DRUGS IN COSMETICS--SHOULD THEY MIX? 317 We believe that inclusion of antibiotics in these products should be approached with great caution. Cosmetics are used much more extensively, and by an entire regimen of dosage different from drug usage. Repeated application may produce serious sensitization to an antibiotic, and a sensitized person may have to be denied use of a lif•-saving drug in event of need in future drug therapy. There is also the potential danger in the indiscriminate use of antibiotics in cosmetics leading to the development of resistant strains of organisms. Hence this type of product is likely to fall in the "new drug" category for which applications establishing safety are required. MERCURY Mercury compounds have been used in cosmetics since antiquity. However, they cannot be regarded as innocuous. Actually, mercury and its compounds are extremely toxic. There is little or no margin of safety between effective and toxic levels. Sensitization to mercury compounds is not uncommon. The principal application of mercury is in the form of ammoniated mercury used in bleaching creams. The action of mercury is to arrest' DOPA, an enzyme, dihydroxy-phenyl alanine, which is essential in the process of conversion of tyrosine to melanine in the skin. We have regarded such articles in the category of drugs for self-medication that should conform to the following restrictions: 1. Ammoniated mercury preparations should not exceed 5 per cent concentration. 2. Mercuric bichloride and other mercurials must not exceed 0.2 per cent concentration. 3. "Use" to be immediately discontinued if irritation develops. 4. Not to be used on damaged skin, such as shaving "nicks" or after a depilatory. 5. There should be a preliminary test for sensitization to mercury. 6. Preparations are not to be used on children below twelve years of age. Mercury preservatives such as phenyl mercuric acetate and mercury nitrate are not present in sufficient concentration to cause concern, but may produce sensitization. ß ANTISEPTICS This represents a large class of chemicals of which the more common are: 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. Hexachlorophene and dichlorophene. Bithionol. TMTD, tetramethylthiuram disulfide, salicyl anilide and others. Resorcinol and hexylresorcinol. A large group of cationic surfactants.

318 JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS The chlorinated phenols generally are skin irritants. Most of these if used at a sufficiently low concentration are tolerated by the general population. "Skin fatigue" is a common phenomenon in their use. Cationic surfactants which are ever increasing in popularity are also damaging to the skin and especially to the mucous membrane of the eye. There is no particular objection to their use in cosmetics provided the limits of tolerance have been carefully determined by proper pretesting. The other groups listed appear not to present any particular hazard that we are aware of at this time. Where antiseptic claims are made the prod- ucts are drugs, and may be "new drugs." ROYAL JELLY Some fantastic claims, wholly unsubstantiated, have been made for this product. Royal jelly is claimed to improve beauty and nerves, produce youthfulness and well-being as a skin food, rejuvenate worn-out glands and so on. A chemical analysis of royal jelly reveals that the amounts and proportion of sugars, protein, ]ipids, and moisture, are not unlike the con- stituents of evaporated cow's milk. A review of the literature fails to reveal any serious pharmacological study to support the many allusions to the possible beneficial effect of royal jelly in humans. ORAL COSMETICS 8-Methoxypsoralen, also known as 8-MOP, oxsoralen, meloxine and methoxysalene, is a drug advocated for potentiating suntanning and sun tolerance. To administer a substance by mouth to produce a cosmetic effect is a major medical procedure and one fraught with dangers of pro- ducing systemic effects. Much remains to be elucidated regarding the mechanism of action of 8-MOP. Likewise, little is known of its potential toxic effects. In practice only one person in seven obtains satisfactory pigmentation. In many cases pigmentation is not permanent, requiring further administration of the drug. Dosages are a delicate question, since it is relatively easy to overdose, so that on future exposure to UV light or sunlight erythema, edema, pain and even blistering may result. The effect of the drug in patients with liver or gastro-intestinal diseases is not known. It is also not known what the consequence might be if more than a normal tan develops. Effects on senile skin are not known, that is, whether normal senile changes in the skin are delayed or acceler- ated. SEVERELY Toxic DRUGS Compounds of such poisonous heavy metals as selenium, silver, lead, cadmium and arsenic have been proposed for use in shampoos and hair preparations. Although the intact skin is a good barrier to absorption of