JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS 3500 chemists in fifteen countries, all dedicated to the advance of cos- metic science and the development of more effective, safe cosmetics. I have greatly enjoyed my participation in the affairs of both the national and international cosmetic societies. It has provided me with a rare opportunity to meet and work with chemists from every country and to establish lasting friendships with many of them. I am indeed grateful to the Society for making this possible. Although this Medal is prized as an Award for past accomplishments, I choose to consider it an incentive to continue and a reminder that there is still much to do toward the development of new chemicals, the educa- tion of the chemist, and international cooperation among cosmetic chemists. I pledge myself to those efforts. In closing I wish to express my deep appreciation to my friends and associates at American Cholesterol Products without whose unfailing support I would not be on this dais today, and to my wife, whose con- stant love, understanding, and encouragement made my work possible.
J. Soc. Cosmetic Chemists, 20, 81-101 (Feb. 5, 1969) Some Observations on Dandruff A. BERNARD ACKERMAN, M.D.,* and ALBERT M. KLIGMAN, M.D., Ph.D.t Presented December 6, 1967, New York City Synopsis--Dandruff and nondandruff subjects were compared with regard to a number of variables. Histologically, the major differences between the dandruff and nondandruff speci- mens were in the horny layer. Normally, the scalp horny layer consists of 25-35 fully kera- tinized, closely coherent cells arranged in an orderly pattern. In dandruff, the intact horny layer usually has fewer than 10 cells, parakeratotic cells are common, and the pattern is dis- ordered. Unlike the nondandruff horny layer, crevices occur deep within the dandruff stra- tum corncure, resulting in "cracking up" into large flakes. The permeability of the dan- druff horny layer is increased. This reflects not only the reduced number of coherent cells which can function as a barrier, but increased porosity derived from the "cracking up" of the horny layer. The composition of the microflora is the same in dandruff as in nondandruff, consisting principally of Staphylococcus epidermidis, Corynebacterium aches and Pityrosporon species. However, there is a great numerical increase in the aerobic and fungal flora of dan- druff, roughly proportional to the quantity of scaling. Certain antibacterial and antifungal agents effected a great decrease in the microflora without eliminating dandruff. Various methods of studying epiderxnal kinetics indicate that the epidermal turnover time is de- creased in dandruff, i.e., epidermopoiesis is accelerated. It is proposed that dandruff represents a basic change in the rate regulating mechanisms of cornification. Accelerated epidermopoiesis leads to imperfect keratinization and faulty "cracking up" of the horny layer. INTRODUCTION There is no want of work or writing in the field of dandruff. Un- fortunately, the former has been almost exclusively preoccupied with therapy and the latter with generalities derived from common experience. A rank overgrowth of speculations crowds out any clear idea of the na- ture of the process and its pathophysiology. * Department of Dermatology, Harvard Medical School, Massachusetts General Hospital, Boston, Mass. Reprint requests should be addressed to this author. t Department of Dermatology, University of Pennsylvania, School of Medicine, Phil- adelphia, Pa. 19104. 81
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