408 JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS NDELA concentration, 329 Lyotrope gradient methods phase properties of lipids, 159 Macrophotography chemical assessment of skin, 121 Magnesium nitrate emulsion vehicles and vasoconstrictor activity, 139 Make-up psychology of, 43 Manufacturing cosmetics phase properties, 159 Mass speetrometry reaction of dehydroacetic acid and formaldehyde, 85 Measurement adhesion sl•Sn modeI surface, 225 atomic absorption spectroscopy (AAS) silicones on hair, 383 gravimetric drandmff scaling, 179 n-nitrosodiethanolamine, 329 partition coefficients octanol-water, 169 peel force model skin surface, 225 percutaneous absorption stratum comeum permeability, 15 photoprotection human melanin, 347 profilometry hair surface, 27 protein binding bovine serum albumin, 169 spearman-rank correlations reservoir formation in skin, 169 surface area corneocytes, 15 topography skin, 367 transepidermal water loss (TEWL) forearm wash test, 355 stratum corneum permeability, 15 visocosity pharmaceutical -and cosmetic semisolids, 241 water flux skin, 367 Mechanical skin irritation method, 315 Melanin absorption spectrum uv range, 347 Melting point reaction of dehydroacetic acid sodium salt and formaldehyde, 85 Menthol flavor reIease dentrifice abrasives, 305 Menthane flavor release dentrifice abrasives, 305 Mesomorphs lipid properties, 159 Methandienone effect on acne vulgaris, 259 Methanol concentration determination retinyl palmitate, 235 dilutant calibration standards, 329 emulsion vehicle and vasoconstrictor activity, 139 reagent nitrosoalkanola_mine reagent, 133 Methodology atomic absorption spectroscopy silicones on human hair, 383 autoradiography stratum corneum penetration, 283 chlorination procedures effect on hair, 93 damaged-skin model skin irritation, 315 elemental analysis reaction of dehydroacetic acid and formaldehyde, 85 equilibrium, isoplethal method phase properties, 159 evaporimeter volatility of hydrocortisone 17-valerate, 139 forearm wash tests mildness, 355 fourier analysis hair growth rate, 27 gas chromatography determination of n-nitrosoalkamines in alkanolamines, 133 quantitative assay, 329 gravimetric dandruff scaling, 179 headspace-gas chromatographic analysis availability of dentrifice flavor oil, 305 headspace gas chromatography, 1 H-NMR reaction of dehydroacetic acid and formaldehyde, 85 in vitro transepidermal water loss, 107 karl-fischer titration shampoo analysis, 191 liquid scintillation counting stratum corneum penetration, 283 lyotrope gradient method phase properties, 159 macrophotography clinical condition of skin, 121 mass spectrometry reaction of dehydroacetic acid and formaldehyde, 85 modified flow-through diffusion apparatus, 107 near-infrared reflectance analysis process control of shampoo, 191 non-invasive exfoliative cytology physical properties of corneocytes, 53 normal stress viscosity measurement, 241 oil film integrity evaluation W1/0/W2 emulsions, 211 potentiometric titration cocamidopropylamine oxide content, 69 silicone elastomer skin topography replication, 225 temperature gradient method phase properties, 159 time-resolved x-ray diffraction phase identification, 159 titanometric titration combined with two-phase titration cocamidopropylamine oxide content, 69 twist measuring friction, 93 viscosity of semisolids, 241 visual evaluation of skin irritation, 315 weighing volatility of hydrocortisone 17-valerate, 139 x-ray analysis reaction of dehydroacetic acid and formaldehyde, 85 Methoxypsoralen reservoir formation in skin 5-MOP, 8-MOP, 169

SUBJECT INDEX 409 Methyl ethyl ketone (MEK) extraction NDELA sample, 329 Methyl iodide amine group blocker, 69 Methyl isobutylketone (MIBK) sample preparation silicone on hair, 383 Methyl orange in two-phase titration, 69 Methyl red Ln methanol nitrosoalkanolamine determination, 133 Methyltestosterone effect on bacteria growth, 259 Mice skin effect of retinyl palmitate, 235 penetration, 275 Micelies n-nitrosamine formation, 329 Microemulsions preparation of, 201 Microscopy characterization encapsulated water phase, 211 Mineral oil contact angles model skin surface, 225 effect on water permeability, 107 emulsion composition, 283 emulsion vehicles and vasoconstrictor activity, 139 multiple emulsions stability, 211 Mixtures standard preservative reaction of dehydroacetic acid and formaldehyde, 85 Moisturizers efficacy of, 107 Mold preservative mixtures, 85 Mooney equation viscosity measurement, 211 5-MOP test compound reservoir formation in skin, 169 8-MOP test compound reservoir formation in skin, 169 Morphology corneocytes exfoliative cytology, 53 hair chlorination effects, 93 skin effect of Vitamin A, 235 Motretinid exfoliative cytology exposure to human skin, 53 NaC! labeled alpha chain purification, 275 Nadrolone effect on bacteria vulgaris, 259 Native co!!agen penetration mouse skin, 275 Near-infrared reflectance analysis shampoo process control, 191 N-hexyl alcohol conductivity solvent assay of NDELA, 329 Nicotinamide test compound reservoir formation in skin, 169 Nicotinic acid reservoir formation in skin, 169 Nitrogen histological evaluation of skin, 235 in titanometric titration, 69 reagent nitrosoalkanolamine determination, 133 N-methyI-N-trimethylsilylheptafiuorobutyr- amide (MSHFBA) reagent nitrosoalkanolamine determination, 133 N-nitrosamines (NDELA) quantitative assay gas chromatography, 329 N-nitrosoalkanolamines in alkanolamines, 133 N-nitrosodiethanolamine assay creams/ lotions, 329 Non-ionic emulsifiers, 139 Occlusive agents oils effect on TEWL rate, 107 Occlusivity effect of phase-volume ratio in formulas, 139 Octanol emulsion vehicles and vasoconstrictor activity, 139 solubility reservoir formation in skin, 169 Octanol/water partition coefficient (o/w k) reservoir formation in skin, 169 Odor emulsion vehicles cosmetic acceptance evaluation, 139 Oil dentrifice flavor, 305 ffim integrity, 211 mineral hydrocortisone 17-valerate o/w emulsions, 139 phase properties 159 cosmetic formulation, 235 preparation of microemulsions, 201 skin moisturizers mineral castor and sesame, 107 Optical discrimination, 121 Optical microscopy human hair surface structure, 27 Organic solvent silicones on hair, 383 Organosiloxane enzyme digestion of hair samples liquid-liquid extraction, 383 O/W emulsion systems occlusivity, 139 Oxidation dyeing chlorine-hair interaction, 93 skin surface lipids, 1 structure-activity relationship metabolic activation, 329 Oxyhemoglobin skin absorption, 347 Overtones near infrared region composition, 191 Pain skin irritation new model, 315 Papain enzyme silicone on hair, 383 Parakeratotic index nucleated cell measurement dandruff scaling, 179 Partition coefficients octanol-water, 169 Paste humectant systems dentrifice abrasives and flavor release, 305 Patch test skin cleansers mildness, 355 Peak density profilometry of hair, 27 Peel force measurements model skin surface, 225 PEG 1500 isotropicity, 241 Penetration hairless mouse skin native collagen, collagen alpha chains, and collagen cyanogen