HAIR COLORING MODERN FORMULATION CONSIDERATIONS 291 (17) Fosdick, L. S., Science, 52, 9 (1956). (18) Sulser, G. F., Fosket, R. R., and Fosdick, L. S., 5 t. vim. Dentalzlssoc., 56, 368 (1958). (19) Zipkin, I., and McClure, F. J., •t. Dental Research, 34, 768 (1955). (20) Stephan, R. M., Fitzgerald, R. J., McClure, F. J., Harris, M. R., and Jordan, H., Ibid., 31, 421 (1952). (21) Zander, H. A., 7. •lrn. Dental •lssoc., 40, 569 (1950). (22) Knutsen, J. W., and Armstrong, W. D., Pub. Health Report, 58, 1701 (1943). (23) Dean, H. T., Jay, P., Arnold, E. A., McClure, F. J., and Elrone, E., Ibid., 56, 761 (1941). HAIR COLORING--MODERN FORMULATION CONSIDERATIONS By ROBERT L. GOLDEMBER( * Presented November 20, 1958, New York City IT •s S:XID that the ancient Chinese dyed their hair in a very ingenious manner. They drank certain well-known mineral waters for a period of time and then painted their hair with nutgall extract. The pyrogallol in the nutgalls reacted with their hair to produce a lovely permanent dark brown or black. It is amazing that no modern formulatot has thought to do the same. If he sold a pill containing iron salts and other appropriate minerals to be in- gested, his customer's body would obligingly excrete this foreign material through her hair and nails via the cysteine detoxification mechanism. Once in the hair, these salts act as perfect built-in mordants for such vegetable dyes as logwood, juglone, lawsone and pyrogallol. Think of the uproar such a product would cause at the Food and Drug Administration. Al- though it would not require the caution label, it might require a New Drug Application! In more recent times, we find that the use of various permanent colorants are covered at considerable (and often repetitive) length in the literature. These include the oxidation dyes--often broadly referred to as para dyes-- the natural extracts such as henna, and the metallic or progressive dyes. There have been relatively few references to temporary coloring of human hair until recently. In view of the exceptional market potential of such products for the grow- ing home-use market, it would seem profitable to examine the new con- cept--the full-intensity rinse--both from the marketing and formulating viewpoints. We shall soon see that many of the classic concepts of both viewpoints are deliberately being violated as the search for new markets, * Shulton, Inc., Clifton, N.J.

HAIR COLORING MODERN FORMULATION CONSIDERATIONS 291 (17) Fosdick, L. S., Science, 52, 9 (1956). (18) Sulser, G. F., Fosket, R. R., and Fosdick, L. S., 5 t. vim. Dentalzlssoc., 56, 368 (1958). (19) Zipkin, I., and McClure, F. J., •t. Dental Research, 34, 768 (1955). (20) Stephan, R. M., Fitzgerald, R. J., McClure, F. J., Harris, M. R., and Jordan, H., Ibid., 31, 421 (1952). (21) Zander, H. A., 7. •lrn. Dental •lssoc., 40, 569 (1950). (22) Knutsen, J. W., and Armstrong, W. D., Pub. Health Report, 58, 1701 (1943). (23) Dean, H. T., Jay, P., Arnold, E. A., McClure, F. J., and Elrone, E., Ibid., 56, 761 (1941). HAIR COLORING--MODERN FORMULATION CONSIDERATIONS By ROBERT L. GOLDEMBER( * Presented November 20, 1958, New York City IT •s S:XID that the ancient Chinese dyed their hair in a very ingenious manner. They drank certain well-known mineral waters for a period of time and then painted their hair with nutgall extract. The pyrogallol in the nutgalls reacted with their hair to produce a lovely permanent dark brown or black. It is amazing that no modern formulatot has thought to do the same. If he sold a pill containing iron salts and other appropriate minerals to be in- gested, his customer's body would obligingly excrete this foreign material through her hair and nails via the cysteine detoxification mechanism. Once in the hair, these salts act as perfect built-in mordants for such vegetable dyes as logwood, juglone, lawsone and pyrogallol. Think of the uproar such a product would cause at the Food and Drug Administration. Al- though it would not require the caution label, it might require a New Drug Application! In more recent times, we find that the use of various permanent colorants are covered at considerable (and often repetitive) length in the literature. These include the oxidation dyes--often broadly referred to as para dyes-- the natural extracts such as henna, and the metallic or progressive dyes. There have been relatively few references to temporary coloring of human hair until recently. In view of the exceptional market potential of such products for the grow- ing home-use market, it would seem profitable to examine the new con- cept--the full-intensity rinse--both from the marketing and formulating viewpoints. We shall soon see that many of the classic concepts of both viewpoints are deliberately being violated as the search for new markets, * Shulton, Inc., Clifton, N.J.