412 JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS surface lipids (SSL) scalp, 1 hair, 1 Smoothness skin condition evaluation, 355 skin surface glycerin treatment on skin, 367 Soap forearm wash test, 355 Sociological cosmetic therapy for skin, 43 Sodium chloride emulsion vehicles and vasoconstrictor activity, 139 oil film integrity ion release, 211 Sodium laurate bar soap mildness, 355 Sodium lauryl sulfate in hydrocortisone 17-valerate cream, 139 reference analytical methods process control of shampoo, 191 solution in dye treatment, 93 Sodium nitrate reference analytical methods process control of shampoo, 191 Sodium phosphate buffer protein binding, 169 emulsion vehicles and vasoconstrictor activity, 139 Sodium sulfate reagent nitrosoalkanolamine determination, 133 Sodium sulfite silicone on hair, 383 Sodium tetrapropylenebenzenesulphonate solution in two-phase titration, 69 Solid reference analytical methods process control of shampoo, 191 Solubility marker selection oil film integrity, 211 organosiloxane organic solvents, 383 reservoir formation in skin, 169 Solubilizer propylene glycol in hydrocortisone 17-valerate, 139 Solution aqueous analysis of cocamidopropylamine oxide, 69 glycerol, 367 reaction of dehydroacetic acid and formaldehyde, 85 silicones on hair, 383 sodium lauryl ether sulfate, 179 chlorine effect on hair, 93 detergent comeocyte sampling, 15 isotretinoin-acetone exfoliative cytology, 53 sodium lauryl sulfate dye treatment, 93 sodium tetrapropylenebenzenesulphonate in two-phase titration, 69 Solvent organic silicones on hair, 383 with lipid mesomorphic phases, 159 Sorbic acid emulsion vehicles and vasoconstrictor activity, 169 Sorbitan mono-oleate surfactant stability of multiple emulsions, 211 Sorbitol effect on flavor binding of abrasives, 305 Spectrum H-NMR reaction of dehydroacetic acid sodium salt and formaldehyde, 85 human melanin absorbance, 347 polarized reflected light optical discrimination, 121 Spreadability emulsion vehicles cosmetic acceptance evaluation, 139 Stability mesomorphic phases lipids and oils, 159 microemulsions, 201 multiple emulsions, 211 physical emulsion vehicles, 139 preservative mixtures, 85 Stabilizer stearyl alcohol in hydrocortisone 17-valerate, 139 Stanozolol effect on acne vulgaris, 259 Static sampling volatile compounds, 1 Stearyl alcohol in hydrocortisone 17-valerate, 139 Steroids adrenal topical preparation, 291 anabolic effect on enzyme production and development of acne vulgaris, 259 Stochastic damage hair waviness, 27 Stratum comeurn exfoliative cytology techniques and applications, 53 penetration, 275 283 permeability, 15 physical effects glycerol, 367 reservoir formation in skin, 169 skin irritation surfactants, 267 water content, 225 Streptomycin collagen sample maintenance, 275 Stress viscosity measurement semisolids, 241 Structure interaction between dehydroacetic acid sodium salt and formaldehyde, 85 surface profile of hair, 27 Styli axe-shaped and pyramidal surface profilometry, 27 Sunscreen skin protection, 43 Superfatting bar soap composition forearm wash test, 355 Surface active amine oxides commercial products, 69 hair, 27 lipids headspace sampling, 1 model skin adhesion, 225 skin effects of corneocyte distribution, 15 effect of retinyl palmitate, 235 effects of topical retinoids, 53 skin profile smoothing, 367 tension polar/lipid ratio, 225

SUBJECT INDEX 413 Surface morphology hair effect of chlorination, 93 Surface topography optical discrimination of skin, 121 Surfac•nt anionic analysis of cocamidopropylamine oxide, 69 process control of shampoo, 191 concentration aqueous phases, 211 electrode anionic measurement, 191 ethylene glycol, 15 irritancy human skin, 267 microemulsion preparation, 201 non-ionic emulsifier, 139 synthetic bar soap composition, 355 Swelling hair fibers aqueous media, 27 stratum corneum, 267 Synchrotron x-radiation phase properties of lipids, 159 Tactile skin evaluation, 355 Tallow/coconut ratio soap bar composition mildness, 355 Taste perception dentrifice, 305 Techniques equilibrium lipid phase properties, 159 exfoliative cytology, 53 shampoo influence in vivo and in vitro, 27 silicone elastomer replication model skin surface, 225 Temperature effect on commercial amine oxide solids content, 69 percutaneous absorption collagen, 275 preparation of microemulsions, 201 transepidermal water loss, 107 stability of mesomorphic phases lipids and oils, 159 Temperature gradient method phase properties of lipids, 159 Tensility hair effect of chlorination, 93 Tension surface, model skin, 225 Testosterone effect on development of acne vulgaris, 259 on enzyme production, 259 reservoir formaion in skin, 169 Tetrahydrofuran (THF) marker determination stability of multiple emulsions, 211 Tetramethylguanidine reagent atomic absorption spectroscopy assay, 383 Texture emulsion vehicles cosmetic acceptance evaluation, 139 Therapy cosmetic for facial problems, 43 Thermal energy analyzer (TEA) NDELA concentration cosmetics, 329 Thermodynamic activity hydrocortisone 17-valerate, 139 Thermodynamic properties microemulsions, 201 Thickening agent carbopol in hydrocortisone 17-valerate, 139 Thickness comeocyte exfoliative cytology, 53 skin effect of retinyl palmitate, 235 Thioglycolate waving lotion, 93 TiC!s titrant analysis of cocamidopropylamine oxide, 69 Time function of oil film integrity determination, 211 penetration radioactive-labeled alpha 1 chain, 275 stimulation of sebaceous glands topical applications, 291 transepidermal water loss, 197 Tissue skin effect of retinyl palmitate, 235 Titanometric titration with two-phase titration cocamidopropylamine oxide content, 69 Tolerance skin effects of topical retinoids, 53 Topical corticosteroids occlusivity, 139 preparations dehydroepiandrosterone, 291 retinoids effects on human skin, 53 retinyl palmitate skin position and morphometry, 235 Topography skin model surface, 225 skin surface measurement, 367 Touch skin irritation new model, 315 Toxicity preservative mixture in cosmetics, 85 Training set shampoo NIR spectroscopy, 191 Transepidermal water loss (TEWL) forearm wash test mildness, 355 glycerin treatment skin, 367 in vitro method, 107 stratum corneum, 15 vasoconstrictor activity, 139 Transmission spectroscopy optical discrimination of skin, 121 Tretinoin exposure to skin exfoliative effects, 53 Triamcinolone acetonide reservoir formation in skin, 169 Tributyrin agar plates, 259 Triethanolamine systems NDELA formation, 329 Triglyceride structure, 283 Trimethylsilyl ester, 329 Tris-Hcl labeled alpha chain purification, 275 Triton-X 100 phosphate buffer comeocyte counts, 179 Tukey's Honestly Significant Difference Test (HSD) emulsion vehicles cosmetic acceptance evaluation, 139