QUATERNARY SURFACTANTS ON HAIR 151 SUMMARY Increase in sorption may be brought about by changes in pH, tem- perature, counterions, cationic chain length, and hair-to-solution ratio, and by damage to the fibers. Because the amount of cationic surfactant held at the hair surface is important, the sorption increases are con- sidered in terms of changes in affinity and changes in penetration rate. ACKNOWLEDGMENT Appreciation is expressed to Mr. D. McNeil for expert handling of the microscopical work and to Mrs. W. Bartok for care in obtaining much of the experimental data. (Received April 30, 1968) (10) (11) (12) (13) (14) (15) (16) (17) REFERENCES (1) Schwartz, A.M., and Knowles, D.C., Frictional effects in human hair, J. Soc. Cosmetic Chemists 14,455-63 (1963). (2) Mills, C. M., Ester, V. C., and Henkin, H., Measurement of static charge on hair, Ibid., 7, 466-75 (1956). (3) Levy, J. B., Wakelin, J. H., Kauzmann, W. J., and Dillon, J. H., Relation of charge to frictional work in the static electrification of filaments, Textile Res. J., 28, 897-911 (1958). (4) Barber, R. G., and Posner, A.M., A method for studying the static electricity produced on hair by combing, Y. Soc. Cosmetic Chemists, 10, 236-46 (1959). (5) Waggoner, W. C., and Scott, G. V., Instrumental method for the determination of hair raspiness, Ibid., 17, 171-9 (1966). (6) Reese, G., Adsorption of amines on hair keratin, Fette, Seifen, Anstrichmittel, 68, 763-5 (1966). (7) Herd, J. K., and Marriott, R. H., The sorption of amino acids from shampoos on to hair, J. Soc. Cosmetic Chemists, 10, 272-9 (1959). (8) Nelson, M. F., and Stewart, D., The adsorption of N-acyl sarcosines on various protein materials, Ibid., 7, 122-31 (1956). (9) Karjala, S. A., Williamson, J. E., and Karler, A., Studies on the substantivity of collagen- derived polypeptides to human hair Ibid., 17, 513-24 (1966) The effect of pH on the sorption of collagen-derived peptides by hair, Ibid., 18,599-608 (1967). White, H. J., and Underwood, D. L., The use of radiotracers to study adsorption by hair, Ibid., 7, 198-204 (1956). Breuer, M. M., Binding of phenols by hair, J. Phys. Chem., 68, 2067-73 (1964). Idson, B., Adsorption to skin and hair, J. Soc. Cosmetic Chemists, 18, 91-108 (1967). Goldemberg, R. L., Hair coloring--modern formulation considerations, Ibid., 10, 291- 306 (1959). Underwood, D. L., Basic elements of dyeing human h air, Ibid., 12, 155-62 ( 1961 ). Wilmsmann, H. Relation between high molecular weight aromatic compounds and their penetration for human hair, Ibid., 12,490 (1961). Holmes, A. W., Diffusion processes in human hair, Ibid., 15,595-608 (1964). Flesch, P., Protection of hydrogen peroxide bleached hair with acid solutions, Proc. Sci. Sect. Toilet Goods Assoc., 32, 1-5 (1959).

152 JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS (18) (19) (20) (21) (22) (23) (24) (25) (26) (27) (28) (29) (ao) (31) (32) (33) (34) (35) (36) (37) (38) (39) (40) (41) (42) (43) (44) Laden, K., and Finkelstein, P., Studies concerning modification of ionic character of the hair, Am. Perfumer Cosmetics, 81, 39-42 (1966). Rieger, M., and Brechner, S., Studies on the adsorption of a simple dyestuff by hair, Proc. Sci. Sect. Toilet Goods Assoc., 34, 45-8 (1960). Steinhardt, J., and Zaiser, E. M., Combination of wool protein with cations and hydroxyl ions, J. Biol. Chem., 183, 789-802 (1950). Griffith, J. C., and Alexander, A. E., Equilibrium adsorption isotherms for wool/ detergent systems, J. Coll. Interf. Sci., 25, 311-21 (1967). Harris, J. C., Adsorption of surface-active agents by fibers, Textile Res. J., 18, 669-78 (1948). Swanston, K., and Palmer, R. C., The sorption of anionic detergents by wool, J. Soc. Dyers Colourists, 66, 632-8 (1950). Weatherburn, A. S., and Bayley, C. H., The sorption of synthetic surface-active com- pounds by textile fibers, Textile Res. Y., 22, 797-804 (1952). Scott, G. V., Spectrophotometric determination of cationic surfactants with Orange II, Anal. Chem., 40, 768-73 (1968). Speakman, J. B., and Smith, S. G., The structure of animal fibers in relation to acid dyeing, J. Soc. Dyers Colourists, 52, 121-35 (1936). Alexander, P., and Hudson, R. F., The kinetics of wool dyeing, Textile Res. J., 20, 481- 91 (1950). Medley, J. A., and Andrews, M. W., The effect of a surface barrier on uptake rates of dye into wool fibers, Ibid., 29, 398-403 (1959). Sagal, J., Acid and base binding behavior of white and pigmented human hair, Ibid., 35, 672-3 (1965). Steinhardt, J., and Harris, M., Combination of wool protein with acid and base, J. Res. Natl. Bur. Std., 24, 335-67 (1940). Ehrhardt, H., private communication. Vickerstaff, T., The Physical Chemistry of Dyeing, Interscience Publishers, Inc., New York, 1950, p. 119. Alexander, P., and Hudson, R. F., Wool--Its Chemistry and Physics, Reinhold Publishing Corp., New York, 1954, pp. 171-2, 240-2, 181. Valko, E. I., and Barnett, G., A study of the swelling of hair in mixed aqueous solvents, J. Soc. Cosmetic Chemists, 3, 108-17 (1952). Barnard, W. S., and White, H. J., The swelling of hair and a viscose rayon monofil in aqueous solutions, Textile Res. Y., 24, 695-704 (1954). Delmenico, J., and Peters, R. H., Application of the Donnan equilibrium to the distribu- tion of dye and inorganic ions between wool and solutions, Ibid., 35, 14-32 (1965). Alexander, P., and Charman, D. A., The kinetics of wool dyeing. Part II, The adsorp- tion of surface-active dyes by wool and other fibers, Ibid., 20, 761-70, (1950), Peters, R. H., Dyeing theories based on the latest research data, Ciba Rev. 1964• 2. Speakman, J. B., Stott, E., and Chang, H., Theory of milling II, J. Textile Inst., 24, 273-92T (1933). Zahn, H., Chemical processes in the bleaching of wool and human hair with hydrogen peroxide and peroxy acids, J. Soc. Cosmetic Chemists, 17, 687-701 (1966). Edman, W. W., and Marti, M. E., Properties of peroxide bleached hair, Ibid., 12, 133- 45 (1961). Klemm, E. J., Haefele, J. W., and Thomas, A. R., The swelling behavior of hair fibers in lithium bromide, Proc. Sci. Sect. Toilet Goods Assoc., 43, 7-13 (1965). Robbins, C. R., Infrared analysis of oxidized keratins, Textile Res. J., 37, 811-3 (1967). Harry, R., Modern Cosmeticology, Chemical Publishing Co., Inc., New York, 1962, p. 321.