WATER ON TROUBLED SKINS OIL ON TROUBLED WATERS 363 'cosmeticJan,' instead of the shorter and much more accurate 'chemist'... "The chemists in the cosmetic industry have welcomed the interest of dermatologists and have often gone out of their way to invite this interest. Two-sided cooperation is called for, however, not intolerable condescension from one direction, so that both may profit financially and otherwise." Now as you know, I am neither a dermatologist nor a cosmetic chemist, so, hopefully, I can look at this statement through neutral eyes. It is true that I have been more closely associated with dermatologists than with the cosmetic chemists. Nevertheless, I have had a good deal of contact with the cosmetic chemists and have attended a number of meetings where the scientific personnel of the cosmetic industry has been addressed by a derma- tologist. So I believe I know what the writer of this note meant. I, too have been conscious of the attitude shown by some dermatologists. When the writer of this note condemned "the dermatologists," he certainly meant "some dermatologists." Recognition of the existence of an uneasy relationship between derma- tologists and cosmetic chemists calls for an attempt to determine why relations are strained, in the hope that by doing so some improvement will result. I would like to explore with you the proposition that the tension results primarily from inadequate communication between dermatologist and cosmetic chemist and to propose the thesis that the "oil" which will help to quiet these troubled waters of communication is the body of sound, scientific facts which you, the cosmetic chemists, are constantly enlarging. As you recognize, I am using the word communication in its broadest sense. I am not implying that the dermatologist and the cosmetic chemist have difficulty in understanding each other's words. Communication is most successful when the individuals who are attempting to communicate with each other show a friendly attitude. Satisfactory communication is possible only in an atmosphere of mutual and sympathetic understanding. Adequate communication can occur only when there is a willingness to listen. When there is a willingness to listen, ideas may be exchanged when there is no willingness to listen, conversation lags or degenerates into heated argument. I will carry this proposition one step further willingness to listen increases as one's sense of security increases. Now let us get back to the tensions which are sometimes manifest when dermatologists and cosmetic chemists are together. Is there mutual and sympathetic understanding between these groups? Is each group willing to listen to the other? If my analysis of the situation is correct, it is possible that each group feels uncomfortable in the presence of the other. Why should this be so? I suspect that one of the major reasons for this feeling is that some members of each group are not adequately informed about the principles of the other's disciplines. The dermatologist is not adequately informed about the principles of cosmetic formulation not

364 JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS enough is known about the action of cosmetics on the skin. Dermatologists and cosmetic chemists alike require more information about the basic bio- chemistry and physiology of the skin--that part of the human body on which all cosmetics are placed. It is certainly too bad that these strained relations exist between dermatologist and cosmetic chemist. In spite of our lack of knowledge, there are still many areas in which each group has skills and knowledge that the other group lacks so that everyone concerned should be able to talk comfortably across a conference table and exchange valuable ideas. Progress can be most rapid when there is unshackled exchange of ideas. Perhaps we should consider some other areas of communication which some members of your group have indicated are troubled--possibly not so badly in 1959 as in 1949, but troubled nevertheless. In addition to com- munication between dermatologist and cosmetic chemist, there is (1) communication between cosmetic chemist and cosmetic chemist (2) com- munication between cosmetic chemist and management (3) communica- tion between cosmetic chemist and advertising copywriter. Hesitancy in communication between cosmetic chemists seems to result from the fact that they are employed in an industry which is so competitive. I recognize that some areas of their work cannot be openly and freely dis- cussed, but other areas would surely benefit from free and open discussion. I recognize that a Mr. Avon cannot sit at a cocktail bar with a Mr. Revlon and openly discuss his next year's plans for a new moisturizing cream with which to win the interest of the buying public. I would expect that there are many aspects of applied research which cannot be freely discussed, but most of the results of basic research are everybody's business. I suspect that as a rule the discovery of a basic fact by itself rarely results in much financial profit to a company. It is not until that basic fact has been applied that profit results. May I give you an example? Had one of you made the observation that the cornified epitheluim is rendered flexible by water but not by oils or fats, and had this specific observation been kept secret, it would not have made any money for your company until the basic fact had been used in the formulation of a product which would increase the amount of water in the cornified epithelium. Only then would the knowl- edge of this basic fact result in a product which could enter the competitive market and bring financial profits to your company. I would certainly expect the chemist to keep secret the composition of that product, perhaps even patent it if it was a novel formulation. Is it correct that one of your committees, which is working on an analyti- cal method, has run into difficulty because the members of that committee have been unwilling to discuss freely among themselves the work they are doing in the development of a method? Sound methodology is the basis of all good research it must not be kept secret.