364 JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS enough is known about the action of cosmetics on the skin. Dermatologists and cosmetic chemists alike require more information about the basic bio- chemistry and physiology of the skin--that part of the human body on which all cosmetics are placed. It is certainly too bad that these strained relations exist between dermatologist and cosmetic chemist. In spite of our lack of knowledge, there are still many areas in which each group has skills and knowledge that the other group lacks so that everyone concerned should be able to talk comfortably across a conference table and exchange valuable ideas. Progress can be most rapid when there is unshackled exchange of ideas. Perhaps we should consider some other areas of communication which some members of your group have indicated are troubled--possibly not so badly in 1959 as in 1949, but troubled nevertheless. In addition to com- munication between dermatologist and cosmetic chemist, there is (1) communication between cosmetic chemist and cosmetic chemist (2) com- munication between cosmetic chemist and management (3) communica- tion between cosmetic chemist and advertising copywriter. Hesitancy in communication between cosmetic chemists seems to result from the fact that they are employed in an industry which is so competitive. I recognize that some areas of their work cannot be openly and freely dis- cussed, but other areas would surely benefit from free and open discussion. I recognize that a Mr. Avon cannot sit at a cocktail bar with a Mr. Revlon and openly discuss his next year's plans for a new moisturizing cream with which to win the interest of the buying public. I would expect that there are many aspects of applied research which cannot be freely discussed, but most of the results of basic research are everybody's business. I suspect that as a rule the discovery of a basic fact by itself rarely results in much financial profit to a company. It is not until that basic fact has been applied that profit results. May I give you an example? Had one of you made the observation that the cornified epitheluim is rendered flexible by water but not by oils or fats, and had this specific observation been kept secret, it would not have made any money for your company until the basic fact had been used in the formulation of a product which would increase the amount of water in the cornified epithelium. Only then would the knowl- edge of this basic fact result in a product which could enter the competitive market and bring financial profits to your company. I would certainly expect the chemist to keep secret the composition of that product, perhaps even patent it if it was a novel formulation. Is it correct that one of your committees, which is working on an analyti- cal method, has run into difficulty because the members of that committee have been unwilling to discuss freely among themselves the work they are doing in the development of a method? Sound methodology is the basis of all good research it must not be kept secret.

WATER ON TROUBLED SKINS--OIL ON TROUBLED WATERS 365 Possibly one reason why the cosmetic chemists have in the past refrained from such discussions among themselves is that they have been under the impression that management discourages such freedom of intellectual intercourse. I hope that I am correct in thinking that management has relaxed some of its restrictions in recent years, and that, on the scientific level, communication can now be more free. This brings us to the third area of communication--that between cosmetic chemists and management. Here I feel insecure, since I have had no opportunity to observe this area of communication first hand. But somehow or other, I have sensed that in this relationship many cosmetic chemists have been a bit reticent. The cosmetic industry has built up its foundation of scientific facts in order to be in a position to supply prod- ucts which do more than simply mask a few cutaneous blemishes. The cosmetic chemist knows these facts. Management depends upon him to supply them. Management should certainly be willing to listen to the chemist, and he, in turn, should be equally willing to listen to management. As with the cosmetic chemist and the dermatologist, each group can con- tribute to the other's fund of information. And now, finally, what about communication between the cosmetic chemist and the advertising copywriter? I am sure that some of the things which have been said in cosmetic advertising have not been communicated to the copywriter by any of you. In this relationship, it is very important to attempt to establish a sympathetic and mutual understanding of each other's goals. The goal of the advertising copywriter is to sell the com- pany's products. The cosmetic chemist can help him. He can supply the facts from which the copy can be written. He can work with the copy- writer. He can help him. The copywriter must not be led to feel that he is being harnessed by the chemist. Each must listen to the other. The necessity for adequate communication is, of course, not limited to these four groups of people. It is of universal importance: father to child, student to teacher, saint to sinner, technician to investigator, Democrat to Republican, vice-president to labor-organizer, Eisenhower to Khrushchev, person to person. It must now be apparent why I have said that the oil which will help to quiet the cosmetic chemists' troubled seas of communication is the ever enlarging body of sound basic facts. As one's factual knowledge increases, one becomes more secure. As one feels more secure, one is more willing to listen. The more willing one is to listen, the easier it becomes to exchange ideas in an atmosphere of sympathetic understanding of each other's needs and goals. This award, which you, the cosmetic chemists, have established, rec- ognizes the importance of enlarging this body of sound basic facts. It stimulates research which will result in more rapid accumulation of these