396 JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS Dyestaining and the removal of cationics from keratin Clarence R. Robbins, Ph.D., Charles Reich, Ph.D., and Jane Clark, Ph.D., Colgate Palmolive Co., 909 River Road, Piscataway, N.J. 08854 The Red 80 dye staining procedure has been modi- fied to help serve as a tool to study the removal of cationic surfactants from keratin surfaces. Results from this method and radiotracer studies demon- strate that monofunctional cationic surfactants are not completely removed from hair by washing with anionic detergents. Shorter chain length anionics are more efficient for removing cationics than longer chain length anionics. When washing hair with sodium lauryl sulfate, significantly more lauryl sulfate is left behind on hair previously treated with cationic detergent than on hair con- taining no cationic detergent. Lipid components of conditioning products adsorb onto hair along with cationic actives. The ratio of lipid/cationic adsorbed increases with the ratio of lipid/cationic in the for- mulation. Conditioner lipids, to a certain extent, facilitate removal of the cation from the substrate however, evidence also suggests that they partici- pate in anionic detergent buildup on hair. Fully formulated conditioner products behave analo- gously to the binary systems containing cationic and lipid. Mechanisms will be proposed to provide working models to help explain these results. A contribution to understanding the nature of hair color L. Albrecht, S. K. Kurtz, Ph.D., and L. J. Wol- fram, Ph.D., Clairol, Inc., 2 Blachley Road, Stam- ford, CT 06922 A physicochemical model of natural hair color based on calculation of the diffuse reflectance of melanin dispersions in a keratin matrix has been developed. Using the results of exact Mie calculations of the scattering and absorption cross sections for indi- vidual pigment granules present in hair, we show that hair color is strongly influenced by the number and size of the pigment particles present in hair, number and size of voids, as well as the optical characteristics of the melanin (optical band gap). Experimental supports for the model stems from the measurements of the pigment particle distribution in hair of differing colors as well as from the direct color evaluation using diffuse reflectance spectro- photometry. Regulation factors controlling the androgen re- ceptor protein in isolated human hair follicles Marty E. Sawaya, M.D., Ph.D., Leonard Lewis, M.D., and S. L. Hsia, Ph.D., University of Miami, Department of Dermatology, P.O. Box 016960 R-117, Miami, FL 33101 Our present work involves using human tissue from hair transplant surgery to study the biochemical mechanisms involved in male pattern baldness. Iso- lated human hair follicles and sebaceous glands from scalp tissue were used to purify the male hor- mone receptor protein. Anagen and telogen hair follicles were used from the same individuals (60 patients) and compared for the content of androgen receptor protein. Our results found two forms of the androgen receptor protein, as well as two regulation proteins that control the receptor protein. The reg- ulation factors, called converting factor and inhib- itor protein, are found in active growing hair fol- licles. Further investigations of these factors are in progress and may indicate a more successful means of controlling these androgen-dependent skin dis- orders.

Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists INFORMATION FOR AUTHORS The JOURNAL OF THE SOC1ETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS publishes papers concerned with cos- metics or the sciences underlying cosmetics, as well as other papers of interest to SCC members. It is the function of the Editorial Committee to set standards, to judge the scientific merit of a paper, and to help in the editing of the paper and its preparation for press. The Editorial Committee is charged with the responsibility for the maintainance of the JOURNAL's high standards. It is therefore not the policy of the JOURNAL OF THE SOC1ETY OF COSMET1C CHEMISTS tO guarantee publication of all submitted papers. All papers presented before a meeting or seminar of the SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS or before one of its sections, or those papers submitted directly to the Editor will be considered for publication in the Journal. Papers presented before the SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS or one of its sections are the property of the SOCIETY and may not be published in or submitted to other journals. Only if the JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS is unable to publish a presented paper may it be published in another journal of the author's choice. SUBJECT MATTER The JOURNAL will consider manuscripts for publication in the following categories, provided they are prepared in proper scientific style and adequately referenced: 1. Original Articles. Descriptions of original research work in cosmetics or related areas. 2. General Articles. Articles of a general character may be considered for publication providing they are of a scientific and technical nature. These articles may be concerned with newer analytical techniques, developments in dermatology, toxicology, etc. 3. Review Articles. Intended to present an overview of recent advances in a specific area related to cosmetics. The author of such a review is expected to be actively engaged in the area and capable of presenting a critical evaluation of published reports of a scientific and technical nature. Solicited by special invitation from the Editor and Editorial Committee not subject to review by the Editorial Committee. 4. Preliminary Communications. Intended to provide for rapid dissemination of novel con- cepts and findings, such articles should not exceed four printed pages (approx. 10 double- spaced typed pages). Subject to review, but the time for editorial action will not exceed three weeks and the manuscripts will be published ahead of those submitted for regular processing. 5. Technical Notes. Relatively short manuscripts containing new information obtained by laboratory investigations, these do not contain the depth or extent of research involved in an Original Article. 6. Letters to the Editor. Comments on JOURNAL articles are invited, as well as brief contri- butions on any aspect of cosmetic or related science that does not warrant publication of a full-length paper in one of our other categories. May include figures and/or references, but brevity is necessary. 397