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j. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 42, 273-282 (July/August 1991) Hair coloring and waving using oxidases YOSHIO TSUJINO, YOSHIHARU YOKOO, and KUNIAKI SAKATO, Yamahatsu Sangyo Kaisha Ltd., 2-16-26 Senbonminami, Nishinari-ku, Osaka 557, Japan (Y. T. ), Tokyo Research Laboratories, Kyowa Hakko Kogyo Co., Ltd., 3-3-6 Asahi-cho, Machida City, Tokyo 194 (Y. Y.), and Research & Development Center, Kyowa Kogyo Co. Ltd., 1-6-10htemachi, Chiyoda-ku, Tokyo 1 O0 (K.S. ), Japan. Received January 4, 1991. Synopsis For hair coloring and waving, biochemical oxidation using enzymes such as uricase, glucose oxidase, galactose oxidase, laccase, and tyrosinase was investigated in commercial formulations instead of the usual chemical oxidations. Coloring of goat hair was satisfactorily accomplished in the aromatic amine precursor system using uricase and glucose oxidase. While galactose oxidase and tyrosinase showed a slight coloring, laccase did not lead to any coloring. Enzymatic hair waving was evaluated according to the Kirby method. The results of waviffg efficiency and wave retention ratio showed that the waving effect with uricase neutralization is almost equal to that with sodium bromide. INTRODUCTION To date hair coloring has been accomplished by the oxidative polymerization of mono- mer dyes in hair fibers (1). Commercial hair dyes essentially consist of dye precursors, couplers (modifiers), and oxidizing agents. Listed dye intermediates are phenylenedi- amine, aminophenol, and so forth. In general, oxidative hair dyes are classified into the following types: (1) One-package type: This represents the powder or creamy type of product in which oxidative dyes and oxidizing agent exist together. This type of hair dye agent comes into general use with water or a shampoo base. (2) Two-package type: In this case oxidative dye (dye solution) and oxidizing agent (developer) exist separately. In the dyeing treatment, both agents have to be mixed to color hair. This type of dyeing is evidently inconvenient because of troublesome mixing and possible skin and hair damage by oxidation. On the other hand, ordinary permanent waving needs the cleavage of disulfide linkages in hair by thioglycolic acid, cysteine, and other reducing agents, and the reformation of disulfide bridges by oxidizing agents such as sodium bromide, sodium perborate, or hydrogen peroxide (2). 273
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