SUBJECT INDEX 413 Surface morphology hair effect of chlorination, 93 Surface topography optical discrimination of skin, 121 Surfac•nt anionic analysis of cocamidopropylamine oxide, 69 process control of shampoo, 191 concentration aqueous phases, 211 electrode anionic measurement, 191 ethylene glycol, 15 irritancy human skin, 267 microemulsion preparation, 201 non-ionic emulsifier, 139 synthetic bar soap composition, 355 Swelling hair fibers aqueous media, 27 stratum corneum, 267 Synchrotron x-radiation phase properties of lipids, 159 Tactile skin evaluation, 355 Tallow/coconut ratio soap bar composition mildness, 355 Taste perception dentrifice, 305 Techniques equilibrium lipid phase properties, 159 exfoliative cytology, 53 shampoo influence in vivo and in vitro, 27 silicone elastomer replication model skin surface, 225 Temperature effect on commercial amine oxide solids content, 69 percutaneous absorption collagen, 275 preparation of microemulsions, 201 transepidermal water loss, 107 stability of mesomorphic phases lipids and oils, 159 Temperature gradient method phase properties of lipids, 159 Tensility hair effect of chlorination, 93 Tension surface, model skin, 225 Testosterone effect on development of acne vulgaris, 259 on enzyme production, 259 reservoir formaion in skin, 169 Tetrahydrofuran (THF) marker determination stability of multiple emulsions, 211 Tetramethylguanidine reagent atomic absorption spectroscopy assay, 383 Texture emulsion vehicles cosmetic acceptance evaluation, 139 Therapy cosmetic for facial problems, 43 Thermal energy analyzer (TEA) NDELA concentration cosmetics, 329 Thermodynamic activity hydrocortisone 17-valerate, 139 Thermodynamic properties microemulsions, 201 Thickening agent carbopol in hydrocortisone 17-valerate, 139 Thickness comeocyte exfoliative cytology, 53 skin effect of retinyl palmitate, 235 Thioglycolate waving lotion, 93 TiC!s titrant analysis of cocamidopropylamine oxide, 69 Time function of oil film integrity determination, 211 penetration radioactive-labeled alpha 1 chain, 275 stimulation of sebaceous glands topical applications, 291 transepidermal water loss, 197 Tissue skin effect of retinyl palmitate, 235 Titanometric titration with two-phase titration cocamidopropylamine oxide content, 69 Tolerance skin effects of topical retinoids, 53 Topical corticosteroids occlusivity, 139 preparations dehydroepiandrosterone, 291 retinoids effects on human skin, 53 retinyl palmitate skin position and morphometry, 235 Topography skin model surface, 225 skin surface measurement, 367 Touch skin irritation new model, 315 Toxicity preservative mixture in cosmetics, 85 Training set shampoo NIR spectroscopy, 191 Transepidermal water loss (TEWL) forearm wash test mildness, 355 glycerin treatment skin, 367 in vitro method, 107 stratum corneum, 15 vasoconstrictor activity, 139 Transmission spectroscopy optical discrimination of skin, 121 Tretinoin exposure to skin exfoliative effects, 53 Triamcinolone acetonide reservoir formation in skin, 169 Tributyrin agar plates, 259 Triethanolamine systems NDELA formation, 329 Triglyceride structure, 283 Trimethylsilyl ester, 329 Tris-Hcl labeled alpha chain purification, 275 Triton-X 100 phosphate buffer comeocyte counts, 179 Tukey's Honestly Significant Difference Test (HSD) emulsion vehicles cosmetic acceptance evaluation, 139

414 JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS Tween emulsion composition, 283 Two phase titration analysis of cocamidopropylamine oxide, 69 Ultraviolet radiation effect of retinyl palmitate skin, 235 photoprotection melanin, 347 Ultraviolet spectrophotometric detection trace level analysis NDELA, 329 Urea reservoir formation in skin, 169 UUB absorption eumelanin, 347 Vasoconstrictor emulsions effect of phase- volume ratio, 139 Viscosity dimethicones, 383 emulsion vehicles, 139 pharmaceutical and cosmetic semisolids, 241 phase-volume ratio, 211 Visual efficacy of skin treatment, 367 skin evaluation, 121 315 355 Vitamin A skin development, 235 Vitiligo skin absorption, 347 Volatility compounds hair, 1 scalp, 1 determination hydrocortisone 17-valerate, 139 emulsion vehicles, 139 n-nitrosoamines quantitative assay, 329 Washability emulsion vehicles cosmetic acceptance evaluation, 139 Wash test forearm mildness, 355 Water amount flavor binding of abrasives, 305 dilutant siloxane emulsion, 383 distilled topical application on skin, 367 emulsion composition, 283 hydrocortisone 17-valerate o/w emulsions, 139 flux diffusion coefficient, 211 model skin surface, 225 permeability stratum corneum, 15 phase emulsion systems, 235 shampoo analysis Karl Fischer titration, 191 solubility reservoir formation in skin, 169 tritium-labeled transepidermal loss, 107 Water-in-oil-in-water emulsions (WOW), 211 Wavelength absorption melanin, 347 silicon sample analysis, 383 Waviness hair surface, 27 Weight emulsion preparation, 211 hair effect of chlorination, 93 molecular reaction of dehydroacetic acid sodium salt and formaldehyde, 85 single cells vs. combined scales, 179 Wettability human skin, 225 Women sebum excretion rate, 291 X-ray analysis reaction of dehydroacetic acid and formaldehyde, 85 X-ray diffraction phase properties of lipids, 159