404 JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS Depression effect of cosmetic therapy, 43 Derivatization detection of NDELA cosmetics, 329 Dermal composition effect of retinoids, 235 Dermatitis effect of topical retinoids, 53 Desiccant calcium chloride method for TEWL, 107 Desquamation effects of topical retinoids, 53 Detergents anionic pH effects on skin, 267 Dew point bar soap composition, 355 Diameter semi-solids measuring viscosity, 241 Dicalcium phosphate dihydrate (dical) abrasive effect on flavor release from dentrifices, 305 Dichloroethane cosmetic sample cleanup, 329 Diethanolamine nitrosoalkanolamine determination, 133 Differential pulse polarography NDELA trace level analysis, 329 Diffuse reflectance spectra human melanin, 347 Diffusion marker selection oil film integrity, 211 Dihydrotestosterone reservoir formation in skin, 169 Diiodomethane contact angle model skin surface, 225 3,7-dimethyl-lH,9H,10H-di-pyrano- [4,3-b:3',4'-e]pyran-l,9-dione reaction of hydroacetic acid sodium salt with formaldehyde, 85 Dimethylpolysiloxane fluids AAS calibration, 383 Dimethyl sulfoxide effect on absorption, 275 Dimidium bromide in two-phase titration, 69 Dispersive force human skin model surface, 225 Distribution size oil globules in emulsion, 211 volatile compounds human hair, 1 Disulfine blue in two-phase titration, 69 DNA content effect of retinyl palmirate, 235 DOPA-melanin skin UV absorption, 347 Double-junction reference electrode anionic surfactant measurement, 191 Dryness skin condition evaluation, 355 Duhring chamber tests skin irritancy, 267 Dye hair effect of chlorination, 93 marker characterization of multiple emulsions, 211 Dynamic headspace sampling volatile compounds, 1 Eagle's minimal essential medium, 275 Edema skin irritation visual evaluation, 315 Efficacy therapeutic topical corticosteroids, 139 Efficiency new approaches to study phase properties, 159 tritium-labeled water method water loss, 107 Electrolytic conductivity detector gas chromatography quantitative assay, 329 Electrical impedance stratum corneum hydration, 367 Electron capture detection NDELA trace level analysis, 329 Elemental analysis reaction of dehydroacetic acid and formaldehyde, 85 Ellipticity fiber, 27 Emollient materials effects of TEWL, 107 Emulsions alkanolamines cosmetic formulation, 133 cosmetic penetration, 283 reaction of dehydroacetic acid sodium salt and formaldehyde, 85 dye treatment, 93 manufacture of amine oxides, 69 micro preparation, 201 model skin surface formulation, 225 moisturizing effect on TEWL, 107 multiple assessment of stability in water-in-oil-in-water, 211 oil in water cosmetic formulations, 235 NDELA formation, 329 siloxanes hair, 383 topical treatment skin, 367 tributyrin propiobacterial enzyme on skin, 259 vasoconstrictor effect of phase-volume ratio, 139 Enthalpy values microemulsion preparation system, 201 Entropy values microemulsion preparation system, 201 Enzyme digestion of hair samples silicone, 383 production effect of testosterone and anabolic steroids, 259 Ephedrine hydrochloride oil film integrity ion release, 211 Epidermal melanin pigmentation (EMP) human skin pigment, 347 Epidermis barrier effect of corneocyte size, 15 effect of retinyl palmirate, 235 penetration [3H]-propionylated collagen, 275 turnover corneocyte counts, 53 water loss in vitro method, 107 Equation anisotropy, 121 catalytic reaction pathways assay of NDELA, 329 linearity of detector response assay of NDELA, 329

SUBJECT INDEX 405 NDELA derivatization by acetylation and trimethylsilylation, 329 near-infrared reflectance analysis shampoo sample concentration, 191 penetration of triglyceride into skin, 283 permeability constant, 139 plastometer, 241 shear stress, 241 silicon concentration human hair, 383 young equilibrium of liquids on solids, 225 Equilibrium binding constants reservoir formation in skin, 169 lipids mesomorphic phase data, 159 volatile compounds headspace gas chromatography, 1 Equilibrium dialysis protein binding bovine serum dialysis, 169 Equipment aesthesiometer skin sensation measurement, 315 beckman scintillation counter radioactivity, 275 CEM automatic volatility computer solid determination, 191 centrifuge NDELA assay, 329 constant-rate-of-extension tensile tester fiber and knot breaking tenacity, 93 coulter counter water loss, 211 dosimat water content, 225 electrolytic conductivity detector gas chromatography, 329 evaporimeter water volatility and transepidermal water loss, 139 freezing microtone preparation of excised human skin, 139 gas chromatograph dentrifice abrasives and flavor release, 305 gas chromatograph connected to a thermal energy analyzer nitrosoalkanolamine determination, 133 goniometer contact angles, 225 hemocytometer, 53 corneocyte count, 179 IEC clinical R centrifuge sample preparation of hair, 383 illuminated magnifying lamp skin condition evaluation, 355 integrator recorder, 139 liquid chromatograph, 139 HPLC, 85 mass spectrometer, 85 mechanical shaker sample preparation of hair, 383 modified flow through diffusion apparatus, 107 pehameter potentiometric titration, 69 penetrometer consistency determination, 139 phase-delay meter electrical characteristics of skin, 367 pH meter pH determination, 139 phototherapy radiometer irradiance, 347 rotary evaporator NDELA assay, 329 rotoviscometer measuring viscosity, 241 scanning electron microscope surface morphology of hair, 93 servomed EP1 evaporimeter water flux, 367 spectrofluorimeter optical discrimination of skin, 121 spectrometer atomic absorption assay, 383 HPLC, 85 spectrophotometer absorbance, 211 technicon infra analyzer reflectance spectra, 191 TRXRD apparatus phase properties of lipids, 159 ultrasonicator parakeratotic index, 179 vortex genie mixer NDELA assay, 329 water purification system, 139 Erythema depolarized light optical discrimination, 121 effects of topical retinoids, 53 skin melanin level, 347 skin irritation visual evaluation, 315 Ester assay of NDELA, 329 Ethanol dissolvant exposure to human skin, 53 water mixture in titanometric titration, 69 Ether sebum excretion rate measurement, 291 Ethyl benzoate emulsion vehicles and vasoconstrictor activity, 139 Ethyleneglycol contact angles model skin surface, 225 surfactant, 15 Ethylformate reagent nitrosoalkanolamine determination, 133 Eumalanin photoprotection, 347 Evaporation water dry residue in commercial products, 69 Exfoliative cytology stratum corneum, 53 Extraction siloxanes human hair, 383 Exudation effects of topical retinoids, 53 Face cutaneous deterioration, 43 Fibers hair surface, 27 human hair effect of chlorination and a cosmetic treatment, 93 Ficks law calculation of permeability constant, 139 Flaking skin irritation visual evaluation, 315 Flame ionization detection NDELA trace level analysis, 329 Flavor binding effect of abrasives on dentrifices, 305