402 JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS Amine oxide content in commercial cocamidopropylamine oxide, 69 Ammonium hydroxide bleach treatment, 93 Ammonium sulphamate solution cosmetic sample cleanup, 329 Analysis atomic absorption spectroscopy silicones on hair, 383 headspace dentrifice abrasives and flavor release, 305 Anatomic site corneocyte size-skin permeability relationship, 15 Androgen dihydrotestosterone sebaceous gland growth, 291 effects on skin propionibacterial enzyme production, 259 5-androstene-31•-171•-diol sebaceous gland stimulation, 291 Androstanedione sebaceous gland stimulation, 291 Androsterone sebaceous gland stimulation, 291 Anionic detergents effect on human skin, 267 surfactant process control of shampoo, 191 Anisotropy optical discrimination of skin, 121 Appearance emulsion vehicles cosmetic acceptance evaluation, 139 Applications exfoliative cytology, 53 Aqueous phase microemulsion preparation, 201 octanol/water partition coefficient, 169 oil film integrity determination, 211 solution cocamidopropylamine oxide in commercial products, 69 glycerol treatment, 367 reaction of dehydroacetic acid and formaldehyde, 85 silicones on hair, 383 sodium lauryl ether sulfate, 179 Arm stratum comeurn permeability, 15 Arrhenius relationship, 107 Ascorbic acid labeled collagen preparation, 275 Aspirin test compound reservoir formation in skin, 169 Assay atomic absorption silicones on hair, 383 n-nitrosamines gas chromatography, 329 Atomic absorption spectroscopy silicones human hair, 383 Atrophy effect of retinoids, 235 Attractiveness use of cosmetics, 43 Autoradiography stratum comeurn penetration acid, 283 Bacteria growth on skin, 259 Bands combination near-infrared region, 191 Barrier properties horny layer stratum comeurn, 15 Benzoic acid permeability stratum corneum, 15 reservoir formation in skin, 169 Benzyl alcohol contact angles model skin surface, 225 process control of shampoo, 191 Beta aminopropionitrile fumarate labeled collagen preparation, 275 Binding flavor dentrifice abrasives, 305 protein bovine serum albumin, 169 siloxanes human hair, 383 Biochemical effects of Vitamin A, 235 Biorhythm surface profile of hair, 27 Bleach hair combined with chlorination, 93 cosmetic treatment, 27 Blonde hair cosmetic treatment, 27 effect of chlorination, 93 Bovine serum albumin (BSA) protein binding, 169 with anionic detergents effect on hydroxide ion formation, 267 Brain heart infusion agar preparation of tributyrin agar plates, 259 Bromonitropropandiol derivatives reaction with dehydroacetic acid sodium salt, 85 Brown hair cosmetic treatment, 27 effect of chlorination, 93 Buffer acetonitrile/phosphate in HPLC, 85 phosphate hydrocortisone 17-valerate, 139 stability of multiple emulsions, 211 sodium phosphate protein binding, 169 triton-X 100 phosphate, 179 Caffeine reservoir formation in skin, 169 Calcium chloride transepidermal water loss, 107 Calf serum collagen sample maintenance, 275 Calibration instrument sample analysis, 383 standards stock solutions, 329 Carbopol thickening agent hydrocortisone 17-valerate, 139 Carboxylic acid phase behavior, 283 Carboxymethylcellulose column chromatography alpha chain purification, 275 Carcinogenesis NDELA in cosmetics, 329 Carvone flavor release dentrifice abrasives, 305 Castor oil effect on water permeability, 107 Caustic reagent atomic absorption spectroscopy assay, 383 Cation exchange resin amine removal, 133 Cell count exfoliative effects, 53 percutaneous absorption, 275

SUBJECT INDEX 403 Ceraphyl GA lipid model skin surface, 225 Chamber test soap effect on skin attributes, 355 Chemical skin irritation method, 315 Chlorination effect on hair with cosmetic treatments, 93 Chlorine cosmetic treatments hair interaction, 93 Chloroform in two-phase titration, 69 reagent nitrosoalkanolamine determination, 133 Chondroitinase effects of propiobacterial enzyme on skin, 259 Chromatography carboxymethylcellulose column alpha chain purification, 275 gas (GLC) thin-layer (TLC), 69 headspace gas, 1 availability of dentrifice flavor oil, 305 high-pressure liquid (HPLC) analysis of cocamidopropylamine oxide, 69 Cleansing products forearm wash test mildness, 355 Cocamidopropylamine oxide in commercial products, 69 Coefficient of friction skin glycerin treatment, 367 Collagen content effect of retinyl palmitate, 235 penetration, 275 Collagen alpha chains penetration, 275 Collagen cyanogen bromide peptides penetration, 275 Color emulsion vehicles, 139 skin effect on soap cleansers, 355 protection against UV radiation, 347 Combing resistance hair structure, 27 Commercial products cocamidopropylamide oxide content, 69 Compliance human skin adhesion, 225 Composition bar soaps forearm wash test, 355 humectant flavor-binding ability of abrasives, 305 skin effect of retinyl palmitate, 235 stability of mesomorphic phases lipids and oils, 159 Compounds volatility hair and scalp, 1 Concentration active solutes water phase, 211 NDELA cosmetics, 329 silicones on hair, 383 topical application DHEA, 291 topical refinoids effect on comeocytes, 53 volatile compounds human hair, 1 Condensed phase volatile compounds, 1 Conditioning rinse ingredients (book review), 223 Conductivity solvent flow rate electrolytic conductivity detector optimization, 329 Confidence effects of cosmetic therapy, 43 Consistency determination hydrocortisone 17-valerate, 139 Contact angles liquid model skin surface, 225 Content amine oxide in commercial products, 69 Contour hair surface, 27 Corneocytes count dandruff scaling, 179 effects of topical retinoids, 53 size effects on permeability, 15 Corticosteroids in vivo vasoconstriction activity, 139 Cortisol reservoir formation in skin, 169 Cosmetics aging skin, 43 alkanolamines formulation aids, 133 composition amine oxide, 69 elegance oil/water emulsions, 139 emulsion penetration, 283 formulations Vitamin A, 235 nitrosamine screening, 329 phase properties lipids and oils, 159 preservatives reaction between dehydroacetic acid sodium salt and formaldehyde, 85 semisolids viscosity, 241 treatments on hair, 27 chlorination, 93 Cosmetic therapy aging skin, 43 Cosurfactant microemulsion preparation, 201 Cracking skin irritation visual evaluation, 315 Creams DHEA sebaceous gland stimulation, 291 NDELA concentration, 329 oil/water glycerin treatment, 367 with hydrocortisone 17-valerate vasoconstriction activity, 139 Crust effect of topical retinoids, 53 Cutaneous aging, 43 Cuticle cells hair surface, 27 Cuticular morphology chlorine-hair interaction, 93 Cyanogen bromide peptides penetration, 275 Cytology exfoliative human stratum corneum, 53 Cytosine residue carcinogenesis, 329 Damaged skin-model skin irritation, 315 Dandruff scaling, 179 Dehydroacefic acid sodium salt (DHA.Na) interaction with formaldehyde, 85 Dehydroepiandrosterone (DHEA) topical preparation, 291 Dentrifice flavor release effect of abrasives, 305 Deoxyhemoglobin skin absorption, 347