SUBJECT INDEX 409 Methyl ethyl ketone (MEK) extraction NDELA sample, 329 Methyl iodide amine group blocker, 69 Methyl isobutylketone (MIBK) sample preparation silicone on hair, 383 Methyl orange in two-phase titration, 69 Methyl red Ln methanol nitrosoalkanolamine determination, 133 Methyltestosterone effect on bacteria growth, 259 Mice skin effect of retinyl palmitate, 235 penetration, 275 Micelies n-nitrosamine formation, 329 Microemulsions preparation of, 201 Microscopy characterization encapsulated water phase, 211 Mineral oil contact angles model skin surface, 225 effect on water permeability, 107 emulsion composition, 283 emulsion vehicles and vasoconstrictor activity, 139 multiple emulsions stability, 211 Mixtures standard preservative reaction of dehydroacetic acid and formaldehyde, 85 Moisturizers efficacy of, 107 Mold preservative mixtures, 85 Mooney equation viscosity measurement, 211 5-MOP test compound reservoir formation in skin, 169 8-MOP test compound reservoir formation in skin, 169 Morphology corneocytes exfoliative cytology, 53 hair chlorination effects, 93 skin effect of Vitamin A, 235 Motretinid exfoliative cytology exposure to human skin, 53 NaC! labeled alpha chain purification, 275 Nadrolone effect on bacteria vulgaris, 259 Native co!!agen penetration mouse skin, 275 Near-infrared reflectance analysis shampoo process control, 191 N-hexyl alcohol conductivity solvent assay of NDELA, 329 Nicotinamide test compound reservoir formation in skin, 169 Nicotinic acid reservoir formation in skin, 169 Nitrogen histological evaluation of skin, 235 in titanometric titration, 69 reagent nitrosoalkanolamine determination, 133 N-methyI-N-trimethylsilylheptafiuorobutyr- amide (MSHFBA) reagent nitrosoalkanolamine determination, 133 N-nitrosamines (NDELA) quantitative assay gas chromatography, 329 N-nitrosoalkanolamines in alkanolamines, 133 N-nitrosodiethanolamine assay creams/ lotions, 329 Non-ionic emulsifiers, 139 Occlusive agents oils effect on TEWL rate, 107 Occlusivity effect of phase-volume ratio in formulas, 139 Octanol emulsion vehicles and vasoconstrictor activity, 139 solubility reservoir formation in skin, 169 Octanol/water partition coefficient (o/w k) reservoir formation in skin, 169 Odor emulsion vehicles cosmetic acceptance evaluation, 139 Oil dentrifice flavor, 305 ffim integrity, 211 mineral hydrocortisone 17-valerate o/w emulsions, 139 phase properties 159 cosmetic formulation, 235 preparation of microemulsions, 201 skin moisturizers mineral castor and sesame, 107 Optical discrimination, 121 Optical microscopy human hair surface structure, 27 Organic solvent silicones on hair, 383 Organosiloxane enzyme digestion of hair samples liquid-liquid extraction, 383 O/W emulsion systems occlusivity, 139 Oxidation dyeing chlorine-hair interaction, 93 skin surface lipids, 1 structure-activity relationship metabolic activation, 329 Oxyhemoglobin skin absorption, 347 Overtones near infrared region composition, 191 Pain skin irritation new model, 315 Papain enzyme silicone on hair, 383 Parakeratotic index nucleated cell measurement dandruff scaling, 179 Partition coefficients octanol-water, 169 Paste humectant systems dentrifice abrasives and flavor release, 305 Patch test skin cleansers mildness, 355 Peak density profilometry of hair, 27 Peel force measurements model skin surface, 225 PEG 1500 isotropicity, 241 Penetration hairless mouse skin native collagen, collagen alpha chains, and collagen cyanogen

410 JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS bromide peptides, 265 human stratum corneum 2-(alkoyloxy)- 1- [(alkoyloxy)methyl]-ethyl-7-(4-heptyl-5,6)- dicarboxy-2-cyclohexene- 1-yl) heptanoate, 283 Penicillin assay agar plate preparation, 259 collagen sample maintenance, 275 Perception consumer evaluations skin irritation, 315 human taste dentrifice, 305 Percutaneous absorption mouse skin, 275 NDELA, E reservoir formation, 169 stratum corneum, 15 Permanent waving chlorine-hair interaction, 93 Permeability skin moisturizing agents, 107 relationship with corneocyte size, 15 vasoconstrictor activity, 139 stratum comeurn, 267 Permed hair effect of chlorination, 93 Personality effect of make-up, 43 Petrolatum isotropicity, 241 o/w emulsion systems occlusivity, 139 pH aqueous phase, 211 bleach treatment, 93 brine solution, 201 effect of anionic detergents, 267 hair swelling behavior, 27 hydrocortisone 17-valerate cream, 139 labeled alpha chain purification, 275 Triton-X 100 phosphate buffer, 179 Pharmaceutical semisolids viscosity, 241 Phase behavior carboxylic acid, 283 Phase properties lipids and oils, 159 volume ratio multiple emulsions, 211 Phase-volume ratio vasoconstrictor activity, 139 Phosphate buffer corneocyte counts, 179 stability of multiple emulsions, 211 Phosphoric reagent atomic absorption spectroscopy assay, 383 Phosphoric acid in HPLC, 85 Photography polarized optical discrimination of skin, 121 Photoprotection human melanin ultraviolet, 347 Physical effects glycerol human skin, 367 Physical properties human hair fibers, 93 model skin surface, 225 of corneocytes, 53 oil film integrity, 211 shampoo, 191 stability hydrocortisone 17-valerate, 139 Pigment skin UUB absorption, 347 Polar force human skin model surface, 225 Polarity of emollient effect on TEWL, 107 Polarized illumination system 121 Polyethylene glycol viscosity measurement normal stress, 241 Polymers organosiloxane silicone in hair, 383 Polyporphyre dye marker oil film integrity, 211 Polysorbate 80 surfactant stability of multiple emulsions, 211 Polytartrazine aqueous phase stability of multiple emulsions, 211 Porcine model skin surface formulation, 225 Post auricular stratum corneum permeability, 15 Potassium sulfate emulsion vehicles and vasoconstfictor activity, 139 Potassium thiocyanate oil film integrity ion release, 211 Potentiometric titration cocamidopropylamine oxide content, 69 Pregnenolone sebaceous glands stimulation, 291 Preparation microemulsions order of mixing, 201 topical adrenal steroid, 291 Preservatives in cosmetics, 85 sorbic acid in hydrocortisone 17-valerate, 139 Process control shampoo near infrared reflectance analysis, 191 Profile length profilometry of hair, 27 Prof'dometry hair fiber surface, 27 Properties of corneocytes effects of topical retinoids, 53 of hair, 93 Propionibacterium acnes effect of testosterone and anabolic steroids, 259 Propylene glycol dissolvant exposure to human skin, 53 in hydrocortisone 17-valerate cream, 139 reservoir formation in skin, 169 Protein binding bovine serum albumin, 169 collagen, 275 model skin surface, 225 skin surface effect of retinyl palmirate, 235 Protein/!ipid ratio model skin surface, 225 Psychological cosmetic therapy for elderly, 43 Psychophysics model for skin irritation, 315 Pyridine dilutant NDELA assay, 329 Qualitative parameters of stratum comeurn, 53 sample plug height variation viscosity of semisolids, 241 topical administration NDELA, 329