410 JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS bromide peptides, 265 human stratum corneum 2-(alkoyloxy)- 1- [(alkoyloxy)methyl]-ethyl-7-(4-heptyl-5,6)- dicarboxy-2-cyclohexene- 1-yl) heptanoate, 283 Penicillin assay agar plate preparation, 259 collagen sample maintenance, 275 Perception consumer evaluations skin irritation, 315 human taste dentrifice, 305 Percutaneous absorption mouse skin, 275 NDELA, E reservoir formation, 169 stratum corneum, 15 Permanent waving chlorine-hair interaction, 93 Permeability skin moisturizing agents, 107 relationship with corneocyte size, 15 vasoconstrictor activity, 139 stratum comeurn, 267 Permed hair effect of chlorination, 93 Personality effect of make-up, 43 Petrolatum isotropicity, 241 o/w emulsion systems occlusivity, 139 pH aqueous phase, 211 bleach treatment, 93 brine solution, 201 effect of anionic detergents, 267 hair swelling behavior, 27 hydrocortisone 17-valerate cream, 139 labeled alpha chain purification, 275 Triton-X 100 phosphate buffer, 179 Pharmaceutical semisolids viscosity, 241 Phase behavior carboxylic acid, 283 Phase properties lipids and oils, 159 volume ratio multiple emulsions, 211 Phase-volume ratio vasoconstrictor activity, 139 Phosphate buffer corneocyte counts, 179 stability of multiple emulsions, 211 Phosphoric reagent atomic absorption spectroscopy assay, 383 Phosphoric acid in HPLC, 85 Photography polarized optical discrimination of skin, 121 Photoprotection human melanin ultraviolet, 347 Physical effects glycerol human skin, 367 Physical properties human hair fibers, 93 model skin surface, 225 of corneocytes, 53 oil film integrity, 211 shampoo, 191 stability hydrocortisone 17-valerate, 139 Pigment skin UUB absorption, 347 Polar force human skin model surface, 225 Polarity of emollient effect on TEWL, 107 Polarized illumination system 121 Polyethylene glycol viscosity measurement normal stress, 241 Polymers organosiloxane silicone in hair, 383 Polyporphyre dye marker oil film integrity, 211 Polysorbate 80 surfactant stability of multiple emulsions, 211 Polytartrazine aqueous phase stability of multiple emulsions, 211 Porcine model skin surface formulation, 225 Post auricular stratum corneum permeability, 15 Potassium sulfate emulsion vehicles and vasoconstfictor activity, 139 Potassium thiocyanate oil film integrity ion release, 211 Potentiometric titration cocamidopropylamine oxide content, 69 Pregnenolone sebaceous glands stimulation, 291 Preparation microemulsions order of mixing, 201 topical adrenal steroid, 291 Preservatives in cosmetics, 85 sorbic acid in hydrocortisone 17-valerate, 139 Process control shampoo near infrared reflectance analysis, 191 Profile length profilometry of hair, 27 Prof'dometry hair fiber surface, 27 Properties of corneocytes effects of topical retinoids, 53 of hair, 93 Propionibacterium acnes effect of testosterone and anabolic steroids, 259 Propylene glycol dissolvant exposure to human skin, 53 in hydrocortisone 17-valerate cream, 139 reservoir formation in skin, 169 Protein binding bovine serum albumin, 169 collagen, 275 model skin surface, 225 skin surface effect of retinyl palmirate, 235 Protein/!ipid ratio model skin surface, 225 Psychological cosmetic therapy for elderly, 43 Psychophysics model for skin irritation, 315 Pyridine dilutant NDELA assay, 329 Qualitative parameters of stratum comeurn, 53 sample plug height variation viscosity of semisolids, 241 topical administration NDELA, 329

SUBJECT INDEX 411 x-ray diffraction phase characterization, 159 Quantitative assay n-nitrosoamines, 329 dandruff scaling methodology, 179 flavor binding dentrifices, 305 near-infrared reflectance analysis, 191 optical discrimination in skin, 121 parameters of stratum comeum, 53 x-ray diffraction phase characterization, 159 Radioactivity [3H]-proline-labeled collagen penetration, 275 test compounds reservoir formation in skin, 169 tritium-labeled water, 107 Rat skin reservoir formation, 169 Rate transepidermal water loss, 107 weight loss chlorinated hair, 93 Reactor furnace temperatures optimization for nitrosyl radical, 329 Reagent atomic absorption spectroscopy assay siloxanes on hair, 383 emulsion vehicles and vasoconstrictor activity, 139 H202 in bleach treatment, 93 nitrosoalkanolamine determination, 133 Receptor phase native propionated collagen recovery of radioactive label, 275 Redness depolarized light optical discrimination, 121 skin condition evaluation, 355 Reflected light optical discrimination of skin, 121 Reflection spectroscopy optical discrimination of skin, 121 Reproducibility methodology silicones on hair, 383 profilometry of hair, 27 Reservoir formation in skin, 169 Refinoic acid effect on skin, 235 Retinoids topical effects of human skin, 53 Retinol skin development, 235 Retinyl palmitate concentration cosmetic formulation, 235 Rheology human skin adhesion, 225 Roughness hair surface, 27 Salicylic acid reservoir formation in skin, 169 Sampling headspace techniques volatile compounds, 1 Scaling dandruff, 179 effects of topical retinoids, 53 Scalp scaling, 179 volatile compounds headspace gas chromatography, 1 Scanning electron microscope human hair surface, 27 Scattering anisotropy optical discrimination of skin, 121 Seasonal variation of human stratum comeum, 53 Sebaceous gland stimulation dehydroepiandrosterone, 291 $eborheic dermatitis dandruff scaling, 179 $ebum production, 291 Self-image effect of cosmetics, 43 Self-perception effect of cosmetics, 43 Semisolids pharmaceutical and cosmetic viscosity, 241 $emms-Weinstein aesthesiometer ($WA) new model for skin irritation, 315 Sensory skin evaluation, 355 Sesame oil effect on water permeability, 107 Sex effect on soap treatment forearm wash test, 355 stratum comeum permeability, 15 Shampoo dandruff scaling methodology, 179 hair treatment, 27 process control near-infrared reflectance analysis, 191 Shear rate measuring viscosity, 241 Shear stress measuring viscosity, 241 Silica gel reagent nitrosoalkanolamine determination, 133 Silicones human hair atomic absorption spectroscopy, 383 Size corneocyte effects of topical retinoids, 53 distribution oil globules in emulsion, 211 Skin absorption eumelanin, 347 androgenic steroid effects production of propionibacterial enzyme, 259 composition effect of vitamin A, 235 cosmetic therapy, 43 glycerin treatment physical effects, 367 human cleansing products, 355 effect of artionic detergent, 267 effects of topical retinoids, 53 interactions with 2-(alkoyloxy) l-[(alkoyloxy)methyl]- ethyl-7-(4-heptyl-5,6)-dicarboxy-2- cyclohexene-l-yl) heptanoate, 283 improved optical discrimination, 121 irritation effect of anionic detergents, 267 new model, 315 moisturizing agents, 107 mouse penetration, 275 permeation relationship to comeocyte size, 15 vasoconstrictor activity, 139 reservoir formation, 169 surface model adhesion, 225