J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 39, 401-414 (November/December 1988) INDEX TO VOLUME 39 SUBJECT INDEX Abdomen stratum comeurn permeability, 15 Abrasives effect on flavor release from dentrifices, 305 Absorption corneocytes, 15 light eumelanin, 347 near infrared reflectance analysis (NIRA) process control of shampoo, 191 percutaneous hairless mouse skin, 275 NDELA, E reservoir formation in skin, 169 stratum comeurn, 15 silicones on hair calibration plot, 383 Acetate ester, 329 Acetic anhydride assay of NDELA derivatization, 329 N-oxide reactor, 69 Acetone dissolvant mixture exfoliafive cytology, 53 sebaceous gland stimulation, 291 reagent nitrosoalkanolamine determination, 133 Acetonitrile HPLC analysis, 139 Acetylethyl tetramethyl tetralin (AETT) reservoir formation in skin, 169 Acetylsalicylic acid reservoir formation in skin, 169 Acid 2-(alkoyloxy) 1-[(alkoyloxy)methyl]- ethyl-7-(4-heptyl-5,6)-dicarboxy-2- cyclohexene-1-yl)heptanoate penetration, 283 benzoic stratum comeurn, permeability, 15 13-cis-retinoic exposure to skin, 53 hyaluronic permeability on skin, 259 hydrochloric nitrosoalkanolamine determination, 133 phosphoric in HPLC, 85 reservoir formation in skin acetylsalicylic, benzoic, salicylic, fumaric and nicotinic, 169 stratum comeurn penetration, 283 Vitamin-A exposure to skin, 53 volatile compounds human hair, 1 Acne vulgaris effects of testosterone and anabolic steroids, 259 Adhesion model skin surface, 225 Adrenal steroid topical preparation dehydroepiandrosterone, 291 Adsorption cation exchange resin amine removal, 133 in vitro transepidermal water loss, 107 volatile compounds dynamic headspace sampling, 1 AETT test compounds reservoir formation in skin, 169 Age DHEA-sulfate production, 291 facial cutaneous changes, 43 skin topography, 367 stratum comeurn permeability, 15 Albumin assay agar plate preparation, 259 Alcohols volatile compounds human hair, 1 Aldehydes volatile compounds human hair, 1 Alkanes oil microemulsion preparation, 201 volatile compounds human hair, 1 Alkanolamines n-nitrosoalkanoamine determination, 133 Alkenes volatile compounds human hair, 1 2-(alkoyloxy) l-[(alkoyloxy)methyl]- ethyl-7-(4-heptyl-5,6)-dicarboxy-2- cyclohexene-l-yl)heptanoate stratum comeurn effect on penetration, 283 Alkyldimethylamine oxide cosuffactant microemulsion preparation, 201 Alkyl sodium sulfate surfactant microemulsion preparation, 201 Alpha collagen composition, 275 Amberlite ion exchange resin reagent nitrosoalkanolamine determination, 133 401

402 JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS Amine oxide content in commercial cocamidopropylamine oxide, 69 Ammonium hydroxide bleach treatment, 93 Ammonium sulphamate solution cosmetic sample cleanup, 329 Analysis atomic absorption spectroscopy silicones on hair, 383 headspace dentrifice abrasives and flavor release, 305 Anatomic site corneocyte size-skin permeability relationship, 15 Androgen dihydrotestosterone sebaceous gland growth, 291 effects on skin propionibacterial enzyme production, 259 5-androstene-31•-171•-diol sebaceous gland stimulation, 291 Androstanedione sebaceous gland stimulation, 291 Androsterone sebaceous gland stimulation, 291 Anionic detergents effect on human skin, 267 surfactant process control of shampoo, 191 Anisotropy optical discrimination of skin, 121 Appearance emulsion vehicles cosmetic acceptance evaluation, 139 Applications exfoliative cytology, 53 Aqueous phase microemulsion preparation, 201 octanol/water partition coefficient, 169 oil film integrity determination, 211 solution cocamidopropylamine oxide in commercial products, 69 glycerol treatment, 367 reaction of dehydroacetic acid and formaldehyde, 85 silicones on hair, 383 sodium lauryl ether sulfate, 179 Arm stratum comeurn permeability, 15 Arrhenius relationship, 107 Ascorbic acid labeled collagen preparation, 275 Aspirin test compound reservoir formation in skin, 169 Assay atomic absorption silicones on hair, 383 n-nitrosamines gas chromatography, 329 Atomic absorption spectroscopy silicones human hair, 383 Atrophy effect of retinoids, 235 Attractiveness use of cosmetics, 43 Autoradiography stratum comeurn penetration acid, 283 Bacteria growth on skin, 259 Bands combination near-infrared region, 191 Barrier properties horny layer stratum comeurn, 15 Benzoic acid permeability stratum corneum, 15 reservoir formation in skin, 169 Benzyl alcohol contact angles model skin surface, 225 process control of shampoo, 191 Beta aminopropionitrile fumarate labeled collagen preparation, 275 Binding flavor dentrifice abrasives, 305 protein bovine serum albumin, 169 siloxanes human hair, 383 Biochemical effects of Vitamin A, 235 Biorhythm surface profile of hair, 27 Bleach hair combined with chlorination, 93 cosmetic treatment, 27 Blonde hair cosmetic treatment, 27 effect of chlorination, 93 Bovine serum albumin (BSA) protein binding, 169 with anionic detergents effect on hydroxide ion formation, 267 Brain heart infusion agar preparation of tributyrin agar plates, 259 Bromonitropropandiol derivatives reaction with dehydroacetic acid sodium salt, 85 Brown hair cosmetic treatment, 27 effect of chlorination, 93 Buffer acetonitrile/phosphate in HPLC, 85 phosphate hydrocortisone 17-valerate, 139 stability of multiple emulsions, 211 sodium phosphate protein binding, 169 triton-X 100 phosphate, 179 Caffeine reservoir formation in skin, 169 Calcium chloride transepidermal water loss, 107 Calf serum collagen sample maintenance, 275 Calibration instrument sample analysis, 383 standards stock solutions, 329 Carbopol thickening agent hydrocortisone 17-valerate, 139 Carboxylic acid phase behavior, 283 Carboxymethylcellulose column chromatography alpha chain purification, 275 Carcinogenesis NDELA in cosmetics, 329 Carvone flavor release dentrifice abrasives, 305 Castor oil effect on water permeability, 107 Caustic reagent atomic absorption spectroscopy assay, 383 Cation exchange resin amine removal, 133 Cell count exfoliative effects, 53 percutaneous absorption, 275