406 JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS Flexibility stratum corneum, 367 Flux skin permeability, 139 transepidermal water loss, 107 water diffusion coefficient, 211 glycerin treatment, 367 Forearm stratum corneum permeability, 15 wash test mildness, 355 Forehead stratum corneum permeability, 15 Formaldehyde interaction with dehydroacetic acid sodium salt, 85 model skin surface formulation, 225 Fourier analysis hair growth rate, 27 Fragrance the psychology of, 43 Free amine content in cocamidopropylamine oxide, 69 Free energy values microemulsion preparation system, 201 Free fatty acids pathogenesis of ache vulgaris, 259 Friction skin hydration, 367 Frictional properties hair effect of chlorination, 93 surface, 27 Fugizone collagen sample maintenance, 275 Fumaric acid reservoir formation in skin, 169 Gas chromatography glycerol determination process control of shampoo, 191 headspace volatile compound identification, 1 nitrosoalkanolamine determination, 133 quantitative assay n-nitrosoamines, 329 Gaseous phase volatile compounds, 1 Gas flow rate electrolytic conductivity detector optimization, 329 Gel exfoliative cytology exposure to human skin, 53 humectant systems binding to flavor, 305 Gelatin crosslinked protein model skin surface, 225 Glacial acetic acid emulsion inhibition cosmetic sample cleanup, 329 Gloss hair surface cosmetic treatments, 27 Glycerin in water effect on permeability, 107 Glycerine effect on flavor binding of abrasives, 305 Glycerol contact angles model skin surface, 225 humectant physical effects, 367 process control of shampoo, 191 reservoir formation in skin, 169 Glycosaminoglycan synthesis effect of retinoids, 235 Gravimetric procedure scaling in dandruff, 179 Greasiness emulsion vehicle cosmetic acceptance evaluation, 139 Growth hair, 27 topical application of DHEA, 291 Guanine alkylation carcinogenesis, 329 Hair care the psychology of, 43 chlorine interaction, 93 compounds headspace gas chromatography, 1 growth sebaceous gland stimulation, 291 human silicones, 383 surface profile, 27 [3H]-amino acid-labeled cyanogen bromide collagen peptides penetration hairless mouse skin, 275 Hamsters method for TEWL, 107 sebaceous gland stimulation, 291 Iteadspace gas chromatography, 1 availability of dentrifice flavor oil, 305 Iteight semisolids measuring viscosity, 241 Itellure carrier gas assay of NDELA, 329 dentrifice abrasives and flavor release, 305 Itexane sebum excretion rate measurement, 291 High performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) NDELA concentration cosmetics, 329 Hirsutism sebaceous gland stimulation, 291 H-NMR reaction of dehydroacetic acid and formaldehyde, 85 Homogeneity emulsion vehicles cosmetic acceptance evaluation, 139 Horny cells dandruff, 179 [3H]-propionylated collagen penetration hairless mouse skin, 275 Human hair effect of chlorination with a cosmetic treatment, 93 measurement of surface profile, 27 silicones, 383 volatile compounds, 1 perception taste, 305 skin effect of anionic detergents, 267 effects of topical retinoids in vitro permeation studies, 139 melanin, 347 optical discrimination, 121 stratum comeurn exfoliative cytology, 53 penetration, 283 Humectant glycerin in water effect on TEWL rate, 107 glycerol physical effects, 367 Humectant systems dentfifice abrasives flavor release, 305 Humidity effect on hair surface, 27 on TEWL, 107 Hyaluronidase effect on acne vulgaris, 259

SUBJECT INDEX 407 Hyamine potentiometric titration anionic surfactant measurement, 191 Hydrated alumina abrasive effect on flavor release from dentrifices, 305 Hydrated precipitated silica abrasive effect on flavor release from dentrifice, 305 Hydration stratum corneum, 107, 367 Hydrochloric acid concentrated silicone on hair, 383 reagent nitrosoalkanolamine determination, 133 Hydrocortisone test compounds reservoir formation in skin, 169 Hydrocortisone 17-valerate (HCV) in vasoconstrictor emulsions, 139 Hydrogen bonding physical properties of shampoo, 191 reaction gas assay of NDELA, 329 Hydrogen chloride skin irritation chemical method, 315 Hydrogen peroxide neutralizer in penn treatment, 93 Hydroxide ion formation anionic detergents with bovine serum albumin, 267 17ot-hydroxy pregnenolone sebaceous gland stimulation, 291 Hydroxyproline collagen penetration, skin, 275 Imidazolidinylurea derivatives reaction with dehydroacetic acid sodium salt, 85 Inflammation dandruff scaling, 179 In vitro adhesion to skin, 225 effect of anionic surface active agents, 267 hair surface influence of hair care products, 27 human skin permeation studies, 139 penetration hairless mouse skin, 275 reservoir formation in skin, 169 stratum corneum glycerin treatment, 367 transepidermal water loss, 107 In vivo adhesion to skin, 225 evaluation of skin, 121 hair surface influence of hair care products, 27 stratum corneum glycerin treatment, 367 vasoconstriction activity of HCV emulsion, 139 I-octane reagent nitrosoalkanolamine determination, 133 Iodine collagen tag penetration, 275 Irritancy effect of anionic detergents human skin, 267 effects of topical retinoids, 53 skin effect of retinyl palmitate, 235 new model, 315 Isobaric temperature-composition phase diagram, 159 Isooctane concentration determination retinyl palmitate, 235 Isopleths lipids temperature effect, 159 Isopropranol concentration determination retinyl palmitate, 235 Isopropyl alcohol potentiometric titration analysis of cocamidopropylamine oxide, 69 Isopropyl myristate stratum corneum interaction, 283 Isotherm lipids temperature effect, 159 Isothiazolinone derivatives reaction with dehydroacetic acid sodium salt, 85 Isotretinoin exfoliative cytology on human skin, 53 Keratin fibers chlorination, 93 Ketones volatile compounds human hair, 1 Kinetics n-nitrosamines formation, 329 of disappearance reaction of dehydroacetic acid sodium salt with formaldehyde, 85 scale production dandruff, 179 water flux, 211 Knot strength hair effects of chlorination, 93 •/-lactones volatile compounds human hair, 1 Lanolin emulsion composition, 283 Laurylamidopropylamine oxide (C12NNO) analysis of amine oxides in commercial products, 69 Lauryl ether sulfate shampoo scaling in dandruff, 179 Light absorption skin, 347 polarized optical skin discrimination, 121 Linear regression in near-infrared reflectance analysis, 191 Lipase production effect of testosterone and anabolic steroids, 259 Lipids model skin surface, 225 phase diagrams, 159 phase properties, 159 octanol reservoir formation in skin, 169 skin surface 1, stratum corneum composition, 15 Lipoidal phase octanol/water partition coefficient, 169 Liquid-crystalline state lipids, 159 Liquid scintillation radioactivity determination tritium-labeled water, 107 Liquid scintillation counting stratum corneum penetration acid, 283 Lithium chloride emulsion vehicles and vasoconstrictor activity, 139 Location penetration of triglyceride human skin, 283 Lotion mineral oil emulsion skin treatment, 367