omission of any citation by Dr. Albert Kligman at the end of the chapter on skin tests. The twelve chapters on dermatological aspects make up much of the book-- about 40%--and will probably serve as a convenient first step into the dermatolog- ical literature related to cosmetic science. An interesting and useful combination of material is thus provided in this text. The chapters on hair color and hair products will probably be the most sought after by the cosmetic scientist. These and the one on regulations justify a strong recommen- dation for the cosmetic scientist's ob- taining the book.--J. LEON LICHTIN, Ph.D.--Andrew Jergens Professor of Pharmacy, University of Cincinnati Col- lege of Pharmacy, Cincinnati, OH 45267.